Got an 88 302, EFI, that will not start. I just tested the codes and Blew a couple. 14 PIP circuit failure, 18 IDM Circuit fail/Spout circuit, 95 Fuel pump secondary/PCM to ground fail.

I have been testing the general systems all day, and everything tested checks out, that i have tested, yet tested these codes just now, gonna go disect some more, Would any of those codes keep the engine from starting?

P.S. Runs great if push started (manual). starter does not engage very strong, goes Wa...wa...wa,wa,wa,wa,wa. Starts slow, speeds up, dies down. battery, starter,altenator, ignition switch, either new or tested good.

tired of riding my bike, need my daily driver back

 

Code 14 - indicates the PIP circuit or sensor has failed.

Replace the PIP sensor in the bottom of the distributor being EXTREMELY careful NOT to damage the excitor ring that sits above it just beneath the rotor. Check the wiring between in and the TFI/ICM (ignition module mounted to the side of the distributor casting).

Code 18 - Indicates that SPOUT (SPark OUTput) signal to the computer was lost.

This is either the result of damaged wiring or a missing SPOUT connector/jumper. The YELLOW/GREEN or PINK (Ford changed the wire color at some point in the mid 80's) wire running from the ignition module to the distributor should have a small grey plug inline that allows the SPOUT signal to be interrupted so you can set base timing. If this connector is not fully seated or is missing, it must be reseated/replaced or the truck will never run as its supposed to because the computer cannot control spark timing. (It would be like removing the vacuum advance from and old style distributor).

Code 95 - was generated because of the first two Codes. Fix the first two and this one should clear itself because the computer won't turn the fuel pump ON unless it "knows" where to run spark timing. IF Code 95 is still present after fixing the first two, the truck won't run anyway and before replacing the fuel pump, make sure that the inertia switch has not tripped by depressing the red button on top of it.

 

First thanks for the reply. I was also curious as to wondering if a bad PIP sensor would keep the engine from starting. as said before it runs great, not sluggish or missfiring, but have to push start.

another thing i checked....when ignition in start position, only getting 3.5-4 volts to the starter, but 10 volts coming off the solenoid....is this normal? or bad wire?

 

My 89 had the same problem.

Since you can start it by pushing it, the error codes are probably meaningless. My guess is they are generated by a low voltage caused when you try to crank it over.

You need to get it cranking well first. I'd start by checking the lead from the solenoid to the starter, and the ground strap from the engine to the frame. Also check the leads from the battery to the solenoid and the negative to the frame. If you replace them go up in wire guage. I added an extra ground from the starter bolt to the frame.

Don't worry about anything else, until you can get it cranking well by jumping the solenoid.

 

You have definite connection issues with that kind of voltage at the solenoid. No matter which terminal you check, you are looking for battery voltage (+11.6 VDC minimum) or a volt or two less. Anything below that and it's time to check cables and connections.

A failed PIP sensor will absolutely keep the truck from starting.

 

You sure you don't have the distributor timing advanced too much? That would throw SPOUT and would also make your starter crank slow and I think it could cause you to throw a PIP code... just throwing another idea out in case it's not battery. I know about the SPOUT thing because my timing was advanced too much because of a slipped balancer, there were no real obvious symptoms like on a carbed truck except for that SPOUT code.

I'd check your battery/cables first, an 88 should probably need both a new ground and positive by now.

 

Fault Codes are NEVER meaningless. The computer cannot "lie". They may be anomalous due to poor voltage into the +5VDC power supply but ignition-related codes associated with the symptoms he's put forth should be considered plausible and dealt with accordingly until such time as the codes can be cleared and remain so while the engine runs properly. Until then, the issue that triggered them still exists anomalous or not.