If it comes to the point that a HPOP is suspected, what is the course of action?

 

I'm playing the same game right now. truck had been acting weird lately. then there was a violent oil leak, after a top off, new filters... i had a no start... I read through as many threads as i could....

here's a few good reads i found..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html
High Pressure System Diagnostics - 6.0l
No Oil Pressure - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Ford DTC codes & wire chafing locations - TheDieselGarage.com
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...mmy-plugs.html

and bulletins
6.0 PowerStroke bulletins

It's hard to diag without a good scan tool where you can command the IPR, but it's possible. i back proped the icp to check for voltage, with the key on you should see between .16-.28 volts. During cranking you should see at least .8 volts. Anything under that i would lean towards an ipr valve, high pressure oil pump, or high pressure oil system leak... Assuming that you have a good base oil pressure.

I read a tsb saying that during a long crank sometimes oil pressure will not show up on the gauge and that the way to tell if the low pressure system is working is to remove the oil filter and cap, depress the drainback valve with a screwdriver or something similar, and crank. If the oil filter res. fills with in 10 seconds it's safe to assume that the low pressure system is working....

That's how I interpreted it at least.

There's quite a bit involved with these motors as far as what can go wrong. doing the work and diag isn't for those with any stomache conditions that may result in ulcers...

 

OK, when I crank the truck, I have oil pressure registering on the dash gauge so I have oil pressure. Can someone explain the ipr valve?

 

IPR controls the oil flow to the HPOR to fire injectors

ICP reads the HPO psi

 

More general info from the tech folder, Temp and Pressure:

The minimum engine oil pressure (low pressure oil) specifications are 82.7 kPa (12 psi) at 700 rpm, 165.5 kPa (24 psi) at 1,200 rpm and 310.3 kPa (45 psi) at 1,800 rpm with the engine at operating temperature. Low or no pressure could be caused by the oil pressure regulator, gerotor oil pump or an internal lube oil pressure leak. The engine will not start until the PCM reads 500 psi from the ICP (High Pressure Oil). The HPO pressure will range from 625 psi at idle and 4045 max psi with full engine load. a fast idle with no load will be about 1450 psi. This can be checked via the ICP sensor port.

 

Ok, I did some testing this evening on the FICM with the following results. Tested four cycles with same results.
1. Battery voltage 12.5+ VDC
2. Key on voltage 48.7 VDC
3. Cycling of key on/off results in 17.9 VDC then rises to 48.5 in about 3 seconds.
4. Cranking engine, voltage drops to 20 VDC
5. Engine actually started on two attempts for about 1 ½ seconds.
6. Disconnected the ICP and attempted to start, started for about 1 ½ seconds.
7. Reconnected ICP sensor.
8. Checked for codes and detected P2285 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low ( Is this because I disconnected it earlier as advised by Rusty?)
With this being said, is it safe to say it is a failed FICM or is there other things I need to check?

Also, this process drained the batteries almost as if there is a significant load on them more than I would have expected. Batteries less than 10 months old.

 

Looks like you found the culprit. Injectors don't fire if voltage is below 24v or so. Code for ICP would have set when it was unplugged. Definitely charge the batteries. Kinda odd that it would start for a second though. Hopefully others will chime in.

 

you could send your ficm to be fixed or try and fix it your self
theres a how to in the tech folder

my ficm holds 48 volts at all times

 

What is the average turnaround if I were to send one for repair? Also if I were to repair it, does it require anything else (programming) prior to being re-installed?

 

You can try to repair it yourself. If you do mess it up, you may be buying a whole new FICM. Some rebuilders won't touch it if you've tried and failed.

Having it repaired won't require any re-programming. It's very cost effective if you can afford the downtime. The best rebuilders are quick to do the repair and get it sent back.

If minimizing downtime is important, you can replace the half shell yourself. Part price should be <$500+ core from the dealer. You can pull your FICM, remove the half shell, and take it with you to avoid the core fee. No programming necessary with that either. A few hours and it's done. This is for the 4 screw FICM guys only. Half shell not available for 7 screw modules.

 

Thanks for the info William. Can you explain "half shell"?

 

Here's a recent thread about FICM repair/replacement:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s....php?t=1082878

Lots of good feedback here for Ed's work if you can wait for shipping. Many are fixed by just re-flowing solder on power supply side. A local electronics shop can often do a good job if you need the truck now. Might want to print instructions from tech folder to take in with it.

 

Did you do the repairs yourself? If so, how much trouble was the potting compound holding the parts to the board?

 

Thanks Rusty, most likely will send out for repair. I have experiance soldering but don't want to risk it on such an critical component.

 

Any other recommendations on rebuilders? Anyone know of someone in SE Va/NE NC that performs these repairs?