I was wondering if anyone has put heavier duty springs in the front resulting in less spring sagging. And if so what lb was used ?
<O</O
<O</O

I was looking around the internet and found 3,995 coil springs ( this is similar to 4x4 with the use of a “ X-Code “ spring from my understanding ) and they claim a 1 ½” lift due to spring sag I also saw they have a 5,000 spring that claims a 2” lift over stock.


<O</OI ended up purchasing the 3,995 springs because I thought the ride would be to rough with a 5,000 pound spring. I have not put them in yet and was wondering if I made a bad choice and should go with the 5,000 pound spring prior to installing them. I do not plow with the truck I live in CA and am replacing them due to high mileage on my springs the benefits of the lift due to spring sag. ( I don’t like spacers )


<O</OTruck is a 2001 F250 Supercab LWB w/ a 5.4<O</O

 

Hello,
I would have bought the 5000lbs just for the 2" of lift. Check out this link it has to do with X springs. maybe it will give you some Idea.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-on-17x8s.html

 

I did have a chance to read though that prior to posting and a lot of reasons people go with the " X " springs on the 4x4 is for lift/clearance same as the backspace/offset and not being able to use 05+ wheels. However on a 2wd we don't have as many issues as their is no leaf spring to worry about so we have more flexibility.

I was more looking for the ride quality of the 3,995 vs. 5,000 pounds the extra 1/2 inch of assumed lift per MFG is also in question depending on the ride quality. I do understand a stronger spring will have less sag thus equate to a simulated lift.

I already have Energy Suspension bushings ill be putting in so I don't want to harsh of a ride that the springs might generate with the extra 1,005lbs on spring rate. I have a young daughter still in a car seat.

 

I don't think you'll get a lift out of stiffer springs. If you want to raise the vehicle, you need longer springs, not stiffer ones. I ordered my 02 with the heaviest front springs you could get and drove it until the springs were worn out, the bump stops were hitting the arms and the tires pointed inward. I replaced them with Ford springs with the same rating. When I removed the old springs and stood them next to the brand new springs, there was no difference in height, but the new springs picked the front of the truck back up to where it was supposed to be because they were stiffer. It did not raise the front above the stock height.

If you want taller springs, visit your local spring shop and have them build you a set. Stiffer springs up front will only give you a stiffer ride.

 

That is my exact thought. Its compensating for the spring sag/load via the stiffer spring and thats why the claim the 1.5" or 2" lift over stock.

I didnt think it was possible either due to just common sense you can put something back same size and expect it to be bigger.

 

Just an fyi, any change in ride height with a 2wd (TIB) truck will require drop down brackets, bent I beams or alignment cams to get your camber back to a normal level. The taller the spring the more your tires want to ride on the outside of the tread.

 

Alignment cams? From my understanding it takes a eccentric* bushing to correct the caster/camber. I do have a set of moog +/- 2 degree bushings. Haven't got my alignment done yet but will once installed hopefully this weekend

 

I added a leveling kit to my 02 2wd after a couple hundred thousand miles and the alignment shop only had to rotate the existing cams to get the wheels right. No new parts needed, just adjust the existing and we were good.

If you've got any slop in your steering, I'd suggest you also replace your end links before getting it aligned. New ones stiffened up my steering quite a bit.

 

Yep, have new Moog inner/outer tie rods, Moog Adjusting sleeve's, Moog Eccentric bushings, Energy Bushings, Bearings, Ball Joints, Rotors, Calipers, Springs and shocks.

Doing a complete front end rebuild. Figure mind as well do it all the truck has 156k on it and have time to burn.

 

Some people call the parts different things but they do the same job. I was just pointing it out because a few people i have talked to think that leveling a 2wd is just like a 4wd. Sounds like you have a good plan, when you are done i would love to see some pics as i have a 2wd as well.

 

For ride quality concerns, I personally would get a set of springs built that match the spring rate of OEM, but are 1-2" taller. Those 1,000 lbs stiffer springs you have most likely won't be that bad ride wise, but they are going to be stiffer since they aren't true lift springs

FYI, I have 4 kids, 3 of them in carseats. They love riding in "Daddies rough truck". Once your kid is big enough to hold their own neck straight the roughness of the ride shouldn't really be an issue. I've gone rock crawling with my daughters <1 yr old

Yes and No. Progressive Springs are weird. When lowered my Mustang, I used FRPP Progressive springs that were almost 2" taller than the factory springs, but gave me a 1" drop

 

Have a 2011 SD CrewCab 6.7l 2WD. The camber bushings from factory/stock are adjustable/rotatable from +.125 - +.500. (just needs a lil' ingenuitive skill applied) I just upgraded to the 2013 Premium cast aluminum 8 spokes with Michelin LT275/65R20 tires. Wheels took up a lot of the wheel well so I went thru with my plan to level the front end. Bought the 2 inch spacer kit from FatBobs Garage, Part Number 20200-2WDSD. Installed yesterday with new, 4WD fit shocks - Monroe Reflex Part Number: NS 911266. I could tell when I put the spacers in, I was going positive on the camber. When I lowered the truck...yep..big time. So this morning, I got it back on jacks and looked at the bushing set-up. The stock camber has a tab that you can only lineup with the gap on the arm. Well, here in a pinch(no pun) this morning with no new bushings at hand, I decided to grind off the tab and make the bushing adjustable/rotatable. Did that, installed and could tell it helped but we'll see what the alignment shop says. I do see a set of adjustables on Napa's website that I think I'll get that are +/- 2.5 degrees. More to follow on this.
With the upgrade to 20" wheels and the leveling kit, my wheel well heights are(to bottom edge of lip): Rear = 40 3/8" Front = 40 1/8" Perfect in my mind.
Hope my first post on this forum helps someone; I perused here on this thread and got some good info before I joined and posted this. THANKS!!