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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 07:27 PM
  #16  
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devino246
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From: Lynchburg, VA
Originally Posted by 79F150Seattle
I had an 80 Ford Fairmont that I drove as my work car. I did the primer and sanded it down myself. There were a couple spots I should have spent more time on. I took it to Maaco in Dayton, Ohio and had it painted original color, blue metallic. They did a good job overall but all they did, as I could tell, was 'tape and spray'. They even did the pin stripe for me.

Right now I cannot afford a total restoration as I have no garage or second car. I am going to fix the rust myself and will probably paint it myself using good auto paint to last a few years.
Out of curiosity, which level paint did you get? I know they have several different choices ranging from $300 jobs to $800 ones. I planning on having my car done there soon since Ive stripped the paint myself and done extensive body work. Ive seen several of their $300 results that looked awful, the emblems had been painted and the paint was flaking. Obviously you get what you pay for. Cheap, fast, good; pick two.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 09:03 PM
  #17  
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79F150Seattle
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From: Seattle, WA
Devino246... I got the basic one (cheapest). I had it for about 8 months before I sold it and moved to Seattle. It went through one winter and looked as good as when I first had it done.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 09:27 PM
  #18  
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devino246
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From: Lynchburg, VA
Originally Posted by 79F150Seattle
Devino246... I got the basic one (cheapest). I had it for about 8 months before I sold it and moved to Seattle. It went through one winter and looked as good as when I first had it done.
Thats what I was hoping. Im planning on getting their $600 single stage job.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 07:04 AM
  #19  
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miottimouse
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so would maaco be a thumbs up for the price? i was told 5 to 1200 not sure if thats just to get you in the door but even if it was close to 2 or 3000 still beats 8000 and 6 months of waiting they said 2 week turn-a-round good thing is i have no body work/rust issues other that 2 1/4" holes in the d/s door from a differnt mirror set up and i strip all the trim off my self to avoid damage i have done 3 trucks all ready as no one wants to mess with the trim on these trucks and with patiants i can get every thing off with out breaking any clips
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 07:56 AM
  #20  
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Grubbworm
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From: Acworth, GA
Originally Posted by mudder460
I just sanded my truck the past 2 weeks. I only took the really bad areas down to the bare metal. Everything else I just roughed up and tried to blend the edges together. I used an 80 grit flap wheel for the rusty areas, then I used 150 grit to get everything rough and then I used 320 grit to blend everything together. I am using a DAsander and an orbital sander from Harbor freight and a 33gl compressor. My compressor was running almost the whole time I was sanding but it kept up. It is a lot of work to do thins but worth it in the end knowing you did it. I used this place to get my sandpaper, pretty cheap and gread customer sevice: ProSourceCenter, Distributor and Wholesaler, Kerdi Ditra AbrasivePro Source Center distributor Abrasives Power Tools, Flooring Materials Just search for 6" PSA, I think I paid $18 for a 100ct roll. Good luck in whatever you decide to do.

Don't forget to use etching primer on the bare metal spots before you put your main primer down!
Mudder, I am sanding and priming my truck for paint right now also. I went to the collision supply house for my epoxy primer, high build primer, assorted other items, and plenty of free advise. The guys there told me that when you sand, you should not go more than 100 grit over the previous sanding. If you do then the current sanding won't remove the scratches from the previous sanding. I started with 150, sanding some spots to bare metal, I then used epoxy primer. After that, I wet-sanded and block sanded with 220. This weekend I am going to spray on the high-build primer. Next I will wet-sand and block sand with 320, and spray with primer again. Then I will use 400 grit and sand again. Once that is done I will use the epoxy primer again as a sealer until I am ready to paint next year. Right now I am only doing the bed. I have several rust spots to repair on the cab before I start on it. Once finished with the cab I will hang new fenders and a hood. I guess it just depends on how proficient I become with the sprayer as to whether or not I will paint it myself. I must also say that my truck is originally black and I am going to keep it that color. Because of how that color shows all the imperfections I have to be really careful and meticulous with my preparations. I have some pictures of what I am doing here; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...build-log.html

Superduty, I wish you luck with your project. Oh yeah, and you too Mudder.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 08:14 AM
  #21  
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91chevywt
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I can't speak with certainty about paint removal techniques of Maaco, but I'd be willing to bet they use a brush-on chemical stripper. Since Maaco makes their money by being a high volume shop, the method that can free up the most hands will probably win out. However, it's rare than anyone gets the paint completely stripped off a vehicle except for high-end restoration projects.

I had my F150 painted by Maaco after doing all my own body work, and it came out really nice. I paid about $690-$700 for a single stage acrylic urethane. I've seen numerous $2000-$3000 paint jobs, and anything in this price range is going to have some sort of flaw...coming out absolutely perfect is almost an accident. I have a very critical eye, and I'm happy with my F150. It's come out better than paint jobs costing 3-4 times as much. You can see pictures in my "garage"
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 08:29 AM
  #22  
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miottimouse
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hey 91 that looks realy good i would be happy with that seeing as though this bronco will be used for off road as well may as well give them a try [maaco] and hope for the best but its still going to be better than what i got now lol and if the job is decent i will get them to do my 79 scs as well when its ready
 
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