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clicking noise upon acceleration

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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 09:17 AM
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clicking noise upon acceleration

I have a 2001 F-150 2WD extended cab, 4.6 Triton, with 235,000 miles. Over the weekend I was towing approx 2500 lbs. (I tow with this truck all the time). When I accelerate normally (or heavy) from a dead stop, I hear a mechanical clicking noise coming from the rear end, or the center of the truck. (sounds like metal on metal) It appears to click one time per tire revolution. Once I get past 15 MPH, the noise stops. If I punch the accelerator when Im going faster than 15 MPH, it does not make any noise. If I accelerate slowly, I do not hear a noise at all.
I checked the U-joints, they are tight. I pulled off the rear wheels, and checked for play, all appears to be ok. There were no loose parts in the brakes.
Any ideas?
Thank you in advance.
Dan
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 12:39 PM
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I would still say U joint. Being tight is fine but are they dry and tight such that the rollers wore groves in the cross tee bearing surface.
After all you have the 235k on it. Time to expect anything.
Good luck.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 01:19 PM
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When you check for U joints, did you block the wheels and put it in neutral to relieve the stress on the drivetrain? I have missed them before by not putting the truck in neutral.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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When I checked the drive shaft, I did not block the wheels, and put it in neutral, nor did I check to see if they were dry with grooves in the cross tee's.
I will do that after supper this evening.
Thank you Bluegrass, and Brutl for your input.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 10:00 AM
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OK. I checked the universals the way Brutl suggested. The front end is tight, and dry. The rear end is loose (I can see about 3/16" play). I would think I need new U-Joints. Is this correct?
Also, I have never changed U-Joints before. Are they fairly easy to change, or do I need some type of press?
Thanks again guys.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 11:30 AM
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....The snapping/tinkling noise is the driveshaft radiating the sound the flat roller bearings make when they suddenly move instead of roll smoothly under torque loads.
....Replacing the cross joints can be difficult if you don't have a large enough vice to hold the the assembly or a press to do it on.
....Bearings are in cups on the driveshaft and end unit ears that hold the roller bearings on the cross tees.
....There are lock rings that need to be removed from each cup's outer locking groove first.
....The cups need to either be driven or pressed through/out enough so the assembly can come apart. The bores are straight through.
....Reassembly is obvious except you don't want to drive/ press the new cups in to far and bind the movement against the cross tee. If that happens you got a bit of a problem lossening it up again without possible damage to the new parts.
....This all has to be done and still keep the roller bearings in place during assembly by loading the cups some with heavey grease to help keep them in place.
....Not doing it before makes it a real job but repeated experience makes up for it if no press is available.
Good luck.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 08:53 AM
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Thanks Bluegrass!!!

I did it last night. Not nearly as bad as I anticipated. The hardest part was removing the retaining rings. Thanks for your play by play Bluegrass.
Appears to be working great. I tested it with a loaded trailer, and no noise at all!!! I have a smoother ride too.
Thanks again to all.

Dan
 
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 09:06 AM
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Great ending.
Good luck.
 
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