Spark Plugs
More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 669
Likes: 7
From: Tennessee
Get a new gasket. You might be better off removing the throttle body and cleaning it as well since the IAC is a real pain to get off. Other than remove some carbon buildup in the seat area there is not much you can do with the IAC. Mine was not carboned up but it would only work when hot. I am of the notion that if it is not causing problems leave it be. I would leave the IAC alone and use some gumout to clean the throttle valve area. Some recommend cleaning the MAF but there again if it is not broke why fix it. I think most problems are caused by using K&N air cleaners that deposit dirt on the sensor wire. Now is the time to hose all the crap off your engine before you change the plugs. Just make sure you get all the water out of the plug bores before removing the spark plugs. Always best to clean an engine before opening anything up. Think surgeon here. You might want to clean the PVC valve. It will probably have gunk in it. Cleaning is as good or better than replacing.
Oh yes before you remove the plugs blow the bores out with air and as recommended above NEVER change a plug hot.
Perry
Oh yes before you remove the plugs blow the bores out with air and as recommended above NEVER change a plug hot.
Perry
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
I'm not so sure how debatable it is regarding changing them on a cold engine. A quick search shows that every manufacturer of aluminum heads I ran across recomends cold or risk possible thread damage due to different expansion properties of aluminum vs steel. Champion and NGK also say the same thing. Yes, one may get away with it numerous times with no damage. I figure why risk it? Besides, it's no fun to change them when the engine is hot.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
It's important to keep the plug holes clean and free of water. I have a little compressor going with an air nozzle when I change my plugs. Many missing problems are due to junk in the holes which is why I highly recommend using heavy grease around the top of the boots under the lip when you re-install them, even though it isn't dialectric. When dirt gets in there followed by water after a rain it will ruin your boots and cause a short.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 72
Likes: 1
From: Merrimack NH
I finished the spark plug and COP boot change yesterday without a hitch. The only real problem I had was with the 2 rear plugs on the passenger side. When I tried to remove the coil packs the rubber boot remained stuck onto the plug. It took me a while to get a pair of pliers in there to grab hold of the boot so that I could remove it. A little patience and a ice cold beer did the trick. I also took the time to clean the throttle body and now the truck runs awesome. I can't even tell it's running when I'm stopped at a light, not bad for 190,000 miles. Thanks to all who replied to my first post and helping me get through this job.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
I finished the spark plug and COP boot change yesterday without a hitch. The only real problem I had was with the 2 rear plugs on the passenger side. When I tried to remove the coil packs the rubber boot remained stuck onto the plug. It took me a while to get a pair of pliers in there to grab hold of the boot so that I could remove it. A little patience and a ice cold beer did the trick. I also took the time to clean the throttle body and now the truck runs awesome. I can't even tell it's running when I'm stopped at a light, not bad for 190,000 miles. Thanks to all who replied to my first post and helping me get through this job.
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