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ive got 270k on truck with three or four sets of pads and on my second set of rotors and one rear caliper i think that's pretty good and these are about the best brakes on anything ive driven ! oh and one set of pins in the back
Man I wish I knew.... Like I said I dont wait to stop and then stomp on them, I let the engine do the slowing down for me as much as possible. Ive never heard of this problem with anyones truck let alone thought I would have the problem.
I put new lines on the truck and so far no problems, I only drove about 5 miles but well see what happens next week on my way to work... If there is any
John are you using long enough lines for your lift?
Thats what I found odd... I use the same size as stock. When I called orileys I had the guy there measure the stock length and I measured mine and they were the same. Theres no binding on anything even at full articulation theres plenty of slack in the hose it works
Thats what I found odd... I use the same size as stock. When I called orileys I had the guy there measure the stock length and I measured mine and they were the same. Theres no binding on anything even at full articulation theres plenty of slack in the hose it works
Actually sounds like who everput the lift in may have extended the steel lines to make it work. But I could be wrong, according to my wife nothing new there
Actually sounds like who everput the lift in may have extended the steel lines to make it work. But I could be wrong, according to my wife nothing new there
You saying that scares me because they didnt do anything else right! The only things I havent fixed yet are the brakes for sure and the rust at the bottom of the doors. I sand blasted them and found holes in the inner metal that I could fit my hand threw!! The out side metal isnt saveable on the two front doors, so I need to get both front doors, luckly I can save the rear doors. So far the only thing that the previous owner has been good at is BONDO
The only thing my wife says is get something brand new! Untill I remind her thats an $800 a month payment on top of PMS and I get a look like this...
Well put the new lines on last wednesday or thursday and guess what... Stuck caliber and warped rotor yesterday when I had to rush to the ER for my wife!! You talk about one hell of a ride trying to get there in a hurry the realizing the caliber was stuck.... scarrrrry. I do feel that I may be to blame for this one though, when I put the lines on I freed up the caliber and called it good hopeing that I wouldnt have to replace it again because it didnt get that hot last time (same one as last time). What do you guys think do I still have an issue or was it my fault?
The way I look at it is theres guys running 38s and 40s who have never had a problem, why should I. But... I would love to upgrade the calibers where can I get a better set thats not gonna brake the bank? What do you guys recommend for rotors? Drilled and slotted? Im willing to throw money at the truck because I cant stand the thought of buying a new truck or driving anything else at that! I miss the truck when I dont drive it for a few days but I cant have this problem either
If not stovl slotted not drilled. I beleive they will last longer with good pads. Just the one side sticking . Its hard to believe if you changed it all out already w/lines. If it where both I'd say change the master cyclinder.
Chet