I have a 1994 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6. I have a problem that the truck starts and then it cuts off.If I keep giving it gas it will run but wne I take my foot off of the gas it struggles and then dies. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, IAC, plugs, wires, throttle position sensor, MAF, and fuel pressure regulator. Are there any suggestion on what else it could be?

 

Is it missing spark or fuel?

Will it run with ether sprayed in the air box?

What's the fuel pressure?

Fuel pump relay?

 

off the top of my head ....and i am just a shadetree kind of guy....and i have no real experience with the 3.0...BUT....i would be curious about the o2 sensors....or something related to the egr system.Might be egr valve or might be the ....forget name...on the 2.3 if you take the intake "tube" off and look directly into the intake there is a hole that is inside there that air gets recirculated through and it may be plugged up with carbon and there is a part directly to the left attached to the intake that I THINK is the same part that i have seen cause simalar problems on a friends car.------does it accelerate rough when you give it gas? Can you hear a intake leak anywhere?--------------i know im guessing in the wind here but hope it helps you somehow.

edit---btw double check all your electrical plug in around your intake as well

 

I replaced the fuel pump relay and that seems to help but I am not sure that it is fully fixed. I drove it yesterday and I was so nervous. It ran ok but I still think there is a vacuum leak somewhere. The small hose coming out of the PVC valve is broken. Will that cause it not to stay running?

 

Definitely get that vacuum leak fixed. That will make it idle funny & most importantly will let unfiltered air come in. A small leak usually isn't enough to make it stall so I am doubting that is all your problem.

 

Is there any help for finding a vacuum diagram for a 1994 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6? I have a leak coming off of the PCV valvle. Is there any suggestions?

 

Welcome to FTE.

Do you have a CEL lit???? If so, have the computer scanned for trouble codes & post All of the code numbers, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues & you may have more than one problem!!!

As Mark250 has suggested, get the broken PCV hose replaced. Look under the hood, or on the upper radiator support, for a vacuum hose routing decal label

Then after having the codes pulled & getting the repair done, disconnect the B- battery cable to wipe the computers KAM, so it knows a reapir has been made, so it can begin to relearn it's cold & warm idle stratedgy & begin to build new fuel trim tables, with all of the new parts you've installed.

 

I do not have a CEL lit. After I have replaced the fuel pump relay, IAC, TPS, plugs do I need to reset the computer?

 

After a repair, it's always advisable to do a battery disconnect for say 15 min, or leave a door open, or turn a light on, to discharge things electrically, so that the computers KAM is wiped & it then knows a repair has been made, so it can reset & relearn things it needs too, without delay.

Then to prevent possible driveability problems, at least go through the cold & warm idle relearn strategy routine. The remainder the computer needs to learn it can usually accomplish without problems while we drive in the city & on the highway, without having to go through Fords lengthly drive cycle relearn routine after a KAM wipe.
Both cycles are posted on the forum, so a search will turn them up.

 

What is the cold & warm idle relearn strategy routine and how do I do it?

 

Again, the search function is your friend.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - 3.0 momentarily bogs down on accleration

 

I have a question about my 1994 Ranger. Could it be possible for my Catalytic Converter be shot if I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, plugs, wires, throttle position sensor, MAF, idle air control, fuel pressure regulator and my truck stalls/hesitates when it gets hot?

 

It takes air, fuel, spark & compression to make em run, so which of those goes missing when it stops running???? Still no CEL lit???? Even if it isn't lit, I'd do a computer scan for trouble codes anyway after it stops running next time, as there may be a code stored in CM, that hasn't turned the CEL on yet.

On the cat converter question, does a vacuum gauge test for a blocked exhaust indicate that???? Does the quick hand test over the exhaust pipe, indicate that exhaust flow is weak???? Does the cat converter glow red hot when it's running????

Maybe all those things needed replacing, but maybe not, consider taking the time to do a proper diagnostic trouble shoot test, get a positive result, then replace the faulty part.

 

Have got the 1994 Ranger with the v6 4.0L, had the same problem and found the cure to be a vacume cover cap. Located at the back of the valve cover to the driver side of the motor, its a multi ported vac-valve you can't miss the black caps... 1/4dia. wont stay on for some reason. id get mine to stay on by putting some superglue in it then forcing it back on.

 

Can you give me a better description of of where the valve is located and what it looks like?