drive shaft question
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2011
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drive shaft question
im gonna run the 302 with an aod in my 53 1/2 ton. will my stock drive shaft work.im thinking its gonna be to long? i ordered the kit to adapt these into my frame but havent recieved them yet to mock it up. has anyone used a drive shaft out of any other truck of car to fit without having to have one cut down or added to.i know that the yoke will have to be changed cause the little 3 speed had huge splines .and suggestions or advice.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 652
From: Brentwood, TN
It's best to just get a new shaft made up that fits and is correct for your application. Wait until you have the engine/trans and rearend installed and lined up...then take you measurements and go to a professional driveshaft builder. There are quite a few local to me, maybe you have a shop in your area as well. If not, there are many available online.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,135
Likes: 4,735
From: Burbank, WA
Like Charlie said, it's best to use your existing shaft and have it cut to your specification. It's a heavy duty shaft, and already has the ends you need. It's not that expensive to have one shortened, and it'll save you time and money in the long run. Finding one laying around in the junk yard that would be a perfect fit would be like looking for that proverbial needle in a haystack. You could look for years and never find it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,283
Likes: 1,046
From: NM
LOL, I'm not sure that's what Charlie said, Wayne! I thought he's saying have a completely new shaft made?
I'd go to the boneyard and get a shaft from a van that had AOD (matching front spline) and is plenty long, and not banged up. The cost of the yokes on the shafts is pretty steep, especially if you insist on a quality Spicer piece. The fit of the splines on the front is important for vibration and no leaks, watch out for Hecho en China parts. You can usually get a U-joint that has two cups to match the shaft, two to match the rear axle, that way you just need to shorten the shaft, re-using both yokes. You absolutely need to get it checked for balance and straightness.
I'd go to the boneyard and get a shaft from a van that had AOD (matching front spline) and is plenty long, and not banged up. The cost of the yokes on the shafts is pretty steep, especially if you insist on a quality Spicer piece. The fit of the splines on the front is important for vibration and no leaks, watch out for Hecho en China parts. You can usually get a U-joint that has two cups to match the shaft, two to match the rear axle, that way you just need to shorten the shaft, re-using both yokes. You absolutely need to get it checked for balance and straightness.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,960
Likes: 260
From: East KY
Riverside Machine Shop at the mouth of Whitco. 633-7257. 
They can shorten one to fit if you need them to. I imagine Jabo's machine shop up at Haymond can do one as well. They both do good work. Come over to my side of the mountain and look at my trucks sometime.
They can shorten one to fit if you need them to. I imagine Jabo's machine shop up at Haymond can do one as well. They both do good work. Come over to my side of the mountain and look at my trucks sometime.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 3
From: Morgan Hill, CA
I did more or less what Ross suggested. I picked up a 351w and a C6 from a donor 1989 F150. I grabbed the driveshaft when I picked up the rest. I had a driveline shop shorten the driveshaft and put on the right U-joint for the rear end. He replaced the front U-joint and balanced it while he was at it. I think the whole job was under $150.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,352
Likes: 1
From: Waleska, GA
For $225 shipped. Driveline Source(look on EBay for him) will send you a balanced shaft with new (made in USA) u-joints on both ends. One of the u-joint caps got bounced off in shipping thus loosing a few needle bearings. He replaced the cap without any hassle. The local place wanted $285 and it would have cost me extra in time and travel expenses as he's an hour away. The stock drive shaft wasn't long enough. I have a 53 with 302 and AOD. My shaft length (center of u-joint to center of u-joint) was 56 3/4" minus the standard deduction of 1" for movement for a total of 55 3/4". Apparently the yokes come in different lengths. Mine was the long one that I ordered through Summit Racing about $54)-it's a Ford racing part, so I feel OK with it. I put the shaft in the truck a couple of days ago and it seems to fit well.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 22
From: Oxford, Indiana
I agree with finding a suitable shaft that is too long and having it shortened. That is certainly the most cost effective route. I do NOT suggest ever reusing the original shaft out of the truck. I had an original shortened for another board member last year. My driveline guy had a fit over it. He said the driveline was like a piece of schedule 40 pipe. Very heavy and really hard to balance. They never ran them fast enough to worry about a well-balanced shaft back in the day. Find a newer shaft. You'll be glad you did.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 652
From: Brentwood, TN
East County Driveline here in El Cajon is where I go for my driveshaft needs. On my current 56 project I am running a 5.0/AOD with a 9 inch rearend. I took an old driveshaft into the shop with the intent of saving some money and having it modified for my truck. The guys there are real wizards with driveshafts and are able to see stuff that I didn't even know existed. In this particular case the yolk on my "old" driveshaft was bad and the shaft was too short. They gave me the option of using a used driveshaft from their stock or using new tubing and building a shaft from scratch. I opted for the used shaft with shortening and rebalancing. They shortened the shaft, installed top-of-the-line Spicer u-joints, installed a new yolk that had the proper depth for my AOD, and balanced the whole setup. They also painted it gloss black so when I picked it up it looked like brand new....$140 out the door. For that kind of service and at that price I am not going digging around any junkyards looking for a driveshaft. Hopefully you have such a shop in your area that you can go to...
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,283
Likes: 1,046
From: NM
The problem with any boneyard that lets you scrounge (like U-Pull) for a cheap piece is that by the time the vehicles get there, the forklift has likely lifted the van under the DS, or someone has used it to pry an engine up off it's mounts so they can get a used oil pan gasket for $5. The "full service" yards that are "professionally" managed are real proud of their parts.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2011
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thanks guys for all the information . there are some good shops around but not sure if they have any drive shafts laying around.i think i will try to mount my engine and trans first and the measure . i might find out what shafts are close to what i need in measurement on the net and then go from there, someone mentioned a ford van shaft i will get my measurements and then try to find someone parting out a truck or van. junk yards around here most of them are ruff on there parts cars not sure about getting one there.i have the one from the grand marquis i pulled the trans and engine from i drove this car home it ran , shifted, and pulled good when i drove it. it had the 8.8 rear but we used the gears from it for my old mans truck. the shaft for it looks kinda long ill check on it .thanks everyone and i will let yall know what i come up with.
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