i have a 68 with a 390 and a 2100 2v. when it idles or is shut off fuel drips from the bottom of the accel pump gasket. when it runs, it drips and if i press the pump lever fuel will also squirt out the left side of the pump it did this with the old and new diaphragm. what do i need to do to fix it? i am going to the store for some permatex to try that. hopefully someone will have suggestions when i get back. tia mike.

 

Check the mating surfaces of the pump diaphragm for cracks or corrosion.

 

well i measured it with a straight edge. the carb body is square but the accel pump lever side has about a 1/16" curve across a 1.5" length. permatex for now and then either a 2300 on stock manifold or 4v and manifold. i'll wait for the hi po book to get here to decide.

 

I had the same problem so I filed it flat and slapped on a new gasket.

Gotta be easy with the four attaching screws cuz over-tightening them will cause the pump cover to bow. I don't know why Ford engineered it with free-floating ears instead of a square piece of metal which would provide more meat.

 

It was another of their "Better Ideas". LOL





John

 

well the permatex fixed the accel pump diaphragm leak (it doesn't squirt out of the left side of the pump any more) but i still have a leak from the carb. one drop every two seconds. so i guess a rebuild gasket kit is next. or should i just get a 2300?

 

Oh, you mean like in the 80s when Ford decided to have the horn actuated by the turn signal stalk?

Keep the 2100! The 2300 is like a steaming pile of dung on a cold winter day.

 

hmmmm the gas resistant permatex isn't, so, out comes the file!

 

There is no such thing as an accelerator pump gasket.

When you remove the cover, behind it is the accelerator pump diaphram (C4AZ-9B559-A - Motorcraft CM-463), coil spring, and accelerator pump check valve (C4AZ-9576-A - Motorcraft CM-825).

The accelerator pump diaphram itself acts as the gasket, has a nasty habit of hardening up. When this occurres, fuel leaks out.

People tend to overtighten the 4 screws that retain the cover to the carb body, causing it to become warped...fuel leaks out as a result.

People also tend to install the accelerator pump diaphram *** backwards. The vehicle tends to stumble because the coil spring doesn't fit properly, and this can also cause fuel to leak out.

The check valve has a tiny nipple on it...that fits into the carb body. The nipple is difficult to install, and so...is notorious for snapping off.

Both the accelerator pump diaphram and check valve have been notorious terds since day one. Having problems with one/both in very common with the 2100 series carbs.

These two parts and the carb kit (D4AZ-9A586-A (replaced C2AZ-9A586-B) - Motorcraft CT-499D) fit ALL Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2100 series carbs installed in 1962/74 F100/750's & Passenger Cars, 1966/74 Bronco's and 1969/74 Econolines.

btw: When Ford introduced the Escort/Lynx in 1981, they wanted these cars to have similar controls as the foreign competition. One result is having the horn work off the turn signal lever.

Also seen on Tempo/Topaz. Customers b!tched so much, that the horn returned to its normal place on the steering wheel by the late 1980's.

 

well i guess it's fixed. no more 40 seconds of cranking to start. no stumble and it passed smog. the engine is < 20k miles and the carb was swapped in 2002. actually except for tranny and p/s pump everything under the hood is < 20k. not bad for $1000. and man does that 390 pull.