Alright guys I have my makeshift body shop 10x20 tent in my backyard all sealed up and lite up ready to start some work. I need suggestions as far as use with either Por-15 or rust bullet. What steps are used with theses as far as order of welding,bondo, primer, etc? Ill be doing all this for the first time it's risky but worth a shot. If anyone can break it down for me I'd appreciate it! I'll even be spraying it down myself with a flat black.
Thanks!!!

 

POR-15 is expensive, I've used it once and it seemed tough as nails. Two major things I didn't like about it will stick to your skin and will not come off, it has to wear off which takes about two weeks. They strongly suggest wearing gloves, which I did, but when working around metal with all the sharp edges and trying to get the product in every nook and cranny the gloves tend to get torn up. They became pretty much useless after a short period of time. Also, the cost. You cannot cover POR-15 without either using one of their binding products, more $$, or they suggest misting their product with primer just as it starts getting tacky. I did this using epoxy primer and the POR-15 lifted giving me a very crinkled finish. Also, POR-15 likes a "tooth" to adhere to like sandