Truck is a 1985 F150 with an emissions-stripped, duraspark II rebuilt 302.

Motorcraft 2150 with leaky throttle bores (both sides). The throttle linkages are all loose and worn, etc. Ventury assembly has been bend out of shape, etc.

So, I need suggestions on a good, dependable, relatively fuel-efficient carb to replace the 2150 with. I really don't want to spend all the time tinkering with it; I just want it to run good. While diagnosing this carb (took me about a year coupled with all the times I gave up) I learned a lot... enough to get tired of it! The darn thing would leak sometimes and not others - I guess it's just how the throttle shaft happened to fall with every blip of the throttle.

Anyway, thoughts on a simple, efficient, easy to care for carb?

The engine is stock and the tranny is an AOD with the shift arm hooked to the carb.

This is probably one of those generic questions that's been asked a hundred times - I'm just so worn out from this process. Time for me to just be told what to do like a monkey.

 

I have the 85 with a 351 ho 4barrell . my motorcraft (holley) had about the same problems. so i threw on a edelbrock 650cfm and it has improved performance and im not always having to tinker with it. Fuel mileage im not sure of but it has to be better because im not leaking fuel all the time.

 

There isn't an aftermarket carburetor out there that is more simple, dependable, and fuel efficient than the Motorcraft 2150 your truck has on it now. If your carburetor is beyond a rebuild, I would highly suggest finding another Motorcraft 2150 in better shape and rebuilding it instead. All the gaskets on this carburetor are above fuel level (no leaks), they have annular discharge boosters (better fuel mileage and performance), and the hot air choke (better driveability in cold weather) are some of the features that make the Motorcraft 2150 carburetors some of the BEST out there.

This is another VERY IMPORTANT reason why I suggest the Motorcraft 2150. With an AOD transmission, you would need to also buy a throttle linkage corrector bracket to bolt to the throttle lever if you decide to get an aftermarket Edelbrock or Holley carburetor. If you don't, the AOD will get pulled out of adjustment every time you drive it. Out of adjustment AOD = burned up AOD.

 

Thanks Lariat. I don't have anything against the 2150 and if that is the best in your (and others') opinion, then I'll go for it. Lots of praise for this carb for the reasons you mentioned.

Would you have any suggestions on what year, etc I should order one for, given my setup? I want to just go to Advance or Rock Auto and buy one. I don't want a used one - I'm afraid the shaft will be worn and something else will be wrong with it - I want a reman'd or new one that's ready to go.

Have you ever heard of Pony Carbs? I wonder if their $500 re-engineered 2150's are worth the price.

 

I have always used direct replacements for simplicity.

 

I'm not sure the differences between a Motorcraft 2150 and an Autolite 2100, but if there isn't a bunch of goofy emissions design into a 2150 you should be fine. If I was looking for a replacement I'd just throw an Autoplite 2100 on it. They're simple and reliable. If the 2150 is not a smog carb, then that should be fine too.

Personally I think you'd be best off, putting a 4v intake on there, either factory iron/aluminum (cheap on CL or junkyard if you can find one) or an Edelbrock Performer, along with either a 600 CFM Holley 4160.

 

This is what I was told by a rebuilder about using a 2100:

In order to utilize an Autolite 2100 carburetor you would need to have your distributor re-curved for optimum performance. Another obstacle that will have to be overcome is the linkage, as your current linkage will not hook up without major changes and/or modifications.

 

Distributor recurve is only for optimal performance and should be done anyway, especially when removing emissions equipment. It comes down to a lot fair amount of trial error and track time (or dyno time) to get it dialed in.

The linkage, you'd have to get creative with. I'm not familiar with AOD throttle linkages. You'd need to get the same ratio of throttle opening to TV valve cable pull as the factory 2150 linkage.

 

The Autolite 2100 is pretty much the same carburetor as the Motorcraft 2150 except for a few minor differences. For one, the Motorcraft 2150 has the nipple on the fuel bowl to hook up to the charcoal canister. Secondly, the choke pull off is located on the passenger's side of the 2150, and on the driver's side on the 2100. But most important of all, the throttle arm is shaped differently for models with the AOD transmission. Because the AOD wasn't available when the Autolite 2100's were around, the throttle arm was redesigned for the Motorcraft 2150s to accommodate the AOD transmission. The throttle valve rod (T.V. rod) your truck has on it now directly controls the transmission line pressure from your carburetor to the AOD. If you get an Autolite 2100, you are going to have to also get an aftermarket throttle valve cable to replace the stock T.V. rod your truck has now. The stock T.V. rod will not hook up to the older Autolite 2100. And that means you are going to have to set your transmission pressure all over again.

If your current Motorcraft 2150 is beyond a rebuild, your cheapest bet would be to exchange it for another rebuilt model at your local NAPA store. Since the Duraspark ignition and the Motorcraft 2150 is incorrect for the 1985 model year, you would need to specify a replacement carburetor for a 1983 F150 with an AOD transmission. If you get the correct carburetor, the throttle arm will be the same as the one you have now for the T.V. rod connection. As long as you have a distributor from a 1980 - 1983 F150, and you still have the EGR valve, you shouldn't have to re-curve it with this carburetor. If the EGR was removed or if you decide to with the Autolite 2100, you will need to re-curve your distributor as it would not be calibrated to work with an EGR.

