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I'm replacing my HPOP and lines, and can't figure out where the O-rings I got from Clay are supposed to go. The only thing resembling an O-ring on the old lines is a metal snap ring - like an O-ring with a little piece cut out of it - this fits in a recess on the HPOP and head fittings. I assume this doesn't get replaced with a Vitron ring, right?
Or, and I just thought of this, are the O-rings supposed to go on the fittings, but on the HPOP and head side, not the line side?
Duh. I should have stopped typing and started wrenching. The O-rings do, indeed, go on the fittings. You see them when removing the fitting from the head, not just when removing the line from the fitting. I'll leave this here in hopes of... ahem... saving someone else some embarrassment.
Good tip is to make sure the threads are 100% clean before reinstalling the fitting into the HPOP housing. Even a little tiny trace of oil will affect the loctite so make SURE the threads are clean. The fitting does not have to be super tight. The loctite does most of the sealing and the o-ring shouldn't be crushed...just tight enough to lightly compress. There probably is a torque spec somewhere bit I don't know what that is at the moment. Maybe someone will have that info for you.
Oh yeah...did I mention that the threads need to be spotlessly clean?
Thanks Alan. I'm actually replacing the the HPOP with a T500, so I'm not removing the fittings on that side. I assume the head side is supposed to be Locktited, to? Unfortunately, 680 seems to be made of freeze dried unicorn tears, as none of the eight places I just visited has it. I ended up with Permatex High Temp Thread Sealant, which I assume is the same thing.
Yeah Joey sealed them already for you there. The fittings that go on the oil rail should be ORB(O Ring Boss) meaning there should be an Oring on the threaded portion of the fitting.
Thanks man. A friend and I took some measurements with the stocker, and I'll post up both those and the new ones.
While you're being so helpful, you wouldn't happen to know the torque spec of the large IPR nut, would you? I just posted in the "Found a socket for the IPR" thread...
Torque for the IPR itself or the tin nut? I guess it doesn't matter, I do not have the specs for either, with it having an Oring i always just snug it nicely, the tin nut, definitely not very tight, just snug, I'll try to find it though.
Edit found it:
IPR.....47N-M (35 foot-lbs)
Solenoid nut......6N-M (53 inch lbs)