B4 Plumbing the added Gas Tank
#1
B4 Plumbing the added Gas Tank
Embarrassed to say I more than a year ago mounted a 50 gallon barrel style gas tank on the passenger side of 1955 C600 Ethyl *The* Tool Truck... what is embarrassing is that it has only been hung...its never been plumbed. This gas tank purchased off of EBay is a military surplus item and it appears to be of great quality etc. I hung it on the passenger side because the other side is where my 8kw Diesel generator sits...I figure the weight will be evened out with the tank across from the generator. The truck leans to the left now without any gas in the tank.
I am seeking suggestions on how to plumb this tank in. I have the Y block 272 with 2 barrel teapot carburetor and factory style mechanical fuel pump with the vacuum assembly as part of its function for the windshield wiper motor. Once the added tank is plumbed, I would like to use the 21(?) gallon original tank located under the driver steps as the fuel tank for the diesel generator positioned on that same side. Currently the generator is using a portable fuel cell. This is a farmer type fix operation at this point for the generator. It has functioned but its time to get things right. I will be doing suspension spring work soon. I want to know where the weight sits and the big gas tank is part of that spring equation.
To Address 1. I do NOT have a functioning gas gauge. I believe the factory tank sending unit is bad but have not verified the gauge works really either. I always knew I would be adding the big tank so I just guess when to get gas. The odometer and speedo also don't work(the speedo needle was bouncing badly on the test drive after the box was installed and before we could get out of traffic the cable broke...none of this has been addressed). I carry a full 5 gallon can in the Store...and have had to use it a few times...opps. So I will need guidance : the added 50 gallon tank will need to have a sending unit compatible with the factory gauge. 2. I would like to add a functioning electric fuel pump as a backup to the mechanical one. Advice is appreciated on what to use for a quality electric pump and if a particular type of pump is better (pusher style?)...brand preferences?? 3. I would like to plumb in a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and a regulator to make sure the electric pump isnt going to have the wrong pressure for my teapot carburetor... 4. should the electric fuel pump, pressure regulator and gauge all be mounted close to the tank or should the gauge and regulator be mounted closer to the carburetor? I would like to keep the underhood clean and as original as possible but I also want function. 5. What's the best way to tie the two fuel pumps together? 6.Teflon Coated or just plain old Steel gas lines? 7. Teflon tape or something else on all the threaded sealing points? 8. Other things to consider?
barrel style gas tank needs to be plumbed in.
I am seeking suggestions on how to plumb this tank in. I have the Y block 272 with 2 barrel teapot carburetor and factory style mechanical fuel pump with the vacuum assembly as part of its function for the windshield wiper motor. Once the added tank is plumbed, I would like to use the 21(?) gallon original tank located under the driver steps as the fuel tank for the diesel generator positioned on that same side. Currently the generator is using a portable fuel cell. This is a farmer type fix operation at this point for the generator. It has functioned but its time to get things right. I will be doing suspension spring work soon. I want to know where the weight sits and the big gas tank is part of that spring equation.
To Address 1. I do NOT have a functioning gas gauge. I believe the factory tank sending unit is bad but have not verified the gauge works really either. I always knew I would be adding the big tank so I just guess when to get gas. The odometer and speedo also don't work(the speedo needle was bouncing badly on the test drive after the box was installed and before we could get out of traffic the cable broke...none of this has been addressed). I carry a full 5 gallon can in the Store...and have had to use it a few times...opps. So I will need guidance : the added 50 gallon tank will need to have a sending unit compatible with the factory gauge. 2. I would like to add a functioning electric fuel pump as a backup to the mechanical one. Advice is appreciated on what to use for a quality electric pump and if a particular type of pump is better (pusher style?)...brand preferences?? 3. I would like to plumb in a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and a regulator to make sure the electric pump isnt going to have the wrong pressure for my teapot carburetor... 4. should the electric fuel pump, pressure regulator and gauge all be mounted close to the tank or should the gauge and regulator be mounted closer to the carburetor? I would like to keep the underhood clean and as original as possible but I also want function. 5. What's the best way to tie the two fuel pumps together? 6.Teflon Coated or just plain old Steel gas lines? 7. Teflon tape or something else on all the threaded sealing points? 8. Other things to consider?
barrel style gas tank needs to be plumbed in.
