I just recently purchased an xx-11-78 Lincoln Continental Mark V that has been tarp kept and parked for the past 10+- years. It has 63K miles on it, and is having issues getting back to life. The gas has been 95% drained and replaced with premium, some of the fuel-lines has been replaced, the fuel pump has been replaced, and the carb has had a kit put on it 3 times(sheesh) It started and ran(purred like a kitten from what my BYM father-in-law tells me) somewhat, enough for a ride to the corner store, then back to the garage, where it started to run rather rough, then it sorta died X.X it now refuses to start back up. it has been sea-foamed, some lucas fuel additive to help clean it out+lube it, its getting gas, plenty of spark(one confirmed cable anyway, what a zap). It just wont turn over, even with started fluid...My thought is maybe some crudded up valve/lifters/rockers all that good stuff, so on Saturday I'm going to take the covers off and take a look, and try and clean that i can get to. It has also had an oil change, but im not sure when it was sea-foamed, before or after the OC, and how long he let it run through...30miles is what i prefer to take it to.

What i need HELP! with is maybe some advise to the above issues...but more so with the following info taken from the sticker on the crankcase cover...see, I also own a 78 LTD with the same engine, but its way different, its so confusing.

Engine Family 5.6M/6.6"D" (2x124)
EGR/AIR/CATALYST/PCV 6.6 400CID
Evaporative family is TN

WHAT DOES "D" MEAN? HOW ABOUT (2x124)? SO I HAVE A FULLY 400 6.6L RIGHT >.>? WTH does TN stand for? and what is the evaporative family stuff on these old cars? the net kinda failed me...please help, i know I'm a total newbie and i dunno if all this came off as help-worthy, but im sooooo LOST!!

 

Could be alot of reasons...seems you're certain about the fuel supply, then I'd suggest a complete check of the ignition system. Most old ford guys would probably pop on a different ingition control box first thing...then you'll want to locate/check the inline fuse that relays to the ignition switch. Quick check here would be turn the key to ACC, and then check for voltage at the connector to ignition bobrainbox) or even to the coil. then check the voltage at the coil (10.5V minimum), and then test primary and secondary circuits of your coil. Check power supply to the distributor pick up, and Ohm out all the plug wires (500 Ohms per inch or less is passable). Inspect under the cap and also the diode on the button. HTH u find the prob.

The only way a mouse could beat a ford is to chew on the wires.

 

well, i took all the plugs out and cleaned them with a wire brush and some carb cleaner, plus i replaced the ignition brain box, dont think the old one was bad just yet, but after coaxing it enough i got it to run very rough with alot of backfiring through the exhaust. could only keep it running by giving it alot of gas. lots of rust/chunks in the muffler/cats trying to get it running better then going to replace the exhaust system cus its baaaad

 

Might try dropping the exhaust system- maybe the cats are totally clogged.

 

if there was rust or foreign debris in the jets, cleaners may not remove them. Might pay to pull the jets and clean them.

 

Your timing is way off or you swapped some plug wires. Double check and make sure your wires are correct then start the car and adjust the dizzy to see if you can get it to run a little better....I'm betting your timing chain is stretched enough to let the motor jump a few teeth.

 

Do a compression test on all cylinders. I seen some engine stop for so long that the rings get stuck on the piston causing poor compression. If the compression is low, drop a bottle cap of diesel on each spark plug hole and let sit there for 24 hours. Change the oil and retry. My freind has done that to is 400 2 yeas ago and still beating that 400, i mean Beating.