glow plugs?
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glow plugs?
well I started my truck this morning and had white smoke so I tested the glow plugs and had two of them reed a infinit connctent could that mean the glow plug is bad or one of the wires in the wiring harness be broken.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Could be either one. What year truck do you have? Some of the early ones had issues with the glow plug wires rubbing against a push rod, which would short out that wire.
Ever pulled a valve cover before?
Ever pulled a valve cover before?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
So you shouldn't have the old harness then.
Pulling valve covers is the same as any other vehicle, just a bunch of stuff in the way. Some swivel joints and extensions and you should be fine. The valve cover gasket is re-useable. No RTV needed. The only thing to really watch for is the nut holding the dipstick in place. The nut only holds the dipstick, there is another nut on the stud below the dipstick flange. If you try to loosen that nut and the dipstick starts to twist, stop. Put a back up wrench on the nut below or grab the dipstick flange with some channel locks so you don't ruin your dipstick tube.
Pulling valve covers is the same as any other vehicle, just a bunch of stuff in the way. Some swivel joints and extensions and you should be fine. The valve cover gasket is re-useable. No RTV needed. The only thing to really watch for is the nut holding the dipstick in place. The nut only holds the dipstick, there is another nut on the stud below the dipstick flange. If you try to loosen that nut and the dipstick starts to twist, stop. Put a back up wrench on the nut below or grab the dipstick flange with some channel locks so you don't ruin your dipstick tube.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
What brand? Please don't say Autolite. We've had too many stories about autolite and several aftermarket glow plugs where the tip swells up and breaks off in the head when go to remove them next time.
As long as you've got the valve covers off, you might as well do some other PM work while you're there. Ford sells some shims for the UVCH connector you can use, or you can trim the top off a quarter like this
and slide it inside the connector like this to keep it from coming unplugged on you later.
Also check the torque on the lower injector hold down bolts (circled in blue) to 120 in lbs and the rocker arm pedestal bolts (circled in red) to 20 ft lbs.
As long as you've got the valve covers off, you might as well do some other PM work while you're there. Ford sells some shims for the UVCH connector you can use, or you can trim the top off a quarter like this
and slide it inside the connector like this to keep it from coming unplugged on you later.
Also check the torque on the lower injector hold down bolts (circled in blue) to 120 in lbs and the rocker arm pedestal bolts (circled in red) to 20 ft lbs.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
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What brand? Please don't say Autolite. We've had too many stories about autolite and several aftermarket glow plugs where the tip swells up and breaks off in the head when go to remove them next time.
As long as you've got the valve covers off, you might as well do some other PM work while you're there. Ford sells some shims for the UVCH connector you can use, or you can trim the top off a quarter like this
and slide it inside the connector like this to keep it from coming unplugged on you later.
Also check the torque on the lower injector hold down bolts (circled in blue) to 120 in lbs and the rocker arm pedestal bolts (circled in red) to 20 ft lbs.
As long as you've got the valve covers off, you might as well do some other PM work while you're there. Ford sells some shims for the UVCH connector you can use, or you can trim the top off a quarter like this
and slide it inside the connector like this to keep it from coming unplugged on you later.
Also check the torque on the lower injector hold down bolts (circled in blue) to 120 in lbs and the rocker arm pedestal bolts (circled in red) to 20 ft lbs.
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New User
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i bought motorcraft glow plugs, and yeah your right I might as well do some pm work. thanks again for all the help and any advice is greatly appriated
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these are sweet...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
More or less. There's a spring type clamp you can see on the side of the pedestal, there's a little ball under it, you need to rotate the crank until the mark on the damper is at the 11:00 position, or rotate the engine for each cylinder (11:00 for all is easier), and remember copper side up when you re-install. (different color ends on the push rods)
Lead Driver
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More or less. There's a spring type clamp you can see on the side of the pedestal, there's a little ball under it, you need to rotate the crank until the mark on the damper is at the 11:00 position, or rotate the engine for each cylinder (11:00 for all is easier), and remember copper side up when you re-install. (different color ends on the push rods)
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
Roll the damper to 11 first, then do them all. Unless you've got a reason to, I'd stick with the stock ones from Ford / International, and unless you've got a reason to pull them, I'd leave them alone. It's not like the metal gets weak from the engine running, but you might want to ask some of the guys who are more into the heavy mods for their opinion.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
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Roll the damper to 11 first, then do them all. Unless you've got a reason to, I'd stick with the stock ones from Ford / International, and unless you've got a reason to pull them, I'd leave them alone. It's not like the metal gets weak from the engine running, but you might want to ask some of the guys who are more into the heavy mods for their opinion.
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From: Kiowa CO
Glow Plug Install 10-10 pictures from trucks photos on webshots
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