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250A Alternator and Power Inverter project

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Old 08-14-2011, 10:23 PM
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250A Alternator and Power Inverter project

I have mentioned this in several other threads, but decided to start a new one ........

Since installing the 250A DC-Power alternator (very pleased so far with it) and upgrading the alternator/battery wiring (including the main ground wire) to 2/0 gauge (cables made by Interstate Battery and a local battery company), I have finally installed the wiring set-up for a power inverter.

Project:
1. 250A DC Power Alternator
2. Install a 300A Battery Isolator near the passenger side battery:
Power-Gate Dual-Rectrfier Isolator from Perfect Switch (model DR300).
made by Perfect Switch - Mossfet Technology:
Perfect Switch, LLC » Dual Rectifier Isolator
3. Install a 300A fuse at the battery isolator to the secondary battery bank
4. Locate two additional batteries (Group 34 AGM Marine Deep Cycle) on the frame rail in E-Series battery boxes. Each rated at 50 Amp-Hour (these were bought from the battery company helping me - pretty good deal at the time).
5. Run 2/0 gauge wire to the secondary battery bank.
6. Install an isolation swith just prior to the first of the two additional batteries.
7. Wire the batteries in parallel
8. Wire in a pigtail for the Power Inverter (it will not be hardwired in - it will be connectable when needed).
5. Install an inverter (tbd) - sizing 2000W

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  #2  
Old 08-14-2011, 10:57 PM
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I ordered the DC-250, they sent me a DC-270 no complaints here. I run a large DC compressor on mine it will spin up to full speed even with the truck idling. I do a lot of night driving, my lights are brighter as well.
 
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Old 08-14-2011, 11:03 PM
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Mark,
Outstanding... What do you plan on powering with this setup?
 
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Old 08-14-2011, 11:38 PM
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Wow, good job! Looks awesome.
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:28 AM
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Have you considered using two 6V golf cart batteries wired in series, instead of the 12V in parallel. I know this is what many of the RV'ers do in their big RV's. Although I don't entirely understand the benefit, unless the golf cart batteries are better designed for continual deep discharge and recharge.
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Troy Buenger
Mark,
Outstanding... What do you plan on powering with this setup?
Apprecate it Troy!

Main use is for tools at the deer lease. Lots of 110 tools (tree trimmers, drills, sawzall, skill saw, etc). Just didn't want to mess w/ a generator, even though it would have been much cheaper.

Now I can also run air compressors, auxilliary lights, winch, etc off of a battery bank that is charged by the alternator but will not deplete the starting battery bank. Running accessories while high idling will give me plenty of time to do the more time consuming jobs. Most of the work will be in short durations.

I must admit - this was a pain for me to design and install. Glad it is done!

Winch or lights are next!
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:22 PM
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Mark,

You've got better documentation than most parts we PAY to buy!
Great info - good luck this season!
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:21 PM
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Looks good bismic! The battery boxes worked out sweet, and the cables look like they belong there. Is the inverter going in the bed? How big is the inverter?
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:03 PM
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Thanks Rusty!

Gearloose was trying to talk me into a 3000W inverter. I really appreciated his advice, and it would be great, but I just can't afford it. It will be a 2000W inverter, most likely a Xantrex ProWatt SM 2000.

I won't be mounting it in the bed. I will plug it in when I need it. I will have a "cradle" for it that will sit on the running board. That should suit my needs for now.
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic
Apprecate it Troy!

Main use is for tools at the deer lease. Lots of 110 tools (tree trimmers, drills, sawzall, skill saw, etc). Just didn't want to mess w/ a generator, even though it would have been much cheaper.

Now I can also run air compressors, auxilliary lights, winch, etc off of a battery bank that is charged by the alternator but will not deplete the starting battery bank. Running accessories while high idling will give me plenty of time to do the more time consuming jobs. Most of the work will be in short durations.

I must admit - this was a pain for me to design and install. Glad it is done!

Winch or lights are next!
Mark,
Sounds like you planned it out very well. Keep us posted on your next upgrade with the Winch or Lights. If the drought continues the Lights maybe a better investment over a Winch.

