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Hey guys I just stopped by the dmv to register my truck. Guy couldn't read the vin because of paint any other idea where I can find one? Also my windshield wipers are not working at all. My gauges are also not working except for the tac. Any ideas for a fix just hanging out at the home depot for now. Until the rain stops
Hey guys I just stopped by the dmv to register my truck. Guy couldn't read the vin because of paint any other idea where I can find one? Also my windshield wipers are not working at all. My gauges are also not working except for the tac. Any ideas for a fix just hanging out at the home depot for now. Until the rain stops
Try Rain-X, it works wonders. I use it on all my vehicles and only have to use my windshield wipers half of the time.
One is on the Safety certification lable just below the drivers door striker bolt.
The other is on the dash to the bottom left side windsheild. Your Right side as seen through the windshield from the outside.
FYI: If someone put in a 1987-1996 windshield the vin number on the dash will be obscured.
Hopefully one of these will be readable.
The only other one is under the cab on top of the frame rail on the passenger side between the two cab mounts. Can be seen with a telescoping mirror etc... This is only a partial vin and is not complete.
Hey guys I made it home. We used some steel wool on the vin and it was readable so the DMV guy cleared it. The windshield wipers worked for a time but then they went out again and the fuse didn't fix the issue this time. Any other ideas?
Interesting, much appreciated. Does it matter that my gauges in my cluster are all not working sans my tach, and my illumination lights? I've noticed that when I let my parking brake out the needles tend to flutter I suspect from the vibration and it may have something to do with it. In any case I am going to wire in aftermarket gauges it drives me insane not knowing what exactly is going on in my motor.
Jiggle your key switch towards yourself, see if everything magically comes alive.
Those springs wear out and will lose the ability to correctly orient the switch in the RUN position with all electrically-operated accessories functioning.
Jiggle your key switch towards yourself, see if everything magically comes alive.
Those springs wear out and will lose the ability to correctly orient the switch in the RUN position with all electrically-operated accessories functioning.
DOPPP!!! he says as he slaps his head. I'm getting old, eh?
Jiggle your key switch towards yourself, see if everything magically comes alive.
Those springs wear out and will lose the ability to correctly orient the switch in the RUN position with all electrically-operated accessories functioning.
Interesting, I will give that a shot. I do appreciate the help everyone, thus far I am leaning towards the ICVR and the wiper switch. That being said I'd rather not just throw parts at the issue...
If the radio & heater fan & wipers also stop working at the same time the gauges stop working, that points to the ignition switch.
The backlights not coming on when you pull out the **** half way, that's a different issue with a different cause (which could be many). Have you rotated the **** all the way to the right? You might also look for an infamous melted tan wire right at the light switch, see if you have that and if other damage has been caused. Could also be a bad connection or bad ground.
The ICVR will affect:
Fuel level
Oil pressure
Water temperature
Those three gauges only, it has no effect on the ammeter. All 3 gauges will wig out together, will generally read substantially higher or lower than they normally do.
Before you go throwing parts at it, investigate it... what DOES work, what DOESN'T work, and WHEN.
Radio works, heaters/fan works. dash/cluster lights work, driving/brake/turns work. Tach works, speedo doesn't work but that is another issue related to the retaining clip I broke.
Amp meter works, the only 3 gauges that wig are the ones you mention and it certainly is intermittent.... They worked this morning and then they didnt. In terms of the wiper switch, best to just replace?
ETA: The gauges are not moved from the 0 or low position, in terms of the 3 I mentioned.
Could the wiper switch and this issue be related? No real hacking into the harness, I removed all the jacked up wiring for the brake controller but it only has 2 wires which were not connected to this region....
Amp meter works, the only 3 gauges that wig are the ones you mention and it certainly is intermittent....
When they don't work, see if any other electrical accessories also don't work. This could easily be caused by the the ignition switch needing to be jiggled.
Originally Posted by glovemeister
In terms of the wiper switch, best to just replace?
I wouldn't.
81-F-150-Explorer can tell you what to probe and what the expected voltages are. (Might also find it searching the archives, look for posts by him with certain keywords and see if you can find it.)
TEST AND DIAGNOSE things rather than just throw parts at it.
Because, the problem could also be your wiper motor, or the wiring, or......