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Been searching for the info and haven't found it, maybe I just don't know how to search.
I am trying to find the rear cab bushing specs, particularly, how thick the bushing is supposed to be.
At BroncoGraveyard, their takeoff rubber bushings are 1 3/8" which I believe will compress to about an inch or so. Compared to the 35yr old rubber bushings on my brother's '76 F250 which measure 1", I'd say this is right.
I'm working on a std cab '75 F250 4x4 and the rear cab bushings are poly but measure 1 3/4" thick which horribly mis-aligns the cab to bed body lines and makes the cab to bed gap wide at the top and narrow at the bottom. I'm certain the rear bushings are too tall and need to know what the correct height should be.
Well, my 2 cents would be check multiple places that sell the bushings and see how they compare. There is broncograveyard, LMC and probably even your local auto parts store and if they all have the same bushings for that location i would say that that would be the proper one you need.
I happen to have the LMC catalog in front of me and they dont list the dimension of the bushing but the part number for the upper cushion for the rear cab to frame mount is 40-2013.
I just did this on a '76 4x4 F100 about a month ago, wish I had saved the old bushings though after 35 years I doubt that I could have given you an accurate measurement of what new ones are supposed to be. How far off is the bed alignment? My bed and cab were somewhat off as well, maybe 1/2"- 3/4'' of an inch until the bolts were tightened. The metal sleeve washers will only allow you to tighten the bolts so much, so as to prevent distortion of the bushing. I used the energy suspension poly kit from Jeff's as well.
You dont mention it but are you changing your front cab mounts too? This might be the reason your cab is closer to the bed at the bottom and wider at the top. My original front mounts were much more compressed than my rears, the rears actually were in great looking shape and could have been reused I think while the fronts were distorted looking, I think the fronts caused my cab and fender alignment to not look quite right. I dont know if its different on an F-250 but on my F100 I jacked the cab up and unbolted the front support from the frame and removed the old bushings and hardware on a bench, much much easier than trying to do it under the truck.
certain salvage yards which allow you to remove your own parts might be a great place to find a donor to measure. If you need better mounts you might just find them as well for much less than new; I recently got all the hardware for the 6 mounts (and bushings although I wont need them) as I am looking at switching to poly; my mounts are looking a little rough.
The fronts were the thinnest, middles were in between, and rears appeared to have the thickest rubber.
Thanks for the feedback guys. This is a complete resto, and the frame and cab mounts are perfect. I have my brother's '76 F250 4WD here to compare against and the differences between the two trucks are the rear cab bushings, front bushings are virtually identical save some compression on the really old ones.
I crawled under my brother's truck again today and verified the measurement, 1 1/8" and the new bushings on the truck I'm doing measure 1 3/4". I don't know where the owner purchased them, so I can't confirm they are correct. What I do know is, if they were the same thickness as those on my brother's truck the body lines would be very close.
Guess I'll have to contact some bushing suppliers to confirm how thick they really should be.
I just crawled under mine and measured the rear bushing, the one the cab sits on, its tough to get under there and see with just a tape measure but it looks close to 1.5" compressed. This is the energy suspension set from Jeff's
One thing I have learned having my '75 F-100 for about 6 months now... There are no guarantees what you have is stock; the parts may 'fit' but may not have ever been intended for your vehicle.
I was able to compare several trucks and came to a sort of consensus of what the final product is supposed to look like. If your body alignment is that far off you might swap your mounts out with a decent pair from the junkyard at least to establish your baseline; that is alignment is as it should be. IMO body mount hardware is way over priced when purchasing new so this might save a few bucks.
One more thing... I would appreciate feedback here if I am wrong but I can not see any difference between 2wd & 4wd mounts (none of the catalogs distinguish between them either); the 2wd's seem to be in better shape likely due to less abuse.
I just got done swapping out my core support mounts which where gone and the 2wds were identical except the lack of rust compared to nothing but rust. My plans are to get all the hardware up to par and then r&r with poly's.
One more thing... I would appreciate feedback here if I am wrong but I can not see any difference between 2wd & 4wd mounts (none of the catalogs distinguish between them either); the 2wd's seem to be in better shape likely due to less abuse.
I just got done swapping out my core support mounts which where gone and the 2wds were identical except the lack of rust compared to nothing but rust. My plans are to get all the hardware up to par and then r&r with poly's.
I ran into this as well; the lmc catalog shows a different style of washer on the top of the rear mounts for Broncos and supercabs. When I took mine out of my '76 f100 4x4, they were the ones shown for a Bronco. Basically its a large washer that covers the bushing, it has a cone or sleeve welded to it, it sits beneath the cab and on top of the bushing. The cone intersects with a cone that is welded to the bottom washer, the one that has a nut spot welded on it. Mike 000 here helped me with catlog pages as well as pix of his bushings from his 2wd and mine were definately different. I also believe mine to be original to the truck. As an aside, I cant see how using one or the other style would make a difference.
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