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Old Apr 2, 2003 | 01:56 AM
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360 to 390?

I have a '71 F250 with a 360 2 barrel. The botom end is starting to knock upon startup. I changed the rear seal last fall and noted that the lower rear main was 'brassy'.... Other than this problem the engine runs great, lots of power, doesn't smoke, burn or leak any oil. Should I throw in a set of bearings and a new high volume oil pump?

Next scenario....I have the opportunity to pick up a '75 390 4 barrel engine for $300 CDN(includes holly carb). This engine is supposed to run well but smokes on startup (supposedly valve seals). I can imagine a set of valve seals are alot cheaper than bearings... Will the 360 heads swap onto the 390? I'm assuming that a set of '71 360 heads wouldn't have the 'smog-bumps' in the exhaust passages. Or am I off the mark here?

At this point in time I want to lengthen the life span of the truck without tossing a couple grand into rebuilding either the 360 or this other 390. Any input is appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2003 | 01:58 AM
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360 to 390?

One other thing.... I'm not sure if the 390 was an automatic or stick truck. My truck is a C6. Will the 360 flex plate swap over to the 390?
 
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Old Apr 2, 2003 | 03:52 PM
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360 to 390?

The 360 and 390 flywheel/flexplate is exactly the same. From the sounds of it I think a complete rebuild is in order. The heads are also exactly the same. The only difference between the later model truck 360/390 is crank, rods and pistons. Everything else is identical.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2003 | 07:39 PM
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360 to 390?

Thanks for the info.
It's not that I don't want to do a complete rebuild..I just can't justify the cost right now. Maybe in the fall...
 
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Old Apr 3, 2003 | 05:56 AM
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360 to 390?

Steve, I suggest that you just wait until this fall to start the project. Sometimes we rush things and want to fix things that aint quite broke yet. Close only counts in target practice and horse shoes.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2003 | 08:23 AM
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From: suburban atlanta
360 to 390?

If you saw copper, the bearings are gone... Boo hoo. The engine you are thinking of buying could be just a few miles behind your engine as far as internal wear. You are buying a pig in a poke. It is 28 years OLD... and surely the oil was changed every 3 thousand, and the plugs points.... you get it. You know nothing about the other engines service or wear condition. You know your own.
Unless the seller really knows where the used engine came from, and will stand behind it, you are going to spend a lot of $$ and time swapping the engine and maybe only to end up with a smoker...
Save your bucks and wait to do it right. Drive gently when it is cold, and it will last a long time before it goes. good luck. I used to swap the rod inserts top for bottom on stove bolt 6 engines when I did my $30 overnight ring jobs. Put the copper side on the bottom in the rod cap. Less load... Had no money, but had the time. Sure did stop the oil burning, though.
tom
 
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Old Apr 3, 2003 | 11:03 AM
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360 to 390?

Don't worry about startup knock. Just don't rev the engine untill the oil pressure comes up. Keep it full of clean oil and drive it. These engines will go thousands of miles with a little rattle on startup. When you can afford it build a 390 engine.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2003 | 05:08 PM
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From: Cold Lake Canada
360 to 390?

Thanks for the info gang.
I bought that 390 today for $250 CDN what's that in USD like $49.95...LOL

Engine is complete carb (4 barrel holly) to oil pan.
Any Mopar lovers lurking in here? They have a 340 4 barrel already pulled and are asking $400 for it...

Lots of neat older stuff at this yard and their not even in the white pages never mind yellow..

The yard owner has a 74 F350 Camper Special with 390-4barrel that has less than 30,000 original miles on it......Pretty big yard to..
 
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