1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

2002 E150 Clubwagon - blown rear in-frame steel brakeline

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 09-14-2014, 08:33 PM
whalerron's Avatar
whalerron
whalerron is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 828
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
2002 E150 Clubwagon - blown rear in-frame steel brakeline

The steel brakeline which runs in the frame to the back of my van has rusted badly and yesterday, it blew out. I need to replace that line. Have any of you done this job? The gastank must be dropped to access that line but my tank is currently full. Is it possible to siphon the gas out of the tank?

Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 09-15-2014, 12:20 AM
delgriffith's Avatar
delgriffith
delgriffith is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
I regularly siphon gas out of our 06's by pulling the rubber hose off the filler neck and slide a PVC tube down the hole. There's a flap but beyond that nothing to stop you. I'll pull all but 5-10 gallons out and then drop the tank for a pump change. YMMV.
 
  #3  
Old 09-15-2014, 03:59 AM
Im50fast's Avatar
Im50fast
Im50fast is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 3,084
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
If your brake line rusted away then you should be ready to find your gas tank straps/bolts/etc rusted also.

I wonder if you'd be better off cutting the brake line ahead of the bad section- and then reroute it so you can leave the tank undisturbed.

Just a suggestion.
 
  #4  
Old 09-15-2014, 05:59 AM
JWA's Avatar
JWA
JWA is offline
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 20,880
Received 1,391 Likes on 1,100 Posts
There's no real need to drop the tank unless you want to deal with more rusted parts that will then need replaced.

When this same brake line needed replaced on my E250 we simply tied into an existing known good part of that line with a DOT-approved brake line splicing coupler, a roll of 3/16" coated steel brake line, some tube nuts and a flaring tool.

Running the new line from the rear its fished along the inside of the frame rail to a point in front of the tank where the existing line can be spliced. Naturally that point will have to be solid with no rust etc. Form the rear of the line to where it fits into the T-fitting, flare the line and attach.

Towards the front cut the existing blown line at a point that's easy to access for installing the brake line coupler. Connect the new line with the existing one, make sure the new line is firmly anchored to solid points to prevent excessive movement or chafing---anything to keep in fixed in place.

If you don't have flaring tools use stock lengths of brake line with tube nuts already installed along with female couplers if mulitple lengths are needed to span the distance. At the front where you'll use the DOT-approved splicing connector use a tube cutter for the proper length of lines and simply tie the new line into the existing one that way.

HTH
 
  #5  
Old 09-15-2014, 09:19 AM
blageurt's Avatar
blageurt
blageurt is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Thornhill , Ontario
Posts: 1,405
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Exactly what JWA said...I have done this type of repair many times on different vehicles...I use a Double flaring tool however ..a bit of a PITA when you drop the little mandrel deal but well worth it.... Buy a roll of the better quality line which has a higher copper content making it easier to bend and more resistant to corrosion. Just fish the new line through behind the tank and give yourself a foot or so extra before you cut it . Most of the time I attach the new line to the old one with plastic ties so it is solid and in the original configuration. I re-use the old fittings most of the time after I clean them up. I would replace the entire line instead of splicing into it however....Good Luck
 
  #6  
Old 09-16-2014, 11:19 PM
CougarXR02's Avatar
CougarXR02
CougarXR02 is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 586
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I agree with 50fast in running new lines in an area very nearby but accessible without dropping the fuel tank. I'm a big fan of just replacing all the brake lines when one ruptures. Brake line is cheap, and if one section has weakened and ruptured under braking pressure, another can't be far behind. Often I see brake lines that look clean and solid on their open runs between hangers are corroded and rusted at the plastic hanger clips. I'd be surprised if it cost as much as $50 in parts and fluid to do all hard lines on the entire van.
 
  #7  
Old 10-19-2014, 09:42 PM
whalerron's Avatar
whalerron
whalerron is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 828
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
The job is complete. I dropped the tank and the hardest part about that was getting the hanger bolts loose. I used Nickel-Copper line and it was very easy to flare and bend. I routed the line exactly like the original and I replaced all of the rubber hoses ( front and rear ) while I was at it. The only gotcha was the forward end of that rear line has a bubble flare on it and it mates to a female double flare on the line coming down from the ABS unit. I don't own a bubble flare tool. It took some searching but I found a 3/16 male to 3/16 female brake line adapter (Dorman part 499009) which allowed me to mate my new male double flare to the female double flare on the forward line. Thanks for the help.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
afonda
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
5
01-29-2018 08:10 PM
MS86
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
4
03-28-2017 05:12 AM
flavo
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
9
05-28-2013 12:31 PM
TowsonX
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
7
02-18-2013 03:50 AM
Stickid
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
3
07-06-2012 08:26 PM



Quick Reply: 2002 E150 Clubwagon - blown rear in-frame steel brakeline



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:25 PM.