300 with crazy brake problem
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,177
Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
300 with crazy brake problem
I know this forum is for engines, but I sort of know a lot of you guys and value your opinion, so I wanted to post this here.
About 4 months ago I did the dana 60 rear disc swap, with Caddy calipers for the ebrake, and added a hydroboost unit, Saginaw p/s unit, and the master for a C3500.
When finishing the install it was late and getting dark and I was dying to have it done. In my haste I mistook p/s fluid for brake fluid...and yep, into the new master it went. The next day, after minimal driving I drained the lines to the p.valve and front calipers. I also installed a new master.
So, four months the brakes randomly come on strong by themselves, not locking up, but enough to make me swerve through 3 lanes of LA traffic to get to the shoulder, b/c I can't accelerate!!!
I also notice the fluid in the master is slightly brown tinted, just slightly like brown cool aid. Anyways, I'd love to hear some ideas. Thanks.
About 4 months ago I did the dana 60 rear disc swap, with Caddy calipers for the ebrake, and added a hydroboost unit, Saginaw p/s unit, and the master for a C3500.
When finishing the install it was late and getting dark and I was dying to have it done. In my haste I mistook p/s fluid for brake fluid...and yep, into the new master it went. The next day, after minimal driving I drained the lines to the p.valve and front calipers. I also installed a new master.
So, four months the brakes randomly come on strong by themselves, not locking up, but enough to make me swerve through 3 lanes of LA traffic to get to the shoulder, b/c I can't accelerate!!!
I also notice the fluid in the master is slightly brown tinted, just slightly like brown cool aid. Anyways, I'd love to hear some ideas. Thanks.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
Randomly saw this thread in the list of forums as I dont post or look in here.
Hey I would give these guys a call and ask them. I know they modify hydroboost systems and supply them I bet they would know.
Sources:
VANCO Power Brake Supply
9738 Atlantic Avenue
South Gate, California, 90280
(323) 563-1588 / (800) 256-6295
http://www.vancopbs.com
vancopbs@aol.com
I got this info from here
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading website in the world.
Hey I would give these guys a call and ask them. I know they modify hydroboost systems and supply them I bet they would know.
Sources:
VANCO Power Brake Supply
9738 Atlantic Avenue
South Gate, California, 90280
(323) 563-1588 / (800) 256-6295
http://www.vancopbs.com
vancopbs@aol.com
I got this info from here
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading website in the world.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
With as much work as you put into the whole conversion (and with how important brakes are), I wonder if it'd be worth calling around and seeing how much it would cost for a professional fluid flush to be sure all that power steering fluid is out of there.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
If the hydroboost unit was a junkyard item, I can't help but wonder if it's in need of attention. Dragging brakes are usually caused by either a bad master, or a bad booster. IIRC, you did replace the master after the fluid mix-up. Still, that doesn't rule out the possibility of a bad master.
Another place that can cause brakes to drag, is bad calipers. Were all the calipers rebuilt at the time of the conversion?
Can you determine if it is one wheel, or more? Which one(s)?
Another place that can cause brakes to drag, is bad calipers. Were all the calipers rebuilt at the time of the conversion?
Can you determine if it is one wheel, or more? Which one(s)?
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,182
Likes: 1
P/S fluid is wicked stuff- may be causing your rubber lines and/or seals to swell, thereby holding pressure on the calipers?
this'll be enough to scare you:
Herguth - BRAKE FLUID AND PETROLEUM CONTAMINATION
you may have to replace every soft part...
this'll be enough to scare you:
Herguth - BRAKE FLUID AND PETROLEUM CONTAMINATION
you may have to replace every soft part...
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,177
Likes: 377
From: Near Los Angeles
If the hydroboost unit was a junkyard item, I can't help but wonder if it's in need of attention. Dragging brakes are usually caused by either a bad master, or a bad booster. IIRC, you did replace the master after the fluid mix-up. Still, that doesn't rule out the possibility of a bad master.
Another place that can cause brakes to drag, is bad calipers. Were all the calipers rebuilt at the time of the conversion?
Can you determine if it is one wheel, or more? Which one(s)?
Another place that can cause brakes to drag, is bad calipers. Were all the calipers rebuilt at the time of the conversion?
Can you determine if it is one wheel, or more? Which one(s)?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 9
From: Western Washington
Do you mean off with the key, as in shutting down the engine? That sure sounds like a booster problem, especially if it goes off with the engine. But ouch, I can see why you went with the junkyard one- NAPA lists a reman one (for a 98 astro van) at $350!
Sam
Sam
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,177
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From: Near Los Angeles
There was a day when I went to Napa for quality. But now I have found that on many items they are getting the part from the same rebuilder as the A.Z. and O'reilly's, but charging twice as much and giving a 6 mo. or 1 yr gaurantee, when the other two offer life time.
For example: A.Z. offers a rebuilt hydro unit for about $110. You just have to beware their 'new' duralast stuff, which is Hecho en Mexico.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
Hey, Dusty, thanks for chiming in. Well, it just happened again. It is occurring much more often now. It took the brakes only about half a mile to get to the point where I could hardly park it for overriding the brakes. Got out and checked the rotors. There rears were hot, but the fronts almost burned my fingers. It steers true, showing at least that both front cals are affected.
I've decided to flush the system, and buy a rebuilt hydro. Of course then I have to cut/weld on a new pedal rod to the hydro. Since the problem is temporarily ended when the key is turned off and a 1-2 minute wait, I don't think it could be the master. But the master is still under warranty, so if the new hydro doesn't solve the problem, then I'll swap in a new master. It is just the issue of the slightly brown tint to the b.fluid which bothers me. Should I start with master?
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 625
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 386
Likes: 3
From: Whitmore lake Mi
I post this with all due respect.
F-250 restorer,
I do not know the history behind what provoked you to post what you did but I do believe disrespecting anyone in any language is against the forum rules. I also believe if you think you need to address the issue that is what PM's are for. I would also offer to you that handling it in either manner brings you down to your oppositions level that's what the ignore function is for.
Now with that said as I read through this thread with much interest, because I have limited knowledge of hydro-boost and would like to install it on my Roadster, I was wondering why anyone would continue to drive a vehicle except for test driving under as controlled conditions as you can manage.
Also, I very much appreciate your threads and the information you continue to provide and would hate to see you banned for allowing someone, whom I have no knowledge of, to allow you to drift down that road.
Take Care
Jim
F-250 restorer,
I do not know the history behind what provoked you to post what you did but I do believe disrespecting anyone in any language is against the forum rules. I also believe if you think you need to address the issue that is what PM's are for. I would also offer to you that handling it in either manner brings you down to your oppositions level that's what the ignore function is for.
Now with that said as I read through this thread with much interest, because I have limited knowledge of hydro-boost and would like to install it on my Roadster, I was wondering why anyone would continue to drive a vehicle except for test driving under as controlled conditions as you can manage.
Also, I very much appreciate your threads and the information you continue to provide and would hate to see you banned for allowing someone, whom I have no knowledge of, to allow you to drift down that road.
Take Care
Jim
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 625
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
You can stay the heck out of my threads. As far as I am concerned, you can take a long ... walk on a short *** pier. Du er en stor roghule. If you can read, and if you know that there are actually people outside of your city, county, state, and country, you can figure out what language that is, and try to translate it.
You seem to think you're the only one who knows how to work on this stuff. PS fluid in your master cylinder? Gimme a break.