I just picked up my rebuilt IP. Paid $561.63 for it. Seemed pretty cheap to me. Yesterday the shop called and asked me if the engine has been sitting in water. I said no, it has been running great with no problems until it started to stumble once it warmed up. The tech then told me the inside of the pump was covered in rust. He then said I should look into the rest of the system to check for water. I told him that I have driven the vehicle for 35,000 miles with out water ever coming out of the water separator. That I have replaced the filter almost every time I replace the fuel filter and only noticed a thick brown slime in the filters. I also dropped/cleaned the tanks and replaced the lift pump. I never found any rust just the brown slime in the pump and lines only, nothing in the tanks. No rust in them. The tech then said well, it should a HECK of a lot better then. I do have one question, I read the post in the tech articles from Mel. Before I pulled the IP, I stamped a mark across the housing and IP. Can I put the pump back at that mark and expect it to start and run well enough to get it to someone who has a the timing equipment?

 

i think if you put it back the way you found it it should start and run.... im not familiar with the sludge but it could have set in the lines and been pushed out.... it is very odd though.... and i have to say you drastically overpaid.... you could have got a pump from orielly and autozone for less. or pensecola diesel for even less than those places

Pensacola Fuel Injection | Worlds #1 Diesel Rebuilder - FORD 6.9L - 7.3L :: REBUILT FUEL INJECTION PUMPS

 

Line up the new IP's timing mark to the one on the timing gear cover and it should at least start.

Post install and initial start and run:
Turn it one mark's width to the passenger side if you notice it hard to start or smokes white when warm. Get a timing meter on it ASAP.

 

in my experience when you pull the pump and dont turn the engine over the rebuild guys has always put the pump back the way they got it , so if you put it back in the engine should start !

 

Rocket,

Is this the same exact pump you used as a core or is it a different one and they are rebuilding your core for someone else?

 

Yea, I doubt its actually rust. The brown stuff is likely the super-fine fraction of the brown sludge that gets past the filter, or the sludge picked up some rust fines from the system and transported them to the filter (the finest rust particles are EXTREMELY small).

Timing should be fine to start it and get it to a shop to time. Most important thing is to make sure it isn't too advanced (the cold timing advance should make a noticeable increase in rattle when given +12v) as the excess heat can and will fry your glow plugs. Some people get lucky and that timing works out fine for them, but for best power and efficiency, get it timed!

As for the price, you can always offer to trade the pump back for your $560 and buy one at Pensacola for $345!

 

I had them rebuild my pump. I explained that I want it back as I could not see the factory marks so I used a a small chisel and tapped a line across the pump to housing. Now that it is clean I can see the factory marks plus my mark. They stated they usually don't give back the same housing as the accelerator pump bore gets worn but he said he has put steel sleeves in them as the customer wanted to keep their housing. Before I took it in, I opened the top and looked into it. Everything had a coating on it that looked like rust but it was a thin coat more like a thick jelly consistency. It chipped off like lead paint does. My filters kept getting plugged up with a jelly like crap. This stuff looks like what happens when you get brake cleaner or tranny fluid on blue RTV. It was translucent. Maybe there was a lot of garbage in the tanks and I pumped it through the system as I used a lot of biodiesel and seafoam. I looked in to parts stores they want over $700 with no core. Here is AZ.http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-j0mzsZ8vddb. I think I got a better deal and I have my original pump.

 

Even if you get the same pump back, the timing is going to change. The new pump is going to pop the injectors at a higher pressure than the old one. If you have the old injectors, you are going to exaggerate the problem because the older, tired injectors will pop at a lower pressure than new ones. Pop pressure effects timing.

Someone must have had some fuel issues at some point. The inside of an IP should be clean as a whistle no matter how old it is. Something definitely went wrong at some point.

 

you have algae or have had it in your fuel system. Talk with gandalf on OB. It will ruin your new pump. And as for cheaper pumps, when a real pump shop rebuilds them they are in the 430.00 to 800.00 range, worst case if the head and rotor are bad. And as for the advance piston bore ,they should be honing the bore to the next oversize piston if needed. There are 4 oversizes IIRC
Line up your marks, it should run fine till you can get it timed.