Hi,

I'm looking for detailed instructions on how to remove the ignition lock from the steering column of my 96 E-350. I've done this before on a 90 bronco, so I'm not flying completely blind, but the steering colum on the E-350 seems a little different.

The other day I was stuck for over two hours in the parking lot, and was finally able to turn the key by wiggling the steering wheel, but it was a bit unnerving. So for now I'm having to leave the key in the off-unlocked position.

Any help would be greatly appriciated.

Cheers,
Tim

 

I'll try...........

Remove the lower half of the steering column shroud, typically three screws in deep recesses, #2 Phillips screwdriver. Once out of the way look straight up just under the lock cylinder housing and find what looks like a ball bearing that can be pushed in (or upwards in this orientation). Using a probe or the Phillips screwdriver hold this ball while turning the ignition to the On position and you should feel the ball move deeper inside the housing. At this point the entire lock cylinder can be removed.

Without a replacement lock cylinder available to immediately replace the removed one the ignition will still be on with the only way to turn it off is disconnect the battery. I recently replaced my own but had the OEM part in hand and already keyed to existing locks so it was maybe a five minute job.

Hope this helps even a little!

 

I'd try what Haynes '92-'01 recommends........

Don't remove any part of the steering column shroud.

Look straight up from below steering column & directly under the ignition lock cylinder you should see a hole thru the plastic shroud, just for this purpose.

For safety, to eliminate risk of deploying airbag, Haynes recommends disconnecting negative battery cable.

Turn key to Run position & nothing at all should turn "On". Note the key's angle so you can duplicate it accurately when reinstalling lock cylinder.

Insert a 1/8" drill, or similar diameter tool, thru hole in trim shroud & find corresponding hole in ignition lock housing just inside.

Use this probe to depress (push up on) what Haynes calls "the retaining pin" in this housing's hole, while pulling out on lock cylinder by its 'ears'. Grumpy locks may require a little wiggling.

You can R&R an ignition lock cylinder literally in seconds, if willing to ignore the warning to disconnect battery ground.

Note: A typical "#2 Philips screwdriver" is ~1/4" diameter & may not fit in "retaining pin" hole in lock cylinder housing.

 

Having actually done this procedure exactly as I outline works much better for someone who might have never done this replacement. Removing the lower shroud allows someone to see the ball detent which is far far easier than trying to locate it blindly through the shroud.

The new lock cylinder will fit into its housing and fit into the sliding switch collar only one way so this goes very easily.

Yes one can disconnect the POSITIVE battery terminal and wait as much as five mintues before replacing the ignition lock---that's honestly a matter of perference and I've yet to see any locksmith or mechanic do this and never heard of an airbag mishap. An errant undetected ground to the air bag system could allow trigger deployment which Haynes and the other generic repair manuals seem to miss. From my Ford OEM repair manual, copied verbatim:

WARNING:
THE ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT FOR AIR BAG DEPLOYMENT IS POWERED DIRECTLY FROM THE BATTERY
(10653) AND BACKUP POWER SUPPLY. TO AVOID ACCIDENTAL DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY, THE BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE MUST BE DISCONNECTED FOR A MINIMUM OF ONE MINUTE
BEFORE BEGINNING WORK TO DE-ENERGIZE THE BACKUP POWER SUPPLY.


Note: A #2 Phillips DOES indeed work on the ball detent as my hands on actual experience has proved more than a few times. It needs depressed perhaps 3/16" in order to release the cylinder from its housing. An 1/8" drill bit doesn't reach the detent from outside the shroud but a round shank #2 Phillips does--again from practical, hands on experience.

Tommygyu PM me and I should be able to print out and forward a copy of the Ford Repair manual complete with illustrations if you're still in need of some help with this!

Sorry if conflicting "advice" isn't helpful----I'm simply offering what I've actually done on my own vehicles and observed professional mechanics doing also.

 

Oddly enough I've "actually done this procedure" too. IMO "someone who" does this procedure by "Removing the lower shroud" then realizes it's completely unnecessary, will never bother again. Even if JWA "observed professional mechanics (or "any locksmith")...Removing lower shroud" doesn't convince me it's "far far easier".

IMO "again from practical, hands on experience" it's actually easier to "locate it blindly through the shroud". In fact I don't even try to look b/c it's so easy to find the hole by touch.

For reader's benefit, using "my hands on actual experience" & '92 Club Wagon, I just confirmed that an ubiquitous Stanley #2 Philips screwdriver DOES NOT fit the hole in the ignition lock housing & CAN NOT be used to remove ignition lock cylinder. Also reconfirmed that "An (ordinary Hanson) 1/8" drill bit ("DOES indeed") reach....from outside the shroud" & will easily release the ignition lock cylinder.

Sorry if this concurs w/Haynes & tends to disprove JWA's "conflicting advice". Of course, we can't assume all '92-'97 Econolines, all Philips #2 screwdrivers, or all 1/8" drills are exactly alike.

Hope this "conflicting advice" is helpful.

 

Note that every '92-'97 FORD Econoline manual I've seen shows ignition key positions: Acc, Lock, Off, Run & Start. None specifically identify "the On position".

Funny, but in my '93 FORD Econoline factory service manual, under "Key Lock Cylinder Components Removal" the 1st thing it says is:

"1. Disconnect battery ground cable."

The 2nd thing it says:

"2. Rotate ignition lock cylinder to RUN position. Using a 1/8-inch drift, depress lock cylinder retaining pin through access hole in lower steering column shroud and remove lock cylinder."

Certaining isn't the 1st time FORD procedures have changed.

The general rule for electrical system safety has been to remove the negative cable first.

Readers might find Google hits on these key words interesting.

Google

 

JWA and Club Wagon:

Wow, thanks for all the info. Sorry for the delay in my reply; things have been kind of hectic, but I still feel bad about taking this long to get back to you guys.

I see no problem with disconnecting the battery, just to be safe; I really don't care about a few extra minutes of trouble. Ditto for the shroud: if it's easy to find the pin I might skip that step, but I have no issue with removing it if I have trouble. As for the implement, I've got eighth inch drill bits, tons of screwdrivers, and everything in between; I'm sure I can find something.

I'll make sure I get the lock cylinder before I do the job. It seems to be in stock at oriellys and autozone, so no problem there.

The negative battery cable should be disconnected first. Here's some links:

If you remove a 12 volt car battery what terminal do you remove first and why? also replacement? - Yahoo! Answers

How to Change a Car Battery - wikiHow <- Look at step eight

Anyway, I'm sure I can manage now; as I said before, I did this once on a bronco, but I was worried that there might be some slight procedural difference that would bollocks me up -- happens a lot when I work on vehicles. The airbag issue was not something I had thought of; considering my luck, however remote the possibility may be, I'm willing to take the extra trouble to guard against that danger.

Thanks again!

 

JWA:

I haven't had a chance to do the job yet, so if it isn't too much trouble to forward the Haynes excerpt, I'd appreciate it. You'll have to pm me though; I only have 17 posts, so I can't send pm's yet. Thanks again.

Cheers,
Tim