I ran my 93 Explorer’s 4-pin trailer pigtail straight from inside the SUV’s two rear light’s housings. Down to under the bumper with the quick/crimp/splice connects for 15 years w/o a problem. My goal was keeping the connections out of the weather and water with a boat and utility trailer use. My only problem came due to not having a good grommet and enough slack for a very sharp turn etc that caused a short and blown fuse. Good Luck Towing! My V6's "Towing Package" (sub reinforced bumper mainly) was a Monster toward towing too much firewood. I tried to stay under ¾ cord SUV and trailer but that was hard on some short trips. jow

 

I ran my 93 Explorer’s 4-pin trailer pigtail straight from inside the SUV’s two rear light’s housings. Down to under the bumper with the quick/crimp/splice connects for 15 years w/o a problem. My goal was keeping the connections out of the weather and water with a boat and utility trailer use. My only problem came due to not having a good grommet and enough slack for a very sharp turn etc that caused a short and blown fused. Good Luck Towing! My V6's "Towing Package" (sub reinforced bumper mainly) was a Monster toward towing too much firewood. I tried to stay under ¾ cord SUV and trailer but that was hard on some short trips. jow

 

OK so like I said, I picked up the actual Ford adapter. When I hooked it up I have very weak brake lights, left signal turns on both blinkers, and right signal does nothing. Hazards work as well but also very dim. I know its my truck because I hooked it up to another truck and they worked great. So question is where to start first? Why would I have such a weak signal, bad ground somewhere on the truck?

Thanks again for help
Tony

 

Tony, w/o looking back , has a Ford Dealer given you an explanation? They should have seen this problem and have service bulletins related to it. Next, I feel U-Haul or other Trailer Rentals have seen this problem and know the cause of the problem. Was the Explorer that the adapter worked on the same 93 model as yours?

I had one major light related problem after about 10 of the 15 years I owned the Explorer. The hazard lights started flashing with my lights on. The quick fix was to remove the flasher can/relay but that disabled turn signals also. Knowing I had a problem I c/n make my 70 mi fishing trips always returning in the dark. I got busy quick and felt it had to be the turn signal, flasher, light short related in the steering column switch. The dealer’s tech basically agreed. W/O a 2nd switch to try or asking the Dealer for a used one to try. “ I Bit The Bullet” that a new one @ about 115.00 would get me going before pulling the old switch.

1st Mistake! There was nothing electronic in the switch (all solid copper contacts) and the new one did get me going. Closely observing the old switch and checking it out with an ohmmeter all worked. I noticed copper filings etc in the grease I felt was creating the short. 2nd Mistake! Was not letting my fishing partner pay for the part since I was providing all the labor and etc on the boat and truck. LOL

Finally, I d/n see why wiring directly from your rear lights w/n work (as I feel a Trailer Rental would possibly install a connection). Good Luck & Too Much To Proof! jow

 

My first suspect is, like yours, bad ground.

If you have a test light or multimeter, I'd suggest you run a jumper to the negative battery terminal or a known good, clean ground, and see if you read full brightness/full battery voltage using the known good ground. If not, then the issue is with the supply, but that would seem unlikely since it's more than just one light socket that's dim.

-Rod

 

Wick- the car I used to test the lights was my parents Infiniti. All the lights worked correctly and were very bright. I was using the adapter that her car has which is a standard 4 flat. I have not checked with a Ford place. I personally work on everything I own myself..but electrical isnt my thing and ive never worked with trailer wiring.

I was originally going to cut into the wire harness and hardwire my trailer adapter on. Do you think this could help? Could is be possible that my adapter unit is bad or maybe rusted on the connections inside. The truck is very old and rusty 210k miles. But then again like I said the lights work, just very dim and the turns are messed up.

Rod- Yea I need to multi them. Before I bought the adapter I used a standard test light to see what was powering on. Just like the lights flash on the trailer. Test light showed hazards fine and flashing power, right signal was powering up and brakes, left had no power. Maybe the left is messing the whole harness up? What is the proper voltage to come off that plug?

