need help FAST-93 explorer trailer lights
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need help FAST-93 explorer trailer lights
ok 1993 explorer, im trying to hook my trailer lights on my boat up but I dont have the adapter for the greay piece under my bumper. I bought a female 4 plug and Im going to hardwire it because the plug is messed up. I need to know the wires on the truck and which is what to hook up to the plug. Anyone have a diagram, or does anyone know from experience. my new plug consists of white (ground) brown, yellow, and green. In the process now so any quick help is greatly appreciated...thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Union, Washington
Your best bet is to strip the vehicle's wires IN PLACE and solder the trailer plug wires on and then cover with liquid neoprene and tape. If you cut the wires then the vehicle lights will not work.
Or you can use these something like this.
Dorman/Conduct-Tite 16-14 gauge blue interior disconnect and T-tap connector combo (85468) | Electrical Wire Connector | AutoZone.com
or better yet this.
Dorman/Conduct-Tite 18-14 gauge blue weatherproof wire quick splice terminal (85462) | Electrical Wire Connector | AutoZone.com
Or you can use these something like this.
Dorman/Conduct-Tite 16-14 gauge blue interior disconnect and T-tap connector combo (85468) | Electrical Wire Connector | AutoZone.com
or better yet this.
Dorman/Conduct-Tite 18-14 gauge blue weatherproof wire quick splice terminal (85462) | Electrical Wire Connector | AutoZone.com
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Union, Washington
Not if you use liquid neoprene on them after crimping. I worked in the recreational marine industry and used these things all the time. Never had an issue with them. It's when you do a have assed job you have future problems but if you will notice I recommended soldering the wires FIRST. So don't be telling me how to do electrical work. 
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Post Fiend
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Oh and Walmart has them sometimes to and a bunch cheaper.
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Well thanks for the advice. As I was at my local retailer they happen to have 1 Ford adapter left, couldnt find it at autozone, carquest, and many marinas but they had one for 14.99. I bought that and plugged it in. NO TRAILER LIGHTS? As far as I can tell the wires on the trailer are in good shape. I will test the plug tomorrow. Does the ignition have to be on when using a meter?
Post Fiend
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From: Union, Washington
Recently I found at Walmart a 4 pin plug-in to the plug on the vehicle that has LEDs in it that test the lights. It was a couple of bucks. Experience has led me to believe that all trailer lights are BAD until proven to be good by me, regardless of looks.
The adapter I brought for my F150, a round 7 pin to a flat 4 pin to match my little trailers and boat trailers, has test LEDs in the adapter.
The adapter I brought for my F150, a round 7 pin to a flat 4 pin to match my little trailers and boat trailers, has test LEDs in the adapter.
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Interesting how Bear here gets so testy when someone criticizes his comments and he apparently doesn't understand the wiring of a 1993 Ford Explorer's trailer harness.
You can't apply a generic trailer wiring schematic to this...It takes a little more.
There is an entire secondary relay assmbly under the left rear interior quarter panel cover. In order to get these to work, there is a wire that needs to connect/ground out which enables the circuitry to enage. The OEM Ford trailer plug (the gray one) has an extra wire that when the right connector is inserted, the wire loops around and grounds.
So you can go ahead and cut into the OEM harness and hardwire the trailer wires. But you also need to ground out that one wire to get any power to the trailer lights. The problem with this approach though is now your are constantly cylcling those trailer relays, even when no trialer is being used. The OEM connector disables the relays when you disconnect it.
You can't apply a generic trailer wiring schematic to this...It takes a little more.
There is an entire secondary relay assmbly under the left rear interior quarter panel cover. In order to get these to work, there is a wire that needs to connect/ground out which enables the circuitry to enage. The OEM Ford trailer plug (the gray one) has an extra wire that when the right connector is inserted, the wire loops around and grounds.
So you can go ahead and cut into the OEM harness and hardwire the trailer wires. But you also need to ground out that one wire to get any power to the trailer lights. The problem with this approach though is now your are constantly cylcling those trailer relays, even when no trialer is being used. The OEM connector disables the relays when you disconnect it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
Likes: 8
From: Union, Washington
Interesting how Bear here gets so testy when someone criticizes his comments and he apparently doesn't understand the wiring of a 1993 Ford Explorer's trailer harness.
You can't apply a generic trailer wiring schematic to this...It takes a little more.
There is an entire secondary relay assmbly under the left rear interior quarter panel cover. In order to get these to work, there is a wire that needs to connect/ground out which enables the circuitry to enage. The OEM Ford trailer plug (the gray one) has an extra wire that when the right connector is inserted, the wire loops around and grounds.
So you can go ahead and cut into the OEM harness and hardwire the trailer wires. But you also need to ground out that one wire to get any power to the trailer lights. The problem with this approach though is now your are constantly cylcling those trailer relays, even when no trialer is being used. The OEM connector disables the relays when you disconnect it.
You can't apply a generic trailer wiring schematic to this...It takes a little more.
There is an entire secondary relay assmbly under the left rear interior quarter panel cover. In order to get these to work, there is a wire that needs to connect/ground out which enables the circuitry to enage. The OEM Ford trailer plug (the gray one) has an extra wire that when the right connector is inserted, the wire loops around and grounds.
So you can go ahead and cut into the OEM harness and hardwire the trailer wires. But you also need to ground out that one wire to get any power to the trailer lights. The problem with this approach though is now your are constantly cylcling those trailer relays, even when no trialer is being used. The OEM connector disables the relays when you disconnect it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
Likes: 8
From: Union, Washington
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I hand schetched the trailer wire schematics with the wire colors back in 1993 when I first got the truck. I can look to see if I still have it if anyone is interested. I made my own wiring harness and replaced the little plastic FORD connector with a military spec sealed aluminum connector. This is when I discovered the extra looped wire that engages the trailer relays.
Funny story from back then. I first hooked up my trailer, check the lights real quick and they worked. Then some weeks later someone told me the trailer lights didn't work...sure enough!
Quickly tested the trailer on another car and the lights worked. Found a blown fuse in the Explorer, replaced, and lights worked again but not for long.
After 3 trips to the dealer, first two they claimed my trailer was bad, they finally found a ground wire in the harness up under the dashboard that never had the plastic insulation stripped off before crimping. So the lights were grounding back through one of the positive wires and blowing out the fuse. They worked a little then blew the fuse.
That little adventure really ticked me off. Fremont Ford, Fremont, CA if interested.
Funny story from back then. I first hooked up my trailer, check the lights real quick and they worked. Then some weeks later someone told me the trailer lights didn't work...sure enough!
Quickly tested the trailer on another car and the lights worked. Found a blown fuse in the Explorer, replaced, and lights worked again but not for long.
After 3 trips to the dealer, first two they claimed my trailer was bad, they finally found a ground wire in the harness up under the dashboard that never had the plastic insulation stripped off before crimping. So the lights were grounding back through one of the positive wires and blowing out the fuse. They worked a little then blew the fuse.
That little adventure really ticked me off. Fremont Ford, Fremont, CA if interested.