Alignment Specs
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: sw mich
Alignment Specs
I put in aluminum coil spacers from summit racing under the front springs over the weekend. Took the truck down and had an alignment done today. It drives horrible now. The steering is way too tight and will not return to center hardly at all. I can't believe they could have test drove this. I was scared to drive it home.
Here are the new specs:
Left Camber: 1.3 degrees Right Camber: 1.4 degrees
Left Caster: 3.4 degrees Right Caster: 2.2 degrees
Left Toe: 0.03 degrees Right Toe: 0.03 degrees
He admitted he had a hard time getting it within spec, now I'm wondering if I'm going to have to pull the spacers out. I like the look, but this is not drivable.
Here are the new specs:
Left Camber: 1.3 degrees Right Camber: 1.4 degrees
Left Caster: 3.4 degrees Right Caster: 2.2 degrees
Left Toe: 0.03 degrees Right Toe: 0.03 degrees
He admitted he had a hard time getting it within spec, now I'm wondering if I'm going to have to pull the spacers out. I like the look, but this is not drivable.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 16
From: Ouray, CO
What size spacers 1" or 2" did you use??
How much space did you have above the front bump stops?
Both before & after the spacer would be very good to know also!
Your right Caster is too low compared to these specs for my '05 Ex.
Caster Left: Min 3.0 Max 5.8
Right: Min 3.2 Max 6.0
Camber Left & Right: Min -0.4 Max 1.6
Toe Left & Right: Min -0.1 Max 0.15
Max Delta: Min -0.15 Max 0.35
I've been wondering how much additional lift I could tolerate with
new front springs, w/o impacting the alignment.
Thanks for posting!
How much space did you have above the front bump stops?
Both before & after the spacer would be very good to know also!
Your right Caster is too low compared to these specs for my '05 Ex.
Caster Left: Min 3.0 Max 5.8
Right: Min 3.2 Max 6.0
Camber Left & Right: Min -0.4 Max 1.6
Toe Left & Right: Min -0.1 Max 0.15
Max Delta: Min -0.15 Max 0.35
I've been wondering how much additional lift I could tolerate with
new front springs, w/o impacting the alignment.
Thanks for posting!
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: sw mich
2" spacers. I do not remember seeing any bump stops. I'll have to look-definitely didn't measure before. Other than the alignment, the only adverse effect I've noticed is a little extra tension in the sway bar. Feels a little stiffer than before.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: sw mich
Now I'm irritated. He is starting to insist that I need lower ball joints now. I replaced lowers about 3-4 years ago with Moogs and they are still tight! He says its not a matter of being tight, some are just like that!
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: sw mich
Well after a little research here I think I found my answer. It looks like I need to do a little grinding. Driver's side knuckle is scrubbing the axle at the top corner, Passenger side knuckle is rubbing hard along the whole top side. I don't know how he even got the adjusters in without noticing 
. It looks to me like I'm going to need to grind a good 3/16" - 1/4" between the two surfaces in order to make this work.
Here's a link from FTE that I found helpful.
. It looks to me like I'm going to need to grind a good 3/16" - 1/4" between the two surfaces in order to make this work.Here's a link from FTE that I found helpful.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Well after a little research here I think I found my answer. It looks like I need to do a little grinding. Driver's side knuckle is scrubbing the axle at the top corner, Passenger side knuckle is rubbing hard along the whole top side. I don't know how he even got the adjusters in without noticing . It looks to me like I'm going to need to grind a good 3/16" - 1/4" between the two surfaces in order to make this work.
Here's a link from FTE that I found helpful.
. It looks to me like I'm going to need to grind a good 3/16" - 1/4" between the two surfaces in order to make this work.Here's a link from FTE that I found helpful.
Stewart
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 16
From: Ouray, CO
X-70 Good luck on the grinding.. and thanks for posting your issue.
I know the twin-I beam are not very adjustable.
Did you need to remove ball-joints to replace the front coil springs?
I've seen a procedure only says you may need to deal with brake line?
I've got this job on my to-do list in the winter when it isn't 95* outside.
I know the twin-I beam are not very adjustable.
Did you need to remove ball-joints to replace the front coil springs?
I've seen a procedure only says you may need to deal with brake line?
I've got this job on my to-do list in the winter when it isn't 95* outside.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: sw mich
nope the installation was pretty easy. weno messing with brakes or ball joints. just had to unhook lower end of shock and sway bar end links. loosening the main sway bar mounts helps the axle drop further, but isn't necessary. the lower spring clamp bolt was tight, i had to heat that with a butane torch.
i'm thinking now about making some homemade brackets for the radius arm ends and axle ends.
i'm thinking now about making some homemade brackets for the radius arm ends and axle ends.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: sw mich
nope the installation was pretty easy. weno messing with brakes or ball joints. just had to unhook lower end of shock and sway bar end links. loosening the main sway bar mounts helps the axle drop further, but isn't necessary. the lower spring clamp bolt was tight, i had to heat that with a butane torch.
i'm thinking now about making some homemade brackets for the radius arm ends and axle ends.
i'm thinking now about making some homemade brackets for the radius arm ends and axle ends.
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