For what it's worth, I'm running Centric re-man front calipers, Centric Cryoed Power slots, Hawk LTS pads up front, and stock rears. I have never had any problems other than regular maint. type issues. I will say that I hate the Hawk pads and would recommend EBC. I have a set of Green Stuff's waiting to go in.

 

Have you checked to make sure the rears are "activating" as well. If not, that would eat up your front brakes.

Cant beat "BREMBO" brakes, but not made for trucks.

I wonder if the new/er ford trucks with the 20'z have bigger calipers/brakes, then are SD came with?

 

I've changed out both fronts at least 3 times and the rears twice each. Master cylinder? I don't see how it would be that? Jeff what size tires are you running? Like I said in previous post the one that locked up on me the other day was the same one that locked up on me before I did the new lines so maybe it was weak because of the first time???? I run ceramic pads at all 4 corners

 

Is your wife OK, or does she work there?

 

I'm running 37x13.50-16

 

with the lift you have and stock length lines they had to do some bending to the bracket where the hard line attaches to the rubber line. i would look over the hard line real close and make sure it doesnt have a bind in it.

 

Most lift kits "relocate" the bracket down to compensate.

 

My wife was having heart complications., hence the hurry and not careing about the brakes. I will check all the hard lines tomorrow to make sure everything looks in order. Jeff if youve never had a problem I shouldnt in theory either. There something going on and im getting tired of it and want a perminate fix. If all looks good to me should I take it some where and have someone look at it?

 

Do you guys think I should have changed that caliber that stuck when I changed the lines? Or should I have done what I did change the line free the caliber and call it good? Was it my fault this time?

 

Know one should have to change there brakes that much. Check the hard lines all the way back to the master cyclinder. I hope your wife is okay!!! I said master cyclinder only if both sides are locking up. You can rebuild your own caliber if you know how. Its cheaper and may be you can see where its sticking. There's only the pins, Caliber and lines, if you do it again flush really good and bleed. Good luck and if you can't fix it then yes take it to a brake shop and have them check it out diffenantly. Chet

 

This is 90% of your problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ceramic brakes may be OK for some other application - BUT NOT OUR TRUCKS. You need a better brake pad, period. I STRONGLY, I say STRONGLY recommend you get a set of EBC Yellowstuff pads (Call Clay at Riffraff) and a new set of rotors if the current ones are heat stressed or warped. I will personally promise you will immediately be able to tell the difference between them and the junk you have now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I use O'Riellys 'lifetime warranty' rotors (free replacement if they warp) and have ZERO issues with warped rotors - unlike before I discovered 'good' pads have more to do with preventing warped rotors than anything else...

If it is actually your calipers 'locking up' - I suspect the HEAT from those anemic pads you are using is whats killing them. But I would be more curious to know what you've been lubing the caliper slide pins with. All I use anymore is dielectric grease. NEVER use anti-seize, bearing grease, etc!!!!!!!

Also, once those calipers get smoked like that - you MUST change the brake fluid, 100%. I usually just open the bleeder screws on the calipers and let the fluid gravity-bleed (keeping the reservoir full) until all the fluid is fresh and clean. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, and the heat/cool cycle from HOT fluid will draw in moisture. Brake fluid + water = corrosive to carbon steel and will totally eat calipers as well as beat on ABS components. I recommend CHANGING brake fluid every couple years or more for this reason (and its CHEAP!!)

 

I would have never guessed that it could have been the pads. I've never heard to ceramic pads causing so many problems. What's the difference between the green and yellow stuff? Fluid has been changes two times in the past year. I'm gonna get the new pads and change my caliber again. If the problem doesn't happen again with in a month or so I'll get the slotted rotors for the added security.

 

Yellow Stuff-
Yellowstuff Truck & SUV Brake Pads Product Index

Green Stuff-
Greenstuff Brake Pads Products Index

 

I didnt know ceramic pads are not good for our trucks. I've had a set sitting on my shelf for 3 yrs now because my orginial pads are still good. Now im kinda thinking about not installing them now. Man I learn somthing new on here everyday. Thanks for this great info.

 

Yeah, just think how many miles/yrs you got out of your stock brakes? Might as well, keep/replace what you know works.