i searched and all i got was old(05-07) threads. only one was what i was looking for but not enough info. the others were manual trannys.

so the question is, can i and how can i add a remote start to the 7.3 idi and e4od?

not looking to buy one right now and put it in, it will be purchased later on in the year. just gathering info now. so i wont have a quick update on its success lol

 

there are loads of these on the market today.pretty easy on the wallet some of them.
if i were going to add one(i just might before winter),id just make sure it could connect to the WTS light rather than just a basic timer if this helps any.

 

Yes I have one in stalled on one of my 6.9 trucks works really well!! Just make sure the remote start you buy (mine is also an alarm system with paging function) has the extra feed wire for diesel engines. Just tap that wire into the pink WTS light and it will wait 4 seconds after it goes out to start the engine. Then it uses either a signal wire from the tach or a preset time in seconds for starter cranking.

 

how about those of us with push button glow plugs?

 

I would think you'd need to be out at the truck with the manual GPs, which would defeat the point of remote start...

Probably need a properly functioning glow plug controller...

 

wouldn't work.she wouldn't glow the plugs and just ware out the starter trying to start.
if your the type of guy who likes more modern features,then you'd like the updated '87+ glow plug system anyway.so id do that first,and then the remote start.
its not that a fixed pre-'87 system wouldn't work fine with remote start,it's just if yours needs to be replaced anyway,why replace the old gal with another failure prone (they are known for failing in the ON position and burning out plugs.)

 

i figure there is, just the only ones i looked at said a big no for diesel


im looking for more of starter/keyless. dont really care for an alarm, but if its cheap enough id deal with it.
what system do you have? model#
why 4sec wait after wts? i normally crank right after it goes out(if the wts chooses to work at all)

i would think you could branch off some relay between the switch and glow plugs that would get them going through the remote




now that i realize using the wts light. i need to fix it. whether its sat all night at 75*-ish, driven an hour ago, few hours ago, the wts light picks when it works and doesnt. some days it sits all night, wts is on, goes off and starts just fine right away. other mornings no light at all, so i wait ~8secs and crank and it cranks more before it starts. same issue(except the slower starts) even when warmed up to where the light should stay on a second or two

glow plug relay? loose wires to the relay?

 

yup.a glow plug relay.

 

first place to check would be the ground wire on your relay.sounds like you have some corrosion since it's working intermittently.plus,it's free.i always like to eliminate things by trying what doesn't cost anything first.

the mornings where you don't get a WTS light at all,is also when the volt meter doesn't do anything either right?

your right in your thinking that you want to fix this asap,because its harder on the batteries,starter,alternator.just harder on the starting and charging system in general.more so come cold weather of course.for sure need this address before the remote start.this way when you hit the button from inside the warm house,she's going to spin and fire right up and start blowing heat by the time your done with the morning coffee and get out there to sweep off the white stuff.

ahh ok,i just talked myself into it.i'll be adding remote start too lol. god dang cold.hit the button to fire her up,run into the plow,plug in the two plugs and hop into a warm cab.sounds good.
i can even easily trigger my e-fans to spin on slow and easy so she wont overheat,just in case i take my sweet time drinking two cups of coffee first lol.


does it also trigger the high idle solenoid?

 

no the volt meter jumps from around 13 volts to 10 volts along with a 'tick' inside the cab. over and over, pauses in between. sometimes it doesnt do it much, sometimes a lot. i want to say it does it even if the wts is on..
sometimes itll continue even after the truck is running, but only 3 times at most.

ill check it out tomorrow. i think i pulled a muscle around my ribs/chest from getting in the thing lol (10" lift, 36" micky bajas)

 

ah ok.something to do with just the WTS light then.cus that's normal operation of the GP controller.it will glow at first for a period of 3-14 seconds (this depends on how cold it is) then once the WTS light goes out (or once you see it has stopped pegging the volt needle) only then do you want to turn the engine over/crank.
next (this is kinda an old school bummer part of the system) you want to step to the floor (or not really "next" i like to do it while im waiting for the light to go out) this sets the electrical high idle solenoid.you could set it up on a switch or a relay to always set via the trigger of the WTS light though i suppose,now that i think of it.but then come warm weather,you don't really need a fast idle,so probably sticking via old school peddle to the floor method works lol.or of course with remote start set it up to trigger on.
release the pedle right off the bat though,don't crank with it down for anything.anyway hit the key asap once the light goes out,cus;
next the jumping volt meter after the initial cycle is called "afterglow" this helps the engine stay running (when real cold) or just smoother running at least (if not real cold) at the first start.it's a nice system really.

 

if its the light then why do i get hard starts when the light doesnt work at all? i wait about 8-10 seconds, same as when its cold and the light works.
is it best to wait until the ticking stops to start? sometimes it keeps doing it ever after the working light goes out(without the truck running). if the light works i usually crank it after the light turns off, even if its still ticking. and sometimes the ticking stops before the light turns off lol
this is confusing lol

and i thought afterglow was if 2+ plugs were bad to keep them from spiking in voltage?

 

well,since your light isn't working sometimes.it may be confusing you,if your not exacly sure how the system works.so it's hard to say.
you could have a combination of a bad ground and a corroded WTS light wire.wouldn't surprise me to have both.
remove the air cleaner and inspect the wires.make sure they are all nice an clean.remove them one a time (caution that big red one is live all the time!!! careful you don't short something out...best to unhook the main bats first before cleaning that one up.)shine 'em all up and bolt them back on.could cure all that ails it.
if no go; seek the gp sticky thread for all the details.

edit;
hey your in Virginia,just breath down the intake and she'll fire right up in the middle of winter down there you lucky SOB lol.

 

where is the controller? under the air intake?

 

yeah,kinda sorta i guess.its behind it on the pass side.you can just see it with the air cleaner still on.take it off,and you can't miss it,and can get to it easy.
i should take a look at mine tomorrow and make sure to clean it up good again.
im going trough winterizing my truck now,so i won't have to do so in the snow bank and -20 below wind chills.
shoot,this reminds me too.i need to rig up a small heat resistant blanket type of deal so my coolant filter can make my fuel filter nice and toasty. don't want to be on the side of the road because of a gelled up fuel filter again this year.that wasn't fun.my one and only breakdown.i won't let it happen twice.
hey maybe i'll even test to see if my block heater works or not this year lol.