Weird Symptoms... HELP ASAP!!
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
Weird Symptoms... HELP ASAP!!
1994 F150 XL
4.9L 300 I6
M5OD
Ok the only real way I can explain this is like this, so bare with me.
Say the speed limit is 40 MPH, I'll get TO 40 MPH, and when I try keep it there my truck will start to feel like it's dying, pretty much the same feeling as if you were running out of gas. But if I accelerate, my truck will run smooth again. I have never had this happen to me in any other vehicle I have driven.
(BTW it happens EVERY time I try to hold a STEADY speed, not just 40 MPH)
Any ideas? Would really like to get this fixed ASAP!!
FTE has always given me solid answers or at least answers in the right direction.
4.9L 300 I6
M5OD
Ok the only real way I can explain this is like this, so bare with me.
Say the speed limit is 40 MPH, I'll get TO 40 MPH, and when I try keep it there my truck will start to feel like it's dying, pretty much the same feeling as if you were running out of gas. But if I accelerate, my truck will run smooth again. I have never had this happen to me in any other vehicle I have driven.
(BTW it happens EVERY time I try to hold a STEADY speed, not just 40 MPH)
Any ideas? Would really like to get this fixed ASAP!!
FTE has always given me solid answers or at least answers in the right direction.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
I'm sorry but I have no experience with codes. How/where do I do that? Tools?
Also my check engine light isn't on, so I'm not sure if it's throwing codes.
Sorry for the lack of experience.
Also my check engine light isn't on, so I'm not sure if it's throwing codes.
Sorry for the lack of experience.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 47
From: Mexico, Missouri
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
Wow that's actually really helpful and easy in a way. I'll try to test it either today when the suns up or sometime tomorrow depending on available time.
Thank you for the info and I will get back to yall with the codes. And will keep the TPS in mind.
Thank you for the info and I will get back to yall with the codes. And will keep the TPS in mind.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 7
From: Des Moines, Iowa
You have 2 other options for getting the codes... I did the counting flashes for a while and then just gave in and got a OBDI code reader Equus 3145 is usually $30 or less online or at a parts store. If your going to own this ford for a while I suggest getting one.
Second option is to have O'Reillys pull the codes for you with their reader. they can pull and print them for free! The only reason I have a reader myself is b/c I live 30miles from my nearest O'Reillys...
Just a couple thoughts for future consideration.
BTW... You boys sure do like the weee morning hours to chat!!!!
Second option is to have O'Reillys pull the codes for you with their reader. they can pull and print them for free! The only reason I have a reader myself is b/c I live 30miles from my nearest O'Reillys...
Just a couple thoughts for future consideration.
BTW... You boys sure do like the weee morning hours to chat!!!!
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
Ok so I just pulled the codes myself using a wire to ground. Anyways this is what I got, I did the test like 7 times. These code description are from a Chilton Ford 1987-96 REPAIR MANUAL
52 - Power steering pressure switch always open or closed
25 - Knock not sensed during dynamic test
22 - BP sensor out of self-test range and/or MAP out of range
11 - System pass??? (Tested 7 times and 11 came up every time)
73 - Insufficient TP change during dynamic test <<<Guessing this is what is causing my problem?
32 - EVP voltage below closed limit
So basically is code 73 the one that is causing my problems? I will most likely be getting a code reader to double check everything.
52 - Power steering pressure switch always open or closed
25 - Knock not sensed during dynamic test
22 - BP sensor out of self-test range and/or MAP out of range
11 - System pass??? (Tested 7 times and 11 came up every time)
73 - Insufficient TP change during dynamic test <<<Guessing this is what is causing my problem?
32 - EVP voltage below closed limit
So basically is code 73 the one that is causing my problems? I will most likely be getting a code reader to double check everything.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
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From: Mexico, Missouri
I agree with Nstueve. I also own the Equus code reader with the optional 6ft. adapter cord so I can sit in the truck and pull codes.
Code 73 and 22 are definately detriminal to overall running of your EFI. New Motorcraft TPS is like $65 from the dealer and I got a used MAP sensor fromt he junkyard for $25 dollars. I also believe that you can use any MAP sensor from I6 or V8. I pulled a MAP sensor from a I6 for my V8 and it was the same part#.
Also, with the "Weeee hours", LOL yes, I'm usually awake @ that time. I have been working 7pm to 7am for almost 12 years. I'm not much of a daywalker unless I'm up until 12-2pm on my days off.
Code 73 and 22 are definately detriminal to overall running of your EFI. New Motorcraft TPS is like $65 from the dealer and I got a used MAP sensor fromt he junkyard for $25 dollars. I also believe that you can use any MAP sensor from I6 or V8. I pulled a MAP sensor from a I6 for my V8 and it was the same part#.
Also, with the "Weeee hours", LOL yes, I'm usually awake @ that time. I have been working 7pm to 7am for almost 12 years. I'm not much of a daywalker unless I'm up until 12-2pm on my days off.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,208
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From: North Reading Mass
Some of those codes are KOER and require you to blip the throttle, turn the steering wheel, step on the clutch, and brake pedal when prompted hence dynamic test. I'll bet "11" came up first when pulling the codes.
Check the resistance or sig voltage on your TPS before replacing. When my MAP sensor went out it would barely run but never set a code. From what your saying it sounds like a TPS or TPS circuit issue.
regards
rikard
Check the resistance or sig voltage on your TPS before replacing. When my MAP sensor went out it would barely run but never set a code. From what your saying it sounds like a TPS or TPS circuit issue.
regards
rikard
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Senior User
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
I did the test KOEO. I will keep all of your info in mind, thank you all.
Oh also it turns out my Dad had changed out the TPS among other things BEFORE I knew I was getting a truck. (While back about 1 year ago)
Truck's now in my name and I had to pay him back, but I'm glad he picked this truck.
Anyways back to the subject, if the TPS is new, what could be causing the TPS to act up? Also should I change out the MAP sensor due to the code 22?
Oh also it turns out my Dad had changed out the TPS among other things BEFORE I knew I was getting a truck. (While back about 1 year ago)
Truck's now in my name and I had to pay him back, but I'm glad he picked this truck.
Anyways back to the subject, if the TPS is new, what could be causing the TPS to act up? Also should I change out the MAP sensor due to the code 22?
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Calverton
Even though new it sounds like it has a problem, here is a link to look over, and the things that might impact it
Ford Fuel Injection » Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Ford Fuel Injection » Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
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From: Concord, NC
Keep in mind that the codes are output starting with the lowest numbers. I think your truck will use 3-digit codes instead of two. Plus, you will not get any engine running codes with the engine off.
It looks to me like continuous codes show a 522 (repeated), which probably just means that you didn't hold the clutch pedal on the floor during the test (only have to do this on 6-cylinder manual transmission trucks). I'm not sure what happens after the separator pulse, so you may want to try pulling the codes again. Here's another website that might help you to decipher the blinks: EEC IV Self Test hookup . Don't worry about the volt meter/test light in those instructions - the check engine light does the same thing.
It looks to me like continuous codes show a 522 (repeated), which probably just means that you didn't hold the clutch pedal on the floor during the test (only have to do this on 6-cylinder manual transmission trucks). I'm not sure what happens after the separator pulse, so you may want to try pulling the codes again. Here's another website that might help you to decipher the blinks: EEC IV Self Test hookup . Don't worry about the volt meter/test light in those instructions - the check engine light does the same thing.