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I have a rusted piece of tin with a 2" tube going from manifold up to air cleaner,,what is the name of that part and where i might find one as I had to change my manifold gasket and that piece fell apart. My truck has a 300 6
thanks
There are 5 different possibilities for that shroud. What year, Cali emissions or not, over or under 8500 GVWR. Without full info, it's real hard to determine what you need, or whether it's still available. If you do find one, it'll probably be NOS, or a repop, because JY finds are usually in the same shape as the one you have, or worse.
I have a rusted piece of tin with a 2" tube going from manifold up to air cleaner,,what is the name of that part and where i might find one as I had to change my manifold gasket and that piece fell apart. My truck has a 300 6.
Your 'About Me' profile sez 1985 F150, is that what this part is for? If so...
E4TZ-9A603-A .. Pre Heat Shroud-includes Tube, attaches to exhaust manifold / Obsolete
The engine is 1985 300, 4sp,4x4,, converted to non feedback carb and duraspark11 so I assume the heatriser manifold is original equipment,,,Canadian truck so I don't know about Cali emmisions. Currently searching for the part online and nothing yet,,may have to make one by the sounds of it..Still a few weeks before the snow flies up here
I know. Makes you want to say stuff, huh? That's ok, When he can't get out the front door, and we're still running around in shorts and t-shirts........
If you are running a carb, computer controlled or not, you need that piece, and yes, get ready to make one. It's worth all the effort though. You can test that it's working by starting the truck cold. The flapper door should be closed in the aircleaner, and as it runs, you should be able to feel the flex hose going from your homemade shield up to the air cleaner, starting to get warm as it pulls warm air up from around the exhaust manifold.
I have had to fiddle with the temp control sensor to get it working sometimes. You can pry the plastic cover off it, and you can see it has a screwdriver adjustment that controls the tension on the bi-metal spring. Once I mess with them, they seem to work ok after that.
One thing I have found out also, if you get the vacuum lines mixed up on the sensor, it will not work correctly. It will pull the door shut and then the door will tend not to re-open. That's because the vacuum has to "exhaust" through the valve from the flapper motor so it will release. I can't tell you which line goes where, I just swap them around till it works correctly.
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