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Ipr valve

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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 01:32 PM
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Ipr valve

How do you put 12v to the valve. Do you leave it hooked up to 12v for a few sec, to work of what. Just put In new hp oil pump took the sensor out of the passenger side of valve cover put 3000 psi gauge in put air in and hear it all over the place. So I know you have to put 12v to the IPR but for how long. Because it won't close to hold air in. Even held it and put 12v to it and it doesn't do anything.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 01:34 PM
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Switch the wires.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 03:09 PM
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Yeah I tried that. I got a new IPR valve took two wires hooked them to Batt, then to IPR------ nothing , no click or anything. I took one apart pulled the magnetic deal back about 1/2'' then plug it in and it slid back but it's like it doesn't have enough pwr to open/close and Batteries are good.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 03:44 PM
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what year is truck

sounds like the new IPR bad assuming you hooked it up right

so you put new one in and put power to it and bam ya got air when you prssurize the system everywhere
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 07:05 PM
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Yes pudry much. Let's start from beginning.
05 excursion ARP studs,EGR cooler in just blocked off..
Wife drove tk,all was good, I went to move in revved it up 2k maybe came down to idle and shut off. Took a bit of cranking but started, put back in drivway rev up again, same thing shut off now won't start..

Took FICM out did mod, put back in no start. put it in F250 same tk, I did a mod to its ficm, and it worked fine, put it in my work tk, worked fine.
took the one out of wk, tk, put it in my Excur, still no start.
put mine back in my excur,
Took sensor out of pass,side valve cover Put a 3000psi gauge in cranked it an no psi, not even 100psi, put gauge in F250 got 2600+- when cranking it over. So put new Hp oil pump in and new screen under oil cooler, still no psi,

Now my back round is race boats, had a Top fuel flat bottom, worked with NHRA alc,f/m funny car. Have a Cole day cruser boat with 1300+ hp. Just lost on this 6.0
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 07:20 PM
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When you say HP oil pump you DO mean the one under the turbo, correct? Are you running an OEM oil filter? Have you tried the IPR from your work truck? Are you getting "pressure" on the dash gauge? Have you pulled the oil filter, held the filter drain valve closed and seen if you were getting oil to the filter:http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h.../Page_025.html
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by j540john
Yeah I tried that. I got a new IPR valve took two wires hooked them to Batt, then to IPR------ nothing , no click or anything. I took one apart pulled the magnetic deal back about 1/2'' then plug it in and it slid back but it's like it doesn't have enough pwr to open/close and Batteries are good.
so you have 2 vehicles both 6.0diesel and you swapped the ficms??

your problem is not FICM relaited but a good check

back to the HPO
when you did the hpo pump did it have the new STC fitting on it at the top
hope you didnt short out the new IPR or leave it hooked to 12 volt power for more than 30 seconds
I think with 12volts to it it should react fast when closing the IPR

Great idea Tim pull that filter and verify LPO pump is working
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 07:27 PM
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If you apply 12V and don't hear it click, I would change it out (way before I replaced the HPOP).
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic
If you apply 12V and donlt hear it click, I would change it out (way before I replaced the HPOP).

X2
I totaly agree you probably just got junk in the system when you did the headstuds and just needed to replace the IPR or at least the IPR screen

not to many HPOP failures

stick around I have recieved alot of help here on FTE it will save you big$$$$
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 07:51 PM
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Haha yes the hpop under turbo. My friend is a ford tech at ford and gave me a test ipr, that is good or was hehehe. And no I didn't leave it hooked up I only took two wires and touch them to the two pins in the ipr valve, and no I for sure did not touch them together while ouching the pins, I didn't strip the wires back so that way they wouldn't touch each other. But I have the ipr out but set it on the motor so it would be grounded then tried to put pwr to it thinking it's like a solenoid it would click of sumthin. But don't here or see it do anything. On my ipr the green oring had a small chunk out of it so I put a new screen an orings on..

Yes I had oil psi on the dash. I haven't looked in the last few times cranking it sence.
Used my friends f250 ficm and the one of my tk, at work. But the funny thing is I can't get psi on the ( I forget what it's called) the sensor port on pass side v-cover
The STC, is that the tee fitting in the bag with the hpop an it just pushes on to the fitting on the pump. And bolts down with two 8mm, yes it was new with a yellow oring.all was installed.
So what u guys think. If you want to call me my # 818 207-8479 gota take wife to eat. But phone is on.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 07:56 PM
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As I said, the IPR will click.

Did you do this:

To command the valve, you can use an old ipr connector from an old harness wired to a cig. lighter plug and only keep it plugged in for NO MORE THAN 120 seconds (30 secondsis more desireable) not to damage the ipr. Try asking a tech at your local ford dealer, maybe one will be nice enough to snip one off a harness thats laying around. Red wire switched power Pin A B+; Yellow /red switched ground Pin B-.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic;
As I said, the IPR will click.

Did you do this:

To command the valve, you can use an old ipr connector from an old harness wired to a cig. lighter plug and only keep it plugged in for NO MORE THAN 120 seconds (30 secondsis more desireable) not to damage the ipr. Try asking a tech at your local ford dealer, maybe one will be nice enough to snip one off a harness thats laying around. Red wire switched power Pin A B+; Yellow /red switched ground Pin B-.
So it's ok if it's out and not screwed in to the pump right, it should still click.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by j540
So it's ok if it's out and not screwed in to the pump right, it should still click.
Yes

I would think a definate click

How the rest of the HPOS did you change standpipes dummy plugs ect..... when you did the work
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 11:41 PM
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ok just hooked up my old one and no click or anything.
But I hooked up ficm and all else just now and check the 304 relay swapped it out with different one, cranked it over and still no psi, at the IPC sensor. so I'm thinking......shouldn't it have oil pres, in the rail or does the ipr bypass it so that's why it wont build psi at the IPC sensor

No didn't do the stand pipe or the Dummy plugs. What and where are they what do they look like. Ok I just looked them up, and No i didn't do them, I't must be that because I can't build high psi oil press, and when I put air in the ipc sensor port I here air down in the area of the stand pipe.
I'll take the valve cover off in the morning, It's not hard. So maybe. What do you think.
Still stumped on the ipr deal thou.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by j540john
ok just hooked up my old one and no click or anything.
But I hooked up ficm and all else just now and check the 304 relay swaped it out with differant one, cranked it over and still no psi, at the IPC sensor. so I'm thinking......shouldn't it have oil pres, in the rail or does the ipr bypass it so thats why it wont build psi at the IPC sensor

No didn't do the stand pipe or the Dummy plugs. What and where are they what do they look like.
The IPR is the drain for the HPO if its stuck open its sending all the oil to the crankcase not letting the pressure build

when the truck is in the off position the IPR is open
The IPR comes before the ICP
the IPR regulates the HPO
The ICP reads the pressure

Did you do like Tim suggested and pull the filter and see if your getting LPO to the oil filter houseing while someone cranks it over although if it reads on the dash gauge you probably do have LPO

since you didnt do HPO standpipes and stuff
did you pull the heads and use new gaskets and stuff or just change the bolts out??
 
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