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Hello,
I am looking into buying the above truck and had a question regarding the bed. It looks like the current material is a piece of heavy gauge metal welded into the bed. When I look up under the truck I can see slats of wood between the frame and this metal. Was the original bed wood? I looked up the parts in the LMC catalog and they show a wood kit for this model truck but I can't tell if this was standard or after market. Also, the owner is saying that the engine is a 400ci but according to the tag it came with a 352. Any way to tell if this is the original engine? Any other items specific to this model I should look for before purchasing?
Thanks
Dan
As original, Flaresides had wood bed floors, and the wood was painted body color, not stained and varnished like you see today on myriad 'restorations.'
The wood was pine originally, came from FoMoCo's own forests located in Iron Mountain MI
The wood is available from repro parts sellers in either oak or pine (also comes with the hardware), is usually pre-rabbeted but has no finish.
In between the wood slates are metal divider strips. These are also reproduced.
400 not offered in F100/350's until 1977. FE engines (352/390/428 and etc) have 5 valve cover bolt holes per side, 400's have 8.
Most sellers haven't a single clue what size the engine is. And, don't believe a single word that a seller claims.
Private sellers can lie just as well as used/new car dealers, lawyers...and politicians.
1966/67 F100/350: If a 352 originally, the 4th digit of the VIN will be Y
Thanks for the info. I looked at the pics I took of the truck and the valve covers do have the 8 bolts so someone did a swap out at some point in time. I think I am going to go ahead and pull the trigger and pick it up. It's driveable and I can get it for under $2000. Attached are a few picks and I would welcome any comments
Hey partner, you might try some price negotiations before pullin the trigger. I see a few non original things in your pic's, not to mention no paint as well as a bed "cover up . These guys here have all the experience you need to settle on a price. If you're thinking about a future original resto, be sure you ask these guys a few more questions have a great day
Or...it could be a 351C. All have 8 valve cover bolt holes per side The fuel pump bolts to the left (drivers) side of the block, since there is no timing cover (just a flat plate).
The pump is unique as it has its mounting holes at 12 & 6 o'clock. All other pumps have the mounting holes at 9 & 3 o'clock.
Do the brake lights work ??? I doubt it as the wires arent on the switch at the end of the master cylinder...and whats with the pipe thing on the RH fender apron at the rear..heater hoses typically run along the crease area of the fender apron roughly...also its missing the window washer bag and the throttle cable exit out of the firewall is off alot vs original
If the dash is hacked or doors cut for speakers those arent easy to remedy to fix if doing an original type setup...Rustout areas...rear cab corners...front cab mounts, center floor crossmember in cab, inside lower kick panel areas...open the floor vents and put your hand in...the area you see from bottom of vent to floor on interior is same size as vent area...typically filled with crap...the drain hole is big, but commonly neglected...easily seen from bottom of cab behind lower fender mounting area.
The brake lights do work. They have a switch on the break pedal. It looks like they disconnected the heater hoses and spliced them together. I did a test drive today and the steering/alignment is horrible. It has a 4 speed tranny and 1st gear is a creeper. You can barely go 10 feet before having to shift. Most of the body is in alright shape. There is some rust areas and it looks like they replaced sections of the floor in a non professional manner. The car was manufactured in Dallas and has stayed here for it's life so that helps with the rust. After the drive I made them an offer $400 less than their asking price. I guess I'll continue to keep my eyes open for a classic pickup.
Thanks
Dan
The brake lights do work. They have a switch on the brake pedal.
No Ford truck had the stop (brake) light switch mounted on the brake pedal until 1967.
1961/66 as original: The two pronged pressure activated stop light switch either threads directly into the master cylinder, or threads into a brass block that threads into the master cylinder (all-at the front of it).
The ONLY way a 1961/66 could have a pedal mounted stop light switch...is, if someone either installed a dual master cylinder from a 1967 or later vehicle, or...
Installed disc brakes from a 1973/79, a dual master cylinder, and a brake differential proportioning valve.
Since this truck still has its original single pot master cylinder, it doesn't have a dual master cylinder, and I doubt it has swapped in disc brakes.