Warning: The re-manufactured carburetors you can get at auto parts stores are a crap-shot at best, so while you are there, I would suggest you get a complete rebuild kit for it. A good kit shouldn't cost any more than about $25. Take it home and completely rebuild the "remanufactured" carburetor you just bought. These are very simple to rebuild, and this will give you a chance to inspect it thoroughly and know that it was rebuilt right. You may be surprised at what you find. I suppose you may get lucky and get a good carburetor out of the box. Judging from other people's experiences on this site, that hardly ever happens.

As for Pony Carburetors, I have found that people are either extremely pleased or extremely disappointed with their service. If you have the money and plan to keep your truck, they do offer a good product, as they specialize in the Autolite 2100/4100 carburetors and the Motorcraft 2150. I actually purchased an Autolite 4100 from them a few years ago to replace my own Motorcraft 2150 because I made the switch to a 4-barrel carburetor, and I couldn't be happier with mine. They are expensive though, and I had to get an aftermarket Lokar T.V. cable in order to use my AOD transmission because the throttle arm is shaped differently and will not accept the stock T.V. rod.

 

Do you think the NAPA ones would need a rebuild too? Just seems really redundant, but incompetence on a mass scale doesn't surprise me anymore.

I did rebuild this one - that's how I found the bent parts but being my first carb, I really didn't know if it would hurt anything or not. Still don't - but I know that leaky shaft is causing major problems.

The EGR is plated off... no idea if the dist was 'recurved' or not. Not sure I want to tackle that!

Do you still think I should use an '83? I have no idea what the dist came out of, nor the carb for that matter. The thing was mutated when I got it (it was my grandpa's and he let an old shadetree guy keep it going).

 

Maybe, maybe not. Your statement above is right on the money as to why I suggested a rebuild kit.

A working carburetor shouldn't have bent parts. From what you described, your carburetor has been damaged. If that is the case, you probably need another one.

You may not have to tackle that. It is obvious from your description that your '85 model has been changed quite a bit. It's hard to say what you have exactly. All stock Duraspark distrubutors for small blocks would have been calibrated to run with EGR, so there is a good chance the distributor was not re-curved. You should be able to drive it without re-curving it, but it may or may not "ping" and you would be giving up some performance and fuel economy. Does your distributor have a vacuum advance?

Unfortunately, I don't have any idea what your distributor or carburetor came out of, either. If the Motorcraft 2150 has the stock T.V. rod hooked up to it, you probably have a carburetor for a 1981 - 1983 F150. You don't absolutely have to use one for a 1983. I suggested 1983 because that was just the last year Ford used the Motorcraft 2150 with the AOD and Duraspark ignition for a 302-powered F150.

 

Is a 2150 from those years the only carb that my TV cable will hook to?

I just hate to buy a rebuild/reman'd and have to worry about whether or not the shaft bores are worn or starting to wear, etc.

Will none of the new Holleys or Edelbrocks work without re-engineering?

BTW thanks for all your advice - I appreciate it.

 

Yes. But your truck should have a T.V. rod.

Yes, they will work, but you will have to bolt on a throttle valve cable adapter to the throttle arm of a Holley or an Edelbrock carburetor:

TCI Auto 376715 - TCI TV Cable Bracket Corrector Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
TCI Auto 376710 - TCI TV Cable Bracket Corrector Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Plus the Lokar throttle valve cable to replace your stock throttle valve rod:

Lokar KD2AODHT - Lokar Stainless Steel Hi-Tech Kickdown Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

And you are also going to have to wire up the electric choke, as your Motorcraft used a hot air choke with electric assist.


When I replaced my own Motorcraft 2150 for a Holley 4V Avenger carburetor a few years ago, I found that the stock T.V. rod for the AOD would not hook up. I had to buy the parts listed above to make it work, and then I had to get my local transmission shop to set the AOD line pressure.

 

Yes TV rod.

Goodness. So $100 in extra parts. No just rigging up the TV rod to a bracket? It looks like the lokar cable may add an adjustability that will be lost by not having the 2150's bracket with the little adjustment screw?

 

NO, you do not want to "[rig] up the TV rod to a bracket." That TV rod directly controls the line pressure in the AOD. If the line pressure is not set correctly or if the TV rod or cable it is not connected to the carburetor correctly, it will ruin the transmission.

If the geometry between the TV rod or TV cable is not exactly proportionate to the movement of the throttle, it will get pulled out of adjustment. And when that happens, the line pressure is off again. The problem with the aftermarket Holley and Edelbrock carburetors is that their throttle arms are not symmetrical. As a result, the TV rod or cable will get pulled out adjustment under wide-open throttle. That is why you need to use that corrector bracket. But then the problem becomes the corrector bracket is not made to use the TV rod, so you have to use a TV cable.

Ford later replaced the TV rod with a TV cable when they started exclusively using electronic fuel injection with the AOD.