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coolant cap

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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 01:35 PM
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coolant cap

Hey guys, I'm new to post but have been following this site for 2 months and have really learned a lot from you. My problem is : I have '06 KR 250 and am pulling a 14,000 lb. 5th wheel travel trailer around this beautiful country. I have been having my coolant "puked" out the tank cap. From reading here it sounds like EGR cooler prob. and other related items. I have to pull out of these mountains in Colorado to get home. That is when it pukes, on a hard pull. Was wondering if I loosened the cap would that help keep my coolant in the system, or would there be other problems I could develop from this, Just trying to get it home so I can trade for a new one! Would really appreciate you feedback. By the way, this is my first diesel.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 02:27 PM
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don't loosen the cap that will lower your bolling point in the system.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 04:30 PM
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Why do you have to get all the way home to get a new cap? Isn't there a dealer between you and home?
 
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 69cj
Why do you have to get all the way home to get a new cap? Isn't there a dealer between you and home?
I think he meant trade for a new truck
 
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
I think he meant trade for a new truck
OOPs! Get a bad cap and drive a new truck under it. I thought it was the other way around. My Bad!! Think I'd find out the problem before I went the 60 grand route.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 09:19 PM
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I thought it was the cap at first, replaced it (twice). then found your forum and discovered it must be egr cooler & oil cooler. just don't want to spend any money on it. Too old to tackle it myself. need reliable truck cause we are on the road a lot. this is first real trouble I've had. sounds like to do this job right it can get involved and expensive. great truck and would like to keep but I also like what they say about 6.7. Mentally flipping a coin. so, don't loosen the cap. Thanks.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 09:47 PM
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If you are intent on trading your truck in for a 6.7, I think I'd drive down the hill without the 5'r and head for the nearest Ford Dealership and buy that 6.7. Towing the 5'r with it is probably increasing your chance for a catestrophic failure, which would certainly lower the trade in value of your truck.
Just a thought.
Although, even paying someone else to fix the problem would be much less $$$ than that new truck...
Good luck, T
 
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 10:37 PM
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The funny thing is , after puking it still does not get hot. needle climbed up and turned off A/C and temp dropped right back down. throws out about a QT. or so each leg of drive and never gets lower. Thanks for input.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by KR-Pete
The funny thing is , after puking it still does not get hot. needle climbed up and turned off A/C and temp dropped right back down. throws out about a QT. or so each leg of drive and never gets lower. Thanks for input.
The factory gauge is worthless. Basically nothing but an idiot light with a needle that shows cold, normal, HOT. By the time it shows hot it's too late.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 05:26 AM
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KR-pete where are you filling the bottle to the min level is the new full not the max level. Mine does best a hair below the min level. Leave it low and see how it does.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 08:17 AM
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Did you get Ford's little min / max coolant level sticker installed on your degas bottle? That was a recall years ago, where they determined that the min / max marks on the degas bottle were at too high of a level, so they put a sticker on the bottle to mark the lower values. Kind of a cheesy remedy, but one they apparently felt was needing for a recall. As I remember, they were having problems with coolant blowing out of the cap. Once the caps released coolant, then another cap was needed so even after customers being advised of the new coolant level, they had to install a new cap as well, for the recall.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:50 AM
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Yes i did when i got a new bottle , the original was cracked.
 
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