Water Pump??
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From: Loganville,GA
Water Pump??
Hey Guys,
Well I was driving to work the other day and Noticed My Temp Gauge was Higher then Normal. So I pulled over and Discovered I was Low on Rad. Fluid. Topped it off, When i got to work I noticed it had a steady leak. Its coming from the Front of the engine. I checked the obvious stuff for Leaks: Radiator, Hoses Etc. It is seems to be Leaking from the Bottom of the water pump? It is leaking down behind on the Bottom Main Pulley. Does that Sound like a water pump? If so How Hard is that to replace??
Thanks, Mark
Well I was driving to work the other day and Noticed My Temp Gauge was Higher then Normal. So I pulled over and Discovered I was Low on Rad. Fluid. Topped it off, When i got to work I noticed it had a steady leak. Its coming from the Front of the engine. I checked the obvious stuff for Leaks: Radiator, Hoses Etc. It is seems to be Leaking from the Bottom of the water pump? It is leaking down behind on the Bottom Main Pulley. Does that Sound like a water pump? If so How Hard is that to replace??
Thanks, Mark
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Mi'kma'ki
hi Mark,
the water pump does have a weep hole.when she weeps,its time to replace her.
the job is not too difficult.the hardest part will be removing and reinstalling the fan clutch.
remember left hand threads,and to use loc tite combined with lots of muscle when it goes back on.
when changing the water pump be sure to note the locations of the bolts as they come out.installing the wrong length bolt back into the water pump would be catastrophic.
since the system will be drained,it would be a good time to make sure that the proper low silicate coolant with proper amount of SCA's are poured back in.along with a new 13 lb cap and both upper and lower (be sure to swap your spring into the new lower hose) hoses with new hose clamps.
the water pump does have a weep hole.when she weeps,its time to replace her.
the job is not too difficult.the hardest part will be removing and reinstalling the fan clutch.
remember left hand threads,and to use loc tite combined with lots of muscle when it goes back on.
when changing the water pump be sure to note the locations of the bolts as they come out.installing the wrong length bolt back into the water pump would be catastrophic.
since the system will be drained,it would be a good time to make sure that the proper low silicate coolant with proper amount of SCA's are poured back in.along with a new 13 lb cap and both upper and lower (be sure to swap your spring into the new lower hose) hoses with new hose clamps.
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From: Loganville,GA
Alright Thanks for that Info.. when I take off the Fan Clutch the Fan comes off with it? or so I have to remove Fan Separate?
Also I noticed that some of the Bolts going onto the water pump hold brackets to other components. Do I have to take those Brackets out or Just remove bolts and they will stay in place?
I actually Just replaced Radiator last year so it has new Hoses and Clamps... but I Def. will be getting new Coolant etc.
Also I noticed that some of the Bolts going onto the water pump hold brackets to other components. Do I have to take those Brackets out or Just remove bolts and they will stay in place?
I actually Just replaced Radiator last year so it has new Hoses and Clamps... but I Def. will be getting new Coolant etc.
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Joined: May 2002
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When I do jobs where there are many bolts of different lengths, like with this water pump job, I have a method that works so well I thought I would share it.
Take a card board box and set it it up in the box position (not flat). Use a big magic marker to roughly draw the outline of the front of the component you are removing. Every time you pull a bolt, jam it into the cardboard in the location in the drawing of the part, that coincides with the actual part. I think I got the idea on this board years ago, but it works so well. if you have to roll it up for the night and finish the next day, no worries, set your box of bolts in the shelf.
Take a card board box and set it it up in the box position (not flat). Use a big magic marker to roughly draw the outline of the front of the component you are removing. Every time you pull a bolt, jam it into the cardboard in the location in the drawing of the part, that coincides with the actual part. I think I got the idea on this board years ago, but it works so well. if you have to roll it up for the night and finish the next day, no worries, set your box of bolts in the shelf.
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Joined: Dec 2010
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hold on before you replace the water pump when you buy the new one make sure they give you two bolts that go in the very top of the water pump because the original bolts will shear your injector pump and make sure you get the gasket that will fit it and put some gasket maker i call it pookey but i think it is like high temp rtb paste mine was a kinda of redish color but other than that just follow what every one else told you and the fan and fanclutch come off all together its pretty easy
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I took out shroud as i pulled the fan out didnt seem like it would come out without pulling shroud
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From: Loganville,GA
All Good Ideas and Helpful info.. I am gonna try and Tackle that this weekend... I just got done with Rear Brakes on my other F-250 this eveing... Its always something...lol
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a much easier way of keeping track of which bolts go in what hole is to have the new water pump right by you. as you take out a bolt from the old pump put it in the corresponding hole on the new pump. once you have the old pump off take the bolts out of the new pump and put them in the correct hole in the old pump. then when you put the new pump on you will be all set as to which bolt goes on which hole.
I just got done doing my whole cooling system. as far as sealing the h2o pump i put rtv on the pump, then put the gasket on, then put another small bead of rtv on the gasket, then put the pump on the engine. has not leaked yet.
I just got done doing my whole cooling system. as far as sealing the h2o pump i put rtv on the pump, then put the gasket on, then put another small bead of rtv on the gasket, then put the pump on the engine. has not leaked yet.
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From: Loganville,GA
Hey Guys, I am just now getting around to my water Pump... Been slammed at work and Been Driving the powerstroke... What do I need to get the Fan Clutch off the Water Pump? Do I need a Big Wrench? Do I rent one at auto part store or what? Thanks, Mark
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From: Loganville,GA
Hey Guys,
I got my waterpump out after work tonight... wish I had more day light..lol... Anyways the Fitting on top that Comes off the old water pump that the heat core house hooks up to... How do you get that off? Mine seems to be on there really well. I used an Open End Wrench and if wont budge even with Tapping with a Hammer! its pretty soft Metal and I dont want to strip it out..I think it was a 1" or I just buy a new one? Thats the only thing really holding me up right now.
I got my waterpump out after work tonight... wish I had more day light..lol... Anyways the Fitting on top that Comes off the old water pump that the heat core house hooks up to... How do you get that off? Mine seems to be on there really well. I used an Open End Wrench and if wont budge even with Tapping with a Hammer! its pretty soft Metal and I dont want to strip it out..I think it was a 1" or I just buy a new one? Thats the only thing really holding me up right now.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Western Mass
Use the closed end of a wrench to get more leverage with less worry of stripping it. If you can't get it off, I think you could just replace it with a new one. I'm not sure what size it is, but shouldn't be too hard to find a fitting that works.
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From: Loganville,GA
Its just being a Pain... Everything was going smooth... There is always a Bump in the road with me...lol... I went to auto part store.. They sell a Fitting that will work it is just not as long as the Stock one. The Stock one is about 4 inchs long and the aftermarket is only 1 inch.. I am gonna try heating it up in the morning and see if that helps out... if not I will have to make the crappy auto part store one work...lol