#2
#4
MIXERMAN....gas fill inlet is a screw on heavy brass type maybe 3"- 31/2" diameter cap. Non Vented. I was told by the company who built this tank that it could be used for either gas or diesel as I recall..Somewhere I have a picture of the welded tag that shows the manufacturer etc...I contacted the manufacturer at the time to ask questions regarding fuel it could hold...They never offered any suggestions about venting etc and I was clear with them what I wanted to do...Did I blow it buy installing a non vented tank? .I bought this STEEL tank when I got the truck in 2016 just before joining here. It sat for a year and a half before I hung it. I have been living with the factory 20 gallon tank for all this time...For the most part my driving is within an 8 mile radius mostly city so every 3rd day to get fuel....I want to eliminate that....too much time at the pump...people in cars dont act very nice to me in my truck sometimes pulling in front, taking a long time to move away etc..... I know all the threaded areas for connecting lines etc are on top. Im not sure about the sending unit area.There are 3 flange type threaded holes for lines etc and one 1 1/2" (+/-) diameter screwed down cover over some other inlet in that top area....as you can see...
#5
https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/49/393.67
"Fuel withdrawal fittings. Except for diesel fuel tanks, the fittings through which fuel is withdrawn from a fuel tank must be located above the normal level of fuel in the tank when the tank is full."
It should be noted that most of 49CFR is written in blood.
#6
MIXERMAN....gas fill inlet is a screw on heavy brass type maybe 3"- 31/2" diameter cap. Non Vented. I was told by the company who built this tank that it could be used for either gas or diesel as I recall..Somewhere I have a picture of the welded tag that shows the manufacturer etc...I contacted the manufacturer at the time to ask questions regarding fuel it could hold...They never offered any suggestions about venting etc and I was clear with them what I wanted to do...Did I blow it buy installing a non vented tank? .I bought this STEEL tank when I got the truck in 2016 just before joining here. It sat for a year and a half before I hung it. I have been living with the factory 20 gallon tank for all this time...For the most part my driving is within an 8 mile radius mostly city so every 3rd day to get fuel....I want to eliminate that....too much time at the pump...people in cars dont act very nice to me in my truck sometimes pulling in front, taking a long time to move away etc..... I know all the threaded areas for connecting lines etc are on top. Im not sure about the sending unit area.There are 3 flange type threaded holes for lines etc and one 1 1/2" (+/-) diameter screwed down cover over some other inlet in that top area....as you can see...
#7
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#8
I hung it on the passenger side because the other side is where my 8kw Diesel generator sits...I figure the weight will be evened out with the tank across from the generator. The truck leans to the left now without any gas in the tank.
Figure 9-1/2 lbs./gallon including the weight of the tank for the new tank.
I am seeking suggestions on how to plumb this tank in.
You will need a 5/16" minimum pickup tube/pipe that extends to 3/4" from the bottom, cut at 45 degrees. You can use copper or steel tubing. As stated in 49CFR threaded fittings are to be of the Dryseal tapered NPT type.
I have the Y block 272 with 2 barrel teapot carburetor and factory style mechanical fuel pump with the vacuum assembly as part of its function for the windshield wiper motor. Once the added tank is plumbed, I would like to use the 21(?) gallon original tank located under the driver steps as the fuel tank for the diesel generator positioned on that same side. Currently the generator is using a portable fuel cell. This is a farmer type fix operation at this point for the generator. It has functioned but its time to get things right. I will be doing suspension spring work soon. I want to know where the weight sits and the big gas tank is part of that spring equation.
Figure on 9-1/2 lbs./gallon including the tank for the new tank.
1. I do NOT have a functioning gas gauge.
If you can get it to function you can use it for your gen set, and install an aftermarket fuel gauge for the new tank.
