NO HEAT
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New User
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Massachusetts
NO HEAT
I have a 2001 F-250 SD Lariet 4X4 5.4L, I just fixed the Pulse Vacumn Hub Solenoid, Which also controls the HVAC system vacum assist duct doors, works perfect but did nothing for the heat. I have plenty of air blowing out the ducts. Also I changed the T-Stat, Still no heat , any suggestions would be greatly helpful.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 2
From: CA Bay Area
Superduties have coolant running vial heater core all the time and no valve on the system. The temperature is adjusted by electronically controlled mixer that opens the blend door around the heater core or around the evaporator.
Sounds like the mixer is at fault here
Here is a topic with more explanation. I do have pictures I am planning to add to it, but have to figure out how to transfer pictures from my phone to this forum.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ater-core.html
Sounds like the mixer is at fault here
Here is a topic with more explanation. I do have pictures I am planning to add to it, but have to figure out how to transfer pictures from my phone to this forum.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ater-core.html
Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 112
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I just replaced the "electronic blend door actuator" on my 01 F-350 V-10. It was about $55 from the stealer. My problem is that I had no AC but plenty of heat which I didn't need here in Arizona. It is not a difficult fix. Just drop the glovebox door and you can see the unit on top of the heater box. Remove the 2 screws and the electric connector and it rotate it and pull it up. Install the new one in reverse order.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Massachusetts
NO HEAT
Superduties have coolant running vial heater core all the time and no valve on the system. The temperature is adjusted by electronically controlled mixer that opens the blend door around the heater core or around the evaporator.
Sounds like the mixer is at fault here
Here is a topic with more explanation. I do have pictures I am planning to add to it, but have to figure out how to transfer pictures from my phone to this forum.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ater-core.html
Sounds like the mixer is at fault here
Here is a topic with more explanation. I do have pictures I am planning to add to it, but have to figure out how to transfer pictures from my phone to this forum.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ater-core.html
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Massachusetts
I just replaced the "electronic blend door actuator" on my 01 F-350 V-10. It was about $55 from the stealer. My problem is that I had no AC but plenty of heat which I didn't need here in Arizona. It is not a difficult fix. Just drop the glovebox door and you can see the unit on top of the heater box. Remove the 2 screws and the electric connector and it rotate it and pull it up. Install the new one in reverse order.
Thanks for the advice
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
Likes: 669
From: Scio, OR
Like has already been said. Check the temp of the heater hoses. They should be as hot as the radiator hoses. If not, something is stopping the flow of coolant to the heater core.
Is your truck a Crew Cab? If it is, is has a coolant shutoff valve on one of the heater hoses. However, this valve is vacuum controlled and defaults to open, so unless it's stuck closed it's not likely your problem. It would still be worth checking, though. There should be vacuum to the valve when the heater is turned OFF, and the valve should close. Turn the heat on, the vacuum should go away and the valve should open.
If your truck isn't a Crew Cab there is no valve.
Is your truck a Crew Cab? If it is, is has a coolant shutoff valve on one of the heater hoses. However, this valve is vacuum controlled and defaults to open, so unless it's stuck closed it's not likely your problem. It would still be worth checking, though. There should be vacuum to the valve when the heater is turned OFF, and the valve should close. Turn the heat on, the vacuum should go away and the valve should open.
If your truck isn't a Crew Cab there is no valve.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: CA Bay Area
With the core hot I can't see the other way to have no heat than faulty blender door. In my parked truck the heater core warms up the air to the degree that I always get a blow from "hairdryer" when I restart AC.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 807
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From: Houston, TX
For anyone who might be interested. Just had the same problem this last week on my '03 6.0. No heat.
All the vacuum was working (vent selector working..defrost, vents, floor), and the blender actuator was working (took it off, left it plugged in and turn the temp control and you can see it move).
The last thing I found was (inside the engine bay) a vacuum solenoid on top of one of the hoses on the passenger side going back to the firewall. The little vacuum actuator line looked to be plugged in, so with the temp control turned to hot, I took the handle of a screwdriver and gave it a few sharp taps....and hot air started flowing a few seconds later. I'm guessing that vacuum solenoid is sticking. But at least I have heat now!!
PS... on my '03, I didn't have to remove any screws to remove the blender door actuator. It is just snapped into place with three posts (two in front and one in back). Using a flat bladed screwdriver, I just pried it up and it popped loose and I lifted it out.
TX
All the vacuum was working (vent selector working..defrost, vents, floor), and the blender actuator was working (took it off, left it plugged in and turn the temp control and you can see it move).
The last thing I found was (inside the engine bay) a vacuum solenoid on top of one of the hoses on the passenger side going back to the firewall. The little vacuum actuator line looked to be plugged in, so with the temp control turned to hot, I took the handle of a screwdriver and gave it a few sharp taps....and hot air started flowing a few seconds later. I'm guessing that vacuum solenoid is sticking. But at least I have heat now!!
PS... on my '03, I didn't have to remove any screws to remove the blender door actuator. It is just snapped into place with three posts (two in front and one in back). Using a flat bladed screwdriver, I just pried it up and it popped loose and I lifted it out.
TX
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