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Replacing IP, Injectors, Return lines, Pics

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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #16  
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Good job and it sure does feel nice to have it start and run better after doing the work.

I bought one of the U-haul pumps and put new injectors from Russ at the same time. I have no problems with the pump. After adjusting the timing it runs really nice. When cold and having the cold advance on it really does rattle, when warm it still has a decent rattle noise. All normal rattle noise though, I highly recommend to set your timing with some type of meter, not just by ear.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 04:55 PM
  #17  
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LSO,

Can you give me the pricing and place you got the pump from? I might be looking at buying one myself since I am having lousy luck with the U-haul pump. Maybe I just need a pump that doesn't have the torque screw, IE: 92 and older. Everyone said the one I have should work just fine and be better if I get a turbo but it isn't looking that way.

Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 05:39 PM
  #18  
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Eaton,

Sure I can find out for you. Mine was $513 exchange. I found them a little cheaper some other places but those other places wouldn't accept my core cause it wasn't the same pump that I was ordering. I got a 5069 which is the turbo pump and the pump I took off my truck was a 4823 which was for a 90-92 IH Series truck that some Dork put on it sometime or another. My mom's store said they didn't care what kind of pump it was as long as it was a pump. The non turbo pump you're needing may be cheaper though. If you tell me which pump you need I'll get a price for you Monday.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 07:16 PM
  #19  
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LSO

thanks for the pics !!!! looks great and glad you have great results!!! and a job well done!!!!

Eaton

do set your stuff on fire yet !!! i know all the guys are likin your videos of test runs and what not a job well done all in it self man keep your head up!!!!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 07:54 PM
  #20  
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Thanks felix! It was definitely the most in depth mechanicing that I've done so far! Before I got into these old diesel trucks my mechanic skills were very limited! Thanks to you guys I've been able to learn how to do alot to my IDI's myself! Here's a youtube video of it running. I'd like for FORDF250HDXLT to lend his timing ear and see how it sounds to him!

<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vT5fRfUzN2E" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 08:16 PM
  #21  
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she sounds good to me.i think your video cam picks up the highs real clear so its kinda hard to tell.
thats with the cold advance off right? does it sound way to loud (with hurt your ear "rattle") with it on?
i can tell ya,im pretty dang near idi tone deaf.best i can do is about 3 degree's either way.i can't tell much difference once in this neighborhood.
thats in person too.you could be off 4 or 5 degrees for all i know haha.i sure wouldn't guess this though.sounds close to me.id guess too advanced if anything right there.but like i say,that could just be your video cam.
driving my feel is easier than going my ear.
you'll notice at some point,that just like adding fuel;you'll notice no more gain.
when you add fuel so you see smoke,and then add some more,you don't feel any more power,you just see it rolling coal.
pretty much the same with starting on the retarded side of timing,you'll notice more rattle to the point where the performance peaks,and all is gained is extra irritating engine noise while driving.that's the best way to set timing is by feel rather than by ear.
just remember to never adjust it with the engine running,and make sure the bolts are tight between test runs.
curiously,your timing marks are no longer lined up are they? you advanced it some right? cus it sure sounds like you did......if you didn't,well what i tell ya? im idi tone deaf lol.
she sure is running nice and smoooooooth anyway.ya can tell you got her freshly tuned up.that's for sure.
she must feel a lot better to ya going down the road now.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 08:29 PM
  #22  
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Glad to hear everything went good.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 09:05 PM
  #23  
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Thanks guys! The timing marks are lined up dead center right now. No fuel adjustments yet. At some point during that video the cold idle solenoid kicked off, I'd have to watch it again to see how far into the video. It seems to be idling a little high looks to be around 800-900 on the tach. May need idle it down some? I haven't made any adjustments to the idle screw yet. I don't know how much or what kind of smoke I'm putting out cause the exhaust pipe is turned down and I can't see it while driving or setting in the cab but I couldn't be much or I'd be able to see it anyway. Don't notice any smoke of any kind while it's idling. I almost had the winning bid on a tach/time meter on ebay but got outbid at the last minute so I guess I'll have to take it to the dealer to have it fine tuned.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 09:08 PM
  #24  
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Here's another one after I had drove it for a while. Seems to be idling too high to me.

<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/hQpLf4D67W8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 09:11 PM
  #25  
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Since you have the E4OD, you have a TPS. i was told that the E4OD needs a minimum idle speed of 750rpm. anything less it won't work right. once you start to lower your idle rpm the O/D light will start flashing, don't freak out. you will have to readjust you TPS. Once you have you TPS set back to where you want it the O/D light will go out by itself.

Don't ask me how i know all this.

Mine idles around 775-800rpm. runs good.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 09:17 PM
  #26  
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Oh yeah, the good ole TPS! I keep getting a code 23 which is the TPS out of range code. My meter only reads in whole volts and not in hundreths like 4.5 or whatever. I have it set at 1 volt at idle and 4 at WOT but it could have been 1.9 and 4.9 and I wouldn't be able to tell on that meter. I bought a new meter tonight so I'll check it again tomorrow. If I get it set within range and still get the TPS code then what, new TPS?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 09:25 PM
  #27  
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Code 23= when you do all that selftest crap that you have to do to scan for codes you did not cycle the throttle. no big deal, nothing is wrong with the TPS. i have a craftsman DVM. works good. i just set it to the 20 volt setting on the dial and good to go.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 09:29 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by LSO1123
Oh yeah, the good ole TPS! I keep getting a code 23 which is the TPS out of range code. My meter only reads in whole volts and not in hundreths like 4.5 or whatever. I have it set at 1 volt at idle and 4 at WOT but it could have been 1.9 and 4.9 and I wouldn't be able to tell on that meter. I bought a new meter tonight so I'll check it again tomorrow. If I get it set within range and still get the TPS code then what, new TPS?
Unless the O/D light is flashing then you are under the 1.12V idle setting.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 09:29 PM
  #29  
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man,that sucker sure sounds healthy.
yeah,no sense in wasting fuel.just turn her idle down to 650-700 rpm (when warm.high idle kicked off.)
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 09:33 PM
  #30  
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The OD light is flashing but it goes off if I turn the truck off and back on. Thats the only code I'm getting. I'll check it again in the morning with my new meter. F250HD, the cold idle kicks off in that first video at right around 2:40 into the video, it's hard to tell in the video though. I'm gonna let it warm up in the morning then idle her down then check the TPS. But you're right it does sound healthy! The rough idle is completely gone now and it runs smooth as silk through the entire power range. I can't believe it's the same truck that had before the new IP and injectors!
 
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