If I remember correctly solid cam and lifters around 200 buck and 60 bucks for the break in. the break in uses all the zinc and extra goodies needed to help the cam out. Its not way out on price range but a little extra. MPG does a good job and then you now have scott for your tech support on building you the best cam for your application. Nice having a cam cutter in your corner.

 

Absolutely agree!!!!!! When you compare the price of cam to cam & lifters to lifters between the family owned and the Corporate entities (such as comp), the price difference is nill....especially if you add up all the extras that Comp charges for that the "Family" shops (that have been in business for 30-40+ years) have been doing all along. Heck...I know Ron (Iskenderian) still checks every single valve spring before it leaves the shop....and like you said, you have an automatic expert source for guiding you on the engine build for your specific application and operational environment!

 

I know I push the MPGheads guys and I get nothing from it. The only thing I gain is Scott Main (mpgheads) keeps in business (20+yrs) and I keep building my fords with a experienced ford guy. Maybe their are better guys out their but I know these guys are one of the good ones. On another note if you keep up with Enginemaster competitions Mpg heads has been involved from the beginning (10 yrs) and has countless hours of DYNO time I would just dream of. They have placed in the top 5 acouple of times and did it with a ford engine actions speak more than words. ran the built up 400 several times. I don't have this privilege so I have to work and trust scott on his cams he cuts for me. As long as I give him good info and things work out. Good input good output! BS in and BS out. its up to me to get it right.

 

Beechkid, 260 bucks for cam and lifters already broken in is pretty good. I'd imagine a hyd cam and lifters wouldn't be much more. Again if there are any aussie followers out there who know of any cam grinders in OZ I'd be interested to known but I reckon you'd pay through the nose for it. My cam cost just under 2 hundy with freight from an australian supplier , actually a good deal as they were 250+ everywhere else. That didn't include lifters but I won't go there. If I was in the market for a new custom ground cam and lifters I'd give them a call! Approx 3 hundy with freight as long as that didn't get out of control would be cool. I'm just a long way away if anything went pear shaped. I certainly hope the OP doesn't think we're jacking his thread!

 

Sorry the joys of replying on the work blackberry! Please read cam gronders in oz who offert a break in service. There are plenty of cam grinders heren just don't know if they do break in service.

 

If you're going to use a hydraulic flat tappet cam I would recommend calling Tmeyer Inc. and get a set of their inspected lifters. I had to replace the lifters that was used with my engine build because of bleed down issues that was causing valve train ticking. The quality control for hydraulic lifters has really suffered. Tim Meyer has each individual lifter inspected before selling them.

 

Hello. I bought the 268h cam from comp cams for the 400 I'm building right now. I also bought the timing set, lifters, and valve springs that are recommended for this cam on comp cams website. I did not buy the recommended push rods because they were too short for a 400. They recommended push rods are 8.412" long but I think factory was around 9.5". Since I found that out I went back and looked at the rods that came out of the block and rolled them across a granite counter top to see if they were bent even by the slightest and they all appeared to be in great condition. I'm tempted to try the factory rods, however, the spring rate for comp cams spring is 241, which is more than likely quite a bit more than the factory ones were. That said I'm scared the factory rods will bend from the heavier spring rate that'll I get from the comp cams springs. Also the block has been decked .010 so that also might be important to take into consideration. The heads are factory heads with the factory style rockers, so nonadjustable. Any response would be appreciated

Thank You.
Garry

 

You replied on a thread from 2011, hopefully someone will reply or maybe make it it's own thread. I have a XE262H in my 400. The machine shop did the installation on the cam and heads. I haven't run it yet, life has gotten the way and the project has been stalled out for a couple of years. I have long tube headers, C6 w/ shift kit, Edelbrock intake w/ Quickfuel carb. Hopefully it will be a decent running rig.

 

The stock pushrods should work fine. There are a few reasons why you would want to change the pushrods with this sort of cam install. If you have heads with guide plates you'll need hardened pushrods. Also you might need longer pushrods because the cam lobes have more lift that stock. To get more lift the base circle of the cam lobes are smaller than stock.. With cams you get more lift by starting lower yet ending up in the same spot. The cam lobes on a Ford like this can only be as large as the #4 journal. With this said you may or may not need a longer pushrod to get adequate lifter compression. This may or may not be a problem. If you put it together with the stock ones and you have reasonable lifter preload they will work fine.

I would be very careful with the spring loads. The springs sold by Comp are probably going to give you far more load than you need. Especially open. I'd try for about 90lbs seat and no more than 250lbs open. Otherwise the cam will have a very short life.