Rear end gear help
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Rear end gear help
I'm getting ready to change the rear end gears out of my ford f250 and need help I believe it has a 4:10 posi bet am not sure I no it's low geared and am running about 2100 at 65 what I need to no is what I can reuse and what I need to replaced I plan on going to a 3:55 gear on the grounds that I can get way 19 to 20 mpg vs 10 to 12 any feed back would be appreciated thanks
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I'm getting ready to change the rear end gears out of my ford f250 and need help I believe it has a 4:10 posi bet am not sure I no it's low geared and am running about 2100 at 65 what I need to no is what I can reuse and what I need to replaced I plan on going to a 3:55 gear on the grounds that I can get way 19 to 20 mpg vs 10 to 12 any feed back would be appreciated thanks
What do you have in your truck. you should get better than 10-12. sounds like it might be time for a fuel system refresh.
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ZF5= you should be getting better mpg than what you get.
@ 90,000 miles your injectors and ip are going to be running on borrowed time soon. i would advance the timing on your IP about a dimes width and then watch your mpg. i was getting ~10, then i advanced my timing a couple dimes widths and i am up to ~18-20mpg. i have a fresh IP and injectors though.
@ 90,000 miles your injectors and ip are going to be running on borrowed time soon. i would advance the timing on your IP about a dimes width and then watch your mpg. i was getting ~10, then i advanced my timing a couple dimes widths and i am up to ~18-20mpg. i have a fresh IP and injectors though.
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What is the rear axle code on your truck? it can be found on the door sticker on the drivers side.
This link will tell you what you have...
Ford Axle Code Chart .: Articles
This link will tell you what you have...
Ford Axle Code Chart .: Articles
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You will need a timing meter. other will chime in and tell you what to look for.
you can make adjustments to your timing though with out the meter.
What you do is get the truck up to opperating temp. then shut the engine off. MAKE ALL TIMING ADJUSTMENTS WITH ENGINE OFF. you will need to loosen the three 9/16 nuts that hold the IP on to the IP gear cover housing. to advance the timing, which is the direction you need to go, you rotate the IP towards the passenger side fender. to retard the timing rotate towards driver's fender. there will be a couple tick marks on the IP gear housing and on the IP. you want to make your adjustments in dimes width increments. then tighten ALL 3 IP mounting nuts and start engine. you are getting close on the timing when you get a slight haze of black smoke under a good amount of acceleration. the sound of the engine should change some as well. it should sound a little bit like a PSD. a little louder and more rattle to it. if you over advance the timing then you might burn up glow plugs, but don't get to worried about that if you make small timing changes at a time.
you can make adjustments to your timing though with out the meter.
What you do is get the truck up to opperating temp. then shut the engine off. MAKE ALL TIMING ADJUSTMENTS WITH ENGINE OFF. you will need to loosen the three 9/16 nuts that hold the IP on to the IP gear cover housing. to advance the timing, which is the direction you need to go, you rotate the IP towards the passenger side fender. to retard the timing rotate towards driver's fender. there will be a couple tick marks on the IP gear housing and on the IP. you want to make your adjustments in dimes width increments. then tighten ALL 3 IP mounting nuts and start engine. you are getting close on the timing when you get a slight haze of black smoke under a good amount of acceleration. the sound of the engine should change some as well. it should sound a little bit like a PSD. a little louder and more rattle to it. if you over advance the timing then you might burn up glow plugs, but don't get to worried about that if you make small timing changes at a time.
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From: Oregon
Before you loosen the IP, it's a good idea to use a razor blade and score a small mark from the IP to the housing where they meet, so you have a reference point of where you started.
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Yes, that is a good point unless of course the timing marks are allready lined up.
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From: Oregon
I learned to do that the hard way when I was new to diesels. Used a marker, which of course rubbed off, and wouldn't be all that accurate to begin with. The razor works like a charm though, would've saved me from having to buy a pulse adapter had I known...
Factory oil sending unit will be in the rear top of the block, behind the CDR (tuna can on the back of the intake). Not the easiest to reach and remove, but it's back there.
Factory oil sending unit will be in the rear top of the block, behind the CDR (tuna can on the back of the intake). Not the easiest to reach and remove, but it's back there.
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