I will look for reply tomorrow, test, and reply.

Thanks guys

 

This web site sucks that I can't post any pictures or documents. Send me an email and I'll send you a wiring diagram that will fix your issue. I think you have the wrong adapter from Ford. You are not getting a good ground and the trailer relays are not working correctly. Have you taken the panel off the left rear interior quarter panel and listened to the relays turning on? MrSki at *** dot net

 

You should receive essentially full battery voltage at the trailer connector. One advantage to the old style bulb test light is it will load the circuit so if you have a corroded connection, you will likely see that using a test light. New "computer safe" LED test lights and multimeters have such a high input impedance that if the circuit is not otherwise loaded (trailer connected, test light also used, etc.) they may not indicate a voltage issue.

MrSki - this forum, like many other forums, requires you to link to images posted on other servers. There are several photo hosting sites that are free. Server space is not cheap, so since so many of us enjoy this forum for free, it's unreasonable for us to expect them to purchase a bunch of server space to also host photos directly. Sure, it's an added step, but helps keep the forum free to benefit as many enthusiasts as possible.

-Rod

 

1. At least check the in and out voltage at the adapter’s connection on the Explorer.

2. Compare output voltage in connection on the Explorer and compare with voltage at direct lights.

3. If the connector is that rusty that could easily be your entire problem. Post a close Pic of the connector.

4. My explorer was totaled due to the main wiring hoariness frying the dash, etc before I could disconnect the Batt (not to mention a fuse d/n blow).

5. I’m saying if you know you have a potential hazard, be safe by going to a reliable Repair Shop vs Experimenting. jow

 

This didn't used to be the case on this very website. We used to be able to load pictures in our profile and link them to threads. I dunno if Ken still owns this website or not but he was always a control freak about things like this.

 

Did the 1993 Explorer come with a factory connection for a trailer? If so please send a link showing where it was located. I never looked for one but feel I would have seen it over the years of work. The V6 was a natural for towing the 15’ boat or 3/4th cord of firewood (truck & trailer close by) w/o a problem with the factory-towing package. All I could see related to the towing Package was heavy steel under the stock bumper supporting it. There was no auto transmission cooler, heavy-duty radiator or trailer electrical connector of any type.

Please see the attachment at the two links below (if they'll show) jow

http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...Afternoon.jpg?

http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1312583161

 

According to the wiring diagram it appears the trailer wiring adapter was optional in 1993. The pigtails I've seen on Explorers for trailer wiring (2000 model year) were located below the driver's side tail light, accessed from underneath the vehicle. There was a rubber plug/cap inserted in the connector to protect it from dirt and water.

-Rod

 

Rod - this is correct.

Wickware - The trailer towing package was an option in 1993. I'll have to check my invoice to see what the charged for it. All it consisted of is the wiring harness with connector under the left rear bumper, the associated trailer relays under the interior drivers side quarter panel cover and a pigtail to conncet to the connector under the bumber to mate up with the trailer harness.

There was no heavy duty radiator or transmission cooler. There was no additional metal under the car for anything. There wasn't even a trailer hitch if you can believe that. You had to go buy an aftermarket one, or I suppose Ford would sell you one for $1,000 or so.

 

I purchased the 93 Explorer used 3 yrs later probably with every stock option and still like new @40,000. Except, the next morning I got a closer look at the underside and realized the engine's rear main seal had a drip that was never cured after 3 replacements at the Ford Dealer. They said it was a bad design from the Factory that had been corrected in newer models Fords period and that it w/n be that noticeable ever. That was true for the 15 years before it was totaled but not for other 1991s and 92s I noticed in the area. We made a financial settlement due to my 3 trips and the cost of having the seal replaced later if needed.

I hate to think I “possibly” missed the trailer connector as I worked in both rear lights to add a connector (routed the wires under to the hitch’s driver side). The leaf springs, hitch and bumper were so HD I hate to think a connector was not added. jow

 

The gray plastic tow harness connector was way up there attached to the frame. I removed it and replaced it with a water proof military screw on connector for convienence. If you have it, look up around the frame for it.