Deer season is just around the corner. It's been so dry I havn't had to put my truck into 4x4 this entire year due to the drought. I was at our deer camp this weekend and just put it into 4x4 mode just to coat the front diff and tranfer case internals with oil.
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:52 PM
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Yeah, they say no significant rain for months ahead - although we did get a short shower at the house yesterday. The lease looks awful ..... SO terribly dry! It may be a bad year for deer, but the white wing are everywhere. The year won't be a total loss though. I took a nice Axis buck a few months back. Just got the mount back. Pretty nice. It is less than an inch away from the "bronze" class. Good luck this year on your place!
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dchamberlain
Although I don't entirely understand the benefit, unless the golf cart batteries are better designed for continual deep discharge and recharge.
Yes, golf cart batteries...like trolling motor batteries are designed for deep discharges. Unlike your car/truck battery that's designed to discharge allot of power quickly to start the ride.
 
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:02 PM
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The marine deep cycle batteries I installed are supposed to do well at the deep discharges. I doubt that I will ever test it that much though. I don't have a problem w/ running on high idle if I am doing more than an hours worth of work. Appreciate the ideas though!
 
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:24 AM
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I use the Deka marine deep cycle batteries and they work great. I got a ski boat with a custom 1300 watt stereo system and I am constantly draining the batteries with running the stereo while not having the boat on. But also the boat has a 350 Gm vortec block in it but the alternator doesnt put out enough power to keep the batteries charged while the stereo is running. And since I can't put a higher output alternator on without changing the whole engine wire harness. I installed a battery tender. It works really well and might be useful to you bismic. Its fully waterproof so can be mounted anywhere but it will give both your batteries a full charge until they hit their maximum charge then the charger drops the voltage back to a trickel charge.

Here is a link to the battery tender.
ProMariner :: Products :: battery charger

I'm also interested in seeing some pictures of where you mounted your inverter
 
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Old 06-25-2012, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic
I have mentioned this in several other threads, but decided to start a new one ........

Since installing the 250A DC-Power alternator (very pleased so far with it) and upgrading the alternator/battery wiring (including the main ground wire) to 2/0 gauge (cables made by Interstate Battery and a local battery company), I have finally installed the wiring set-up for a power inverter.

Project:
1. 250A DC Power Alternator
2. Install a 300A Battery Isolator near the passenger side battery:
Power-Gate Dual-Rectrfier Isolator from Perfect Switch (model DR300).
made by Perfect Switch - Mossfet Technology:
Perfect Switch, LLC » Dual Rectifier Isolator
3. Install a 300A fuse at the battery isolator to the secondary battery bank
4. Locate two additional batteries (Group 34 AGM Marine Deep Cycle) on the frame rail in E-Series battery boxes. Each rated at 50 Amp-Hour (these were bought from the battery company helping me - pretty good deal at the time).
5. Run 2/0 gauge wire to the secondary battery bank.
6. Install an isolation swith just prior to the first of the two additional batteries.
7. Wire the batteries in parallel
8. Wire in a pigtail for the Power Inverter (it will not be hardwired in - it will be connectable when needed).
5. Install an inverter (tbd) - sizing 2000W


Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but whats the purpose of the isolator switch at the 2nd battery bank? The isolator up front should limit any back-flow of power, so the only purpose I see for the switch is if you don't want the 2nd battery bank charging.

Just wondering as I'm currently working on almost the exact same setup, but I was simply going to put a fuse at the 2nd battery bank. I never even considered a switch, but I'm wondering if there's a reason that I should.


I'm putting together almost the exact same setup - I already have the boxes mounted and am beginning to look at the wiring and isolating. I spoke to Scott at Perfect Switch a while back and was leaning towards the same isolator that you're using (but man, they're pricey!!! ).

Also, I'm going to be running the wires up into the bed of the truck and using the same anderson connectors that you have to connect an inverter, and provide power to a distribution block.

As soon as I have everything wired up, then I'm going to look into upgrading to the 250A alternator.


You have an awesome setup there - I hope mine looks half as good when/if I get it done!



JR
 


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