2. I would like to add a functioning electric fuel pump as a backup to the mechanical one. Advice is appreciated on what to use for a quality electric pump and if a particular type of pump is better (pusher style?)...brand preferences??
This is my recommendation, others may differ. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...4aApj6EALw_wcB
3. I would like to plumb in a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and a regulator to make sure the electric pump isn't going to have the wrong pressure for my teapot carburetor...
The gauge should not be in the cab, for obvious reasons.
4. should the electric fuel pump, pressure regulator and gauge all be mounted close to the tank or should the gauge and regulator be mounted closer to the carburetor? I would like to keep the underhood clean and as original as possible but I also want function.
The electric fuel pump should be mounted inline and as close to the suction side of the OEM fuel pump as practicable. The OEM fuel pumps have no problem drawing through them. The pressure regulator should go between the OEM fuel pump and tha carburetor
5. What's the best way to tie the two fuel pumps together?
Tubing or a hose jumper.
6.Teflon Coated or just plain old Steel gas lines?
Steel or type K copper (not the K-Mart variety).
7. Teflon tape or something else on all the threaded sealing points?
Anything that is gasoline and vibration resistant.
Figure 9-1/2 lbs./gallon including the weight of the tank for the new tank.
I am seeking suggestions on how to plumb this tank in.
You will need a 5/16" minimum pickup tube/pipe that extends to 3/4" from the bottom, cut at 45 degrees. You can use copper or steel tubing. As stated in 49CFR threaded fittings are to be of the Dryseal tapered NPT type.
I have the Y block 272 with 2 barrel teapot carburetor and factory style mechanical fuel pump with the vacuum assembly as part of its function for the windshield wiper motor. Once the added tank is plumbed, I would like to use the 21(?) gallon original tank located under the driver steps as the fuel tank for the diesel generator positioned on that same side. Currently the generator is using a portable fuel cell. This is a farmer type fix operation at this point for the generator. It has functioned but its time to get things right. I will be doing suspension spring work soon. I want to know where the weight sits and the big gas tank is part of that spring equation.
Figure on 9-1/2 lbs./gallon including the tank for the new tank.
1. I do NOT have a functioning gas gauge.
If you can get it to function you can use it for your gen set, and install an aftermarket fuel gauge for the new tank.
2. I would like to add a functioning electric fuel pump as a backup to the mechanical one. Advice is appreciated on what to use for a quality electric pump and if a particular type of pump is better (pusher style?)...brand preferences??
This is my recommendation, others may differ. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...4aApj6EALw_wcB
3. I would like to plumb in a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and a regulator to make sure the electric pump isn't going to have the wrong pressure for my teapot carburetor...
The gauge should not be in the cab, for obvious reasons.
4. should the electric fuel pump, pressure regulator and gauge all be mounted close to the tank or should the gauge and regulator be mounted closer to the carburetor? I would like to keep the underhood clean and as original as possible but I also want function.
The electric fuel pump should be mounted inline and as close to the suction side of the OEM fuel pump as practicable. The OEM fuel pumps have no problem drawing through them. The pressure regulator should go between the OEM fuel pump and tha carburetor
5. What's the best way to tie the two fuel pumps together?
Tubing or a hose jumper.
6.Teflon Coated or just plain old Steel gas lines?
Steel or type K copper (not the K-Mart variety).
7. Teflon tape or something else on all the threaded sealing points?
Anything that is gasoline and vibration resistant.
1234567890
#9
#10
Embarrassed to say I more than a year ago mounted a 50 gallon barrel style gas tank on the passenger side of 1955 C600 Ethyl *The* Tool Truck... what is embarrassing is that it has only been hung...its never been plumbed. This gas tank purchased off of EBay is a military surplus item and it appears to be of great quality etc. I hung it on the passenger side because the other side is where my 8kw Diesel generator sits...I figure the weight will be evened out with the tank across from the generator. The truck leans to the left now without any gas in the tank.
