to the hub.
'65 stuck brake drums
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 11,564
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From: Tucson
the front drums are press fit to the hub... back off the adjuster on the shoes and remove the cotter pin/castle nut and pull it off as one unit. then soak the hub and drum w/ wd40 or PB Blaster and have it pressed off at a shop. or DIY
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 123
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From: ?whr down the crazy river
Take the dust cap off and remove the cover, nut and washer from the bearing.
The whole assembly will come off bearings and all.
I guess that is the way they used to replace them back in the day, the drum is fused to the hub. If you didn't break the drum, you may be Okay.
The originals have very little clearance between the two parts and rust together easily.
Edit: Oops too slow, Bill beat me to it.
The whole assembly will come off bearings and all.
I guess that is the way they used to replace them back in the day, the drum is fused to the hub. If you didn't break the drum, you may be Okay.
The originals have very little clearance between the two parts and rust together easily.
Edit: Oops too slow, Bill beat me to it.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,121
Likes: 118
From: Chico, Ca.
You have an F250 according to your profile. My F250 has large slotted screws on the face of the drum. I tried to get mine off with straight up muscle, but I couldn't get enough leverage to break them free. I was advised to use heat and then try again. I have yet do this. In the event the heat doesn't work, the entire wheel can be removed from the spindle. Good luck.
Kurt
Kurt
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
DO NOT use the old studs over again. When removed, the serrations will be flattened out.
If old studs are reused, the drum could "walk away" from the hub, taking the wheel along with it. Not pleasant!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Concord, CA
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: ?whr down the crazy river
Wheel studs
N.D. This is a photograph of one of my '66 Hub and studs.
Are you saying that the studs are without any sort of flange on the internal side? Or is '65 different?
I haven't had reason to separate them but they appear to be a flanged to me.
Would make production quicker, being all pressed together like that and make for more service income if the vehicle lived long enough to need the drums replaced.
Long ago, I know that I removed a drum from the hub on one of these vehicles and I did it without a press.
Are you saying that the studs are without any sort of flange on the internal side? Or is '65 different?
I haven't had reason to separate them but they appear to be a flanged to me.
Would make production quicker, being all pressed together like that and make for more service income if the vehicle lived long enough to need the drums replaced.
Long ago, I know that I removed a drum from the hub on one of these vehicles and I did it without a press.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
The studs (F100 = A9AZ-1107-A) have a shoulder and past it have serrations. It's the serrations that retain the drum to the hub.
The proper procedure is to have the drum pressed off the hub by a machine shop, then have new studs pressed in.
Some peeps hit the studs with a hammer to drive them out, but if the studs come out cattywampus, the holes in the drum could become elongated.
1964/67 F100 2WD: Ford only sold the hub and drum as an assembly (C6TZ-1102-A), the drum was not sold by itself.
The proper procedure is to have the drum pressed off the hub by a machine shop, then have new studs pressed in.
Some peeps hit the studs with a hammer to drive them out, but if the studs come out cattywampus, the holes in the drum could become elongated.
1964/67 F100 2WD: Ford only sold the hub and drum as an assembly (C6TZ-1102-A), the drum was not sold by itself.
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