Trans temp sender install on E4OD
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,357
Likes: 813
From: Mi'kma'ki
Just completes the install. But the sender seems to be too long. It will not enter completely into the port. I can feel resistance when trying to thighten the sender, so I have only thightened it very careful so far because I am afraid I might destroy something. And I have not started the engine after the install so far.
The bolt that I removed from the trans test port is appr a quarter of an inch (appr 7mm) long measured from the tip to the beginning of the threads. The sender is half an inch (appr 13mm) measured from the tip to the beginning of the threads.
Any who knows if it is ok to use this sender the way it is installed now, or should I get a shorter one?
If I should use a shorter sender, does anyone know where I can buy one online?
Appreciate your help.
//Lars Petter
The bolt that I removed from the trans test port is appr a quarter of an inch (appr 7mm) long measured from the tip to the beginning of the threads. The sender is half an inch (appr 13mm) measured from the tip to the beginning of the threads.
Any who knows if it is ok to use this sender the way it is installed now, or should I get a shorter one?
If I should use a shorter sender, does anyone know where I can buy one online?
Appreciate your help.
//Lars Petter
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
I tried with a small screwdriver, and it felt like the hole is getting narrower right after the threaded part. I assume that this is what causing my sender to not enter completely. Now I have only about half of the threads on the sender into the port. I found a shorter sender on Autometer webpages, part # 2259. Maybe this is what I should use? This seems to have the sender built inside the threads instead of an added probe.
//Lars Petter
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 0
From: Peterborough, Ontario
Being a pipe thread, they are tapered. However, the male portion can easily be slightly smaller or larger at the very end. If it happens to be a bit smaller, and there was dirt in the threads where the plug stopped, it will tighten up due to that dirt before it is fully in.
Changing a u-joint a few days ago, I had to chase the threads with a tap in order to get the bolts to even thread them in more than halfway.
Changing a u-joint a few days ago, I had to chase the threads with a tap in order to get the bolts to even thread them in more than halfway.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
I have now installed the shorter sender from Autometer. But I am not happy with the install. This one entered further in than the longer sender, but still will not enter completely. Searching the net I found some info on a product from Dakota Digital thats called Trans Temp Sender Block. From what I understand this is supposed to be installed inline with the oil line going from the trans to the cooler. It comes in two variations, one for 3/8 pipes and one for 5/16 pipes. Any of you tried this product before, and does anyone know the size of the oil line pipes on the trans? And does anyone knows how to install it? Is as easy to just cut the oil line and screw on the fittings and then screw these into the block?
//Lars Petter
//Lars Petter
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 3
From: NY
You are supposed to be using the drivers side test port, you don't need to put that in. It might work but highly pointless when you have a test port already tapped on the transmission.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Thing is that I have already tried that. The sender does not enter completely (not the short one either). I have put a couple of fiber washers on it so I can thighten it properly, but I still have a small leak. Can I use plumbers tape on the threads to stop the leak? Will this tape stand the heat when it gets really hot? I know the sender is grounded through the threads, but maybe some of this tape at the outermost part of the threads will do?
//Lars Petter
//Lars Petter
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