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Hey guys, my tranny is leaking a lot and that's both causing me trouble and wasting a lot of ATF. I'm planning on replacing the gasket (probably with RTV, since the other types are very expensive around these parts), which seems to be the main cause. Now, i would like to hear any info or recomendations you guys have before going about it: which RTV temp. range would be better?, what to do with the ATF (it's basically new)?, are there any special tools required?, is there something else i should check while i'm in there?, how should i go about the whole procedure?.
IF you are going to use rtv, wich I dont reccomend, The permatex ultra black seems pretty good. The problem is that you need to have both surfaces dry to get a good seal, and the fluid will run out of the trans and get onto the sealing surface. It would be a good time to replace the filter while you're in there so if you get a trans service kit it will have the gasket and filter.
Use a gasket or RTV. Not both. Since Ford designed that sealing surface for a gasket, then it is wise to follow their lead.
People seem to love RTV and many times, I see it causing more harm than good. The problem with too much RTV [very common] is what you see oozing out the side of the pan is the same amount as what is oozing on the inside. RTV does wonders when it breaks loose and gets into the hydraulics. You should see almost no RTV oozing out. All that you do see is excess. What you see does nothing about sealing. Probably the #1 reason why they don't use RTV.
If I were you, buy a couple studs and nuts. By using a couple studs [180 degrees from each other] when you go to install the pan, the pan stays aligned so you can get all the other bolts started. I don't know about you, but it's a pain to align the pan, gasket, and bolt holes to put in a bolt. Studs and a couple nuts make life so much easier.
Two things, first, make sure your transmission pan edges are true flat and square. Second, torque to specs.
Most leak because of over torquing and warping the pan, regardless of material used.
also good to point out that using RTV on a gasket is the equivalent of stacking three gaskets and then hoping you dont blow out or suck in (Depending on application)
The RTV aspect as described by butcher is just further because it could separate and then be pumped into the transmission
I would never use RTV nor an old cork gasket on a trans pan. I would use a cork gasket first but I'd never use RTV. In this day and age, there's no reason not to be using re-usable rubber pan gaskets. I stopped using cork gaskets many, many years ago. The best ones even have steal cores inside, though, I've never had issues with normal rubber gaskets without it either. Use a torque wrench and properly snug them down, this is the most important part. Like stated, don't assume someone before you did, and ensure your pan is flat and if it's not, pound the pan back flat and check any stripped threads. Now is the time to heli-coil any stripped out.
E4OD pan bolts are 10-12 ft-lbs.
FYI;
For any other future researchers (I see this thread has lots of views over the years)
You can upgrade to 4R100 trans pans too. This is a good time. The common ones are all E4OD 4wd depth, so you'd use them with the deeper 4wd pickup filters too. They have drain plugs. The part number is: #F81Z-7A194-BA
You can use them for 2wd trucks (w/ 4wd filters), wherever ground clearance isn't a concern (custom lowered trucks).
note if you wanted to go to the elastomeric pan gasket you would need new bolts and a new pan for a 2wd e4od (96.5-97) or a 4wd 4r100 (comes with a drain bolt) or a 4wd e4od (doesnt have drain bolt but 96.5 or later)
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