new injectors
#3
#5
I have a little more experience than some when it comes to removing and installing injectors on the 7.3 IDI. Be that a good thing or bad.
I have found that most of the "wet" injectors are caused by the disassembly of the return lines. The fuel in them spills down to the injector threads and pools there. When the injector is unscrewed and removed, the result is a wet injector.
Of course you could have had a return line leak all along and it seeped down past the threads. Water can get in there too. If you have rusty injectors, then you know water has gotten past the treads at the top. Teflon tape is not used to seal the threads so theoretically, fluids can seep through.
I have found that most of the "wet" injectors are caused by the disassembly of the return lines. The fuel in them spills down to the injector threads and pools there. When the injector is unscrewed and removed, the result is a wet injector.
Of course you could have had a return line leak all along and it seeped down past the threads. Water can get in there too. If you have rusty injectors, then you know water has gotten past the treads at the top. Teflon tape is not used to seal the threads so theoretically, fluids can seep through.
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#9
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smoothed right out did she?
the problem with replacing the injectors is; they pop at higher pressures than worn out injectors (back up to spec.)
well this is not a problem per say of course lol.
but see,the tired out ip may not be up to this task.so now your problem may be much worse than just a failed lift pump.
this is why its recommended to replace the ip at the same time you replace the injectors (which is approx every 100k to maintain peak performance and fuel economy.)
but she isn't firing off the spray....be sure to double check for power @ the FSS.
if she's firing,and the fuel filter is full/have pressure @ the schrader valve,but just won't run......the fresh injectors may have made the tired ip yell: UNCLE!
the ip you want for your '94 turbo:
DB2831-5069 05069 1816340C91 7.3 Liter 1993-94 Ford F Truck - (Turbo) Auto Trans. (190 HP)
DB2831-5070 05070 1816350C91 7.3 Liter 1993-94 Ford F Truck - (Turbo) Man Trans. (190 HP)
if this is for your '92 N/A:
DB2831-5013 05013 1816521C91 7.3 Liter 1992-1/2 Ford F Truck - Auto Trans. (185 HP)
DB2831-5028 05028 1816523C91 7.3 Liter 1992-1/2 Ford F Truck - Man Trans. (185 HP)
the problem with replacing the injectors is; they pop at higher pressures than worn out injectors (back up to spec.)
well this is not a problem per say of course lol.
but see,the tired out ip may not be up to this task.so now your problem may be much worse than just a failed lift pump.
this is why its recommended to replace the ip at the same time you replace the injectors (which is approx every 100k to maintain peak performance and fuel economy.)
but she isn't firing off the spray....be sure to double check for power @ the FSS.
if she's firing,and the fuel filter is full/have pressure @ the schrader valve,but just won't run......the fresh injectors may have made the tired ip yell: UNCLE!
the ip you want for your '94 turbo:
DB2831-5069 05069 1816340C91 7.3 Liter 1993-94 Ford F Truck - (Turbo) Auto Trans. (190 HP)
DB2831-5070 05070 1816350C91 7.3 Liter 1993-94 Ford F Truck - (Turbo) Man Trans. (190 HP)
if this is for your '92 N/A:
DB2831-5013 05013 1816521C91 7.3 Liter 1992-1/2 Ford F Truck - Auto Trans. (185 HP)
DB2831-5028 05028 1816523C91 7.3 Liter 1992-1/2 Ford F Truck - Man Trans. (185 HP)
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however, i do think i may be able to help the more experienced who come along,by asking;
what year is this truck? the '92 n/a or the '94 turbo? i think this should should be cleared up for starters.
how many miles on the ip? does it seem to be original,or has it been rebuild once? any indicators of a rebuilt ip such as markings,paint on any bolts etc,etc.
when she jump started,did she light right up and run as soon as you popped the clutch or......
#12
#13
You got an odd problem there. Even with mild air intrusion they usually start after a bit of cranking. If it was air keeping it from starting I wouldn't think that roll starting would have worked either, it still needs fuel to start.....unless you had worked out most of the air cranking it, allowing it to start when you popped the clutch. Are any of the injectors or return lines wet now? Did you lube the orings before installing the plastic caps? You may have cut several if you didn't.
#15
What condition is the starting system, (batterys ,starter, cables)? It sounds like one or mor are tired. Roll starting may be spinning the engine faster than the starting system is. My 90 would do this every so often, sound like it was spinning over fast but no start. Roll start it, and it would be running as soon as the clutch was out. The starter was tired, and when the remaned starter was on it sounded as if it turn over twice as fast.