I have a problem, I am in the mountains in Colorado. On the way out I started hearing a squealing/squeaking sort of sound pulling a 10K lb trailer with my Excursion. I was going up the mountain today and it got worse the started grinding really bad, it sounded terrible. I stopped then kept going and I made it to the camp and parked it. No noise at idle. It seamed to get worse when I accelerated. The original squeaking noise sounded like morse code, not a steady squeak or squeal. I can't determine whether it's the front or rear. When it started grinding it sounded like the front. I just talked to a guy at the shop in town, he thought rock caught in rotor but the sound started before I hit the gravel. He also said wheel bearings which I suspect it is. The front end was a bit wobbly when I had to ride the brakes towing down the mountain pass. Didn't notice any other time when braking. The noise originally seemed to stop when I hit the brakes so I thought at first it was just the brakes dragging some but they are pretty new. FYI, the truck has 140K miles, never had to replace a bearing. I've replaced the belt, pulley and tensioner before I left home. I believe the wobble and noises indicate wheel bearings.

One odd thing, when I was looking under the truck, I couldn't find anything that was hot in the drive line but I did notice a small fuel leak before the fuel pump. I have re-done the fuel system and just have rubber hose before the pump. I also have a lifter pump. At any rate the fuel pump was a bit hot, don't know if that is normal or not. Would a fuel pump make this noise? It just seems odd that it just started. Probably not it but thought I'd check.

I have an injured back so I can't jack it up and trouble shoot this one or work on it myself. I am taking it to the shop tomorrow. If it's wheel bearings, would driving cause any further damage? I need to know whether to get it towed or drive down? It's about 9 miles to town. Sorry about the rambling post but I am in a hurry and need quick advice, I have to head back to camp soon. Luckily the wife rented a car so I have a way to town and someone to follow if I drive. If anyone has advice I would appreciate it!

Thanks!
Steve

 

When my spring tip isolators failed, it sounded like morse code. Almost like someone was banging the floorboards with a bunch of hammers. It was a random sound accompanied by vibrations you could feel through your shoes. You didn't mention that you noticed any vibration so you probably don't have the same issue as I had...

If you suspect wheel bearings then it's most likely up front. Looks like you have a 4x4 so it could be your hubs instead. One way to check is to manually lock your hubs and see if the noise goes away. If so, then you can unlock one at at time to see which side it's at.

I always carry an IR gun when I travel, that way I can measure the temperature of the wheel bearings of both the truck and trailer. If you have an IR gun, drive around a little bit and then check your wheel temps and see if one is hotter than the rest, if so then you might have found your problem. On the front wheels, you want to measure the temps inside and outside. The outside is your hub bearings, the inside will be your carrier bearings. You will have to reach around the tire to get that second reading so it might be a little tough with a bad back.

Another issue that is fairly common is a stuck slide pin on your brake calipers. When they stick, the caliper won't center itself and one pad will wear out really fast and start metal on metal grinding. It's not uncommon for this to happen after a recent brake job so don't rule that out just yet. This issue is pretty easy to spot because one side of your rotor might show some scarring by now. You can also remove the tire and visually inspect the pads to see if they have any material left. You can do this without removing the caliper.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

If it's the wheel bearings, I would consider a tow. Better safe than sorry. The bearings are what hold the wheel hubs to the knuckle/axle. If they go out, then it relys on the brake caliper to keep the hub assembly from falling off. Any more driving with the bearings out increases the likelyhood of more damage that may not be present yet.

 

They want $225 to tow, I'm going to check a few things when I get back.

 

My drivers side failed on my F250...it would actually grab and make a sound I cant describe...almost like a brake caliper hanging up bad and it actually pulled the steering wheel to the left....it would do this mostly when cold for the first couple miles then stop, not your exact symptom but that was my experience....when I pulled it off, it was literally falling apart . No squeaking though in my case.

 

a hub bearing can last a while after it starts making noise. a 9 mile trip to the shop wont kill it. trip home might

 

Thanks for the input guys, drove it to the shop this morning, I will post when I find out what's wrong.
Steve

 

Got it back from the shop, they said it was the driver's side hub. I knew it was locked up, couldn't even turn with pliers. Didn't replace as they have to get the part from another town. Anyway, I am having them check on Warn hubs, I think they are cheaper and better than the Ford hubs. Those just pull out after removing the retaining ring correct? If I put Warn hubs on, how do I plug the vacuum line? Any real trick? I may have the shop do it, but I am going to call on the part and check price. The good news, they didn't charge me anything for the hub diagnosis.
Thanks guys,
Steve

 

called the parts store, they want $207 for each Warn hub. Does that sound about right. Looks like amazon is $193.
Thanks

 

If I remember correctly Warn hubs are sold in pairs not as each. I believe it might be 1 each is actually a pair of hubs. Clay could confirm for sure at Riff Raff Diesel he probably has the cheapest price anyway(but not sure). Worse comes to worse if it is the lock out hub you could pull it off and drive home without it. Just cover the hole with duct tape to keep dirt out. Till you can fix it properly with whatever you are going to go with Warn or stock again when you get home.

One word of advice make sure the snap ring for the hub is seated properly when you put it back on or it will fly off ask me how I know. LOL

Yes removal of the stock hub is the snap ring off and pull it out. I cant remember when I did my Warn hubs but I thought it came with rubber or plastic caps for the ESOF. But mine has a manual transfer case so no esof.

For what its worth I would go with Warn hubs and be done with it never have to mess with them again.


I have a spare stock hub you can have if you want it. To get you back in business. Let me know and I can toss it in the mail.


Lance

 

Yes warn hubs come as a set for the truck.

to plug the vac line I cut it off close to the frame and put a golf tee in that end. unscrew the end that the hose was on and replace with 1/8" pipe plugs.

 

Where in the mountains are you? I live at the bottom of the hills on I-70 if you need something brought up from Denver or you could have it shipped to my place and I would be willing to drive it up.

Dale

 

O'rileys is under 300.00 for the set of warn they had them on the shelf in phx.

 

I am in the Crested Butte area, wish I was closer to Denver. I am going to see if there is anywhere in gunnison that may have them cheaper than Napa. I may see if I can find someplace in town that I could have them Fedexed to, unlikely though. It's always something!
Steve

 

you can find that line on your inner fender near the vacuum pump... plug it there and you can remove/forget about the rest of the lines.