I am seeking suggestions on how to plumb this tank in. I have the Y block 272 with 2 barrel teapot carburetor and factory style mechanical fuel pump with the vacuum assembly as part of its function for the windshield wiper motor. Once the added tank is plumbed, I would like to use the 21(?) gallon original tank located under the driver steps as the fuel tank for the diesel generator positioned on that same side. Currently the generator is using a portable fuel cell. This is a farmer type fix operation at this point for the generator. It has functioned but its time to get things right. I will be doing suspension spring work soon. I want to know where the weight sits and the big gas tank is part of that spring equation.
To Address 1. I do NOT have a functioning gas gauge. I believe the factory tank sending unit is bad but have not verified the gauge works really either. I always knew I would be adding the big tank so I just guess when to get gas. The odometer and speedo also don't work(the speedo needle was bouncing badly on the test drive after the box was installed and before we could get out of traffic the cable broke...none of this has been addressed). I carry a full 5 gallon can in the Store...and have had to use it a few times...opps. So I will need guidance : the added 50 gallon tank will need to have a sending unit compatible with the factory gauge. 2. I would like to add a functioning electric fuel pump as a backup to the mechanical one. Advice is appreciated on what to use for a quality electric pump and if a particular type of pump is better (pusher style?)...brand preferences?? 3. I would like to plumb in a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and a regulator to make sure the electric pump isnt going to have the wrong pressure for my teapot carburetor... 4. should the electric fuel pump, pressure regulator and gauge all be mounted close to the tank or should the gauge and regulator be mounted closer to the carburetor? I would like to keep the underhood clean and as original as possible but I also want function. 5. What's the best way to tie the two fuel pumps together? 6.Teflon Coated or just plain old Steel gas lines? 7. Teflon tape or something else on all the threaded sealing points? 8. Other things to consider?
barrel style gas tank needs to be plumbed in.
I am seeking suggestions on how to plumb this tank in. I have the Y block 272 with 2 barrel teapot carburetor and factory style mechanical fuel pump with the vacuum assembly as part of its function for the windshield wiper motor. Once the added tank is plumbed, I would like to use the 21(?) gallon original tank located under the driver steps as the fuel tank for the diesel generator positioned on that same side. Currently the generator is using a portable fuel cell. This is a farmer type fix operation at this point for the generator. It has functioned but its time to get things right. I will be doing suspension spring work soon. I want to know where the weight sits and the big gas tank is part of that spring equation.
To Address 1. I do NOT have a functioning gas gauge. I believe the factory tank sending unit is bad but have not verified the gauge works really either. I always knew I would be adding the big tank so I just guess when to get gas. The odometer and speedo also don't work(the speedo needle was bouncing badly on the test drive after the box was installed and before we could get out of traffic the cable broke...none of this has been addressed). I carry a full 5 gallon can in the Store...and have had to use it a few times...opps. So I will need guidance : the added 50 gallon tank will need to have a sending unit compatible with the factory gauge. 2. I would like to add a functioning electric fuel pump as a backup to the mechanical one. Advice is appreciated on what to use for a quality electric pump and if a particular type of pump is better (pusher style?)...brand preferences?? 3. I would like to plumb in a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and a regulator to make sure the electric pump isnt going to have the wrong pressure for my teapot carburetor... 4. should the electric fuel pump, pressure regulator and gauge all be mounted close to the tank or should the gauge and regulator be mounted closer to the carburetor? I would like to keep the underhood clean and as original as possible but I also want function. 5. What's the best way to tie the two fuel pumps together? 6.Teflon Coated or just plain old Steel gas lines? 7. Teflon tape or something else on all the threaded sealing points? 8. Other things to consider?
barrel style gas tank needs to be plumbed in.
Why this winter I put on the under hood radiator rubber that I bought in 1999.
#11
#12
Yes, I knew that it does not apply to trucks under 10,000 GVWR, but we weren't discussing the small trucks. It would however, apply to hot rods over 10,000 GVWR used on public roads. On a farm or other private property you can do just about whatever you want.
#14
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