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I have had the HPS pads for about 4 years when I put on my Powerslot rotors. I had the stock brakes on before that. Now I put on the SD pads as I thought the HPS pads were worn. After I swapped them out, they still had plenty of pad left.
They stop my truck pretty quick, but I have been running them long enough to make it tough to say they are better or worse than anything else.
I put my the hawk pads on front and back today guys! Works a lot better if you get them in the right order bad news is front right caliper is junk and needs to be replaced. One side is good
Sorry about that, not sure how to edit our posts on here, but I hit send before I meant to, but one side is good and the other side is siezed leading to one brake pad wore out before the other side. And it must of been like that guess I'm making a trip to the parts store tomorrow!
Yeah, one slide pin was completely siezed 3/4's of the way out. I tried heat, pb blaster,channel locks, everything to wiggle that thing loose and she wouldn't give. The other one moves in and out beautifuly though. I moved on to the opposite wheel, lubed the slide pins, changed the pads and put my tools up for the night and got on here to read up about others trials and tribulations with their 7.3's.
I check slide pins at least every other tire rotation - but I drive ALOT so thats like every couple months for me. All ya have to do is loosen the slide pin bolts and make sure the pin will slide. If its sticky, take the bolt all the way out, push caliper out of the way and pull the pin out - then clean, re-lube and re-install.
I've been using dielectric grease to lube slide pins for a few years now. It works better than 'caliper grease' IMO - lasts longer... NEVER use anti-seize or bearing grease on your slide pins!!!!!!
You can buy a 'hardware kit' at autoparts if ya need new slide pins. Worst case scenario you can remove the brackets and soak the end in PB Blaster or Kriol (this stuff is badazzz). The brackets are also available if you give up...
Oh yeah, apparently if ya turn a can of 'Dust Off' upside down you can get a stream of liquid CO2 - you might try 'freezing' the pins to get them out. Then rep our friend CPUneck for sharing that bit of genius with us!!
No kidding? That will have to go on my maintenance list. And I've always just used anti-sieze on my pins, what's its downfall as opposed to dieelectric grease? Actually, these hawk pads came with their own special type of grease I lubed the left side up with, when I get this right side going I'll finish the tube up and hopefully all will be well.
Anti-seize dries out and once moisture gets in there our old friend oxidation goes to work. Dielectric grease is a silicone-based lubricant designed for high temps (like spark plug boots!) and it stays 'wet' for a loooong time!
That's a great idea, I'll start using that for sure. I applied some more heat to my siezed brake caliper pin and finally got the bugger loose. Upon closer inspection of my rotor I noticed a small stress crack in it. Its toast. No local shop had a rotor so I'll be picking one up tomorrow at 7:30. why such a big difference in the cost of rotors? A 13 inch rotor is 115 where 14.5 is 49? Supply and demand?
I went to all the local shops around for a 13 inch front passenger side rotor for my 2002 srw crew cab 4x4. All they had was a 14.5 diameter rotor. I was just wondering if they were used on duallys or something? If that's why there cheaper and why the stores had them in stock but not my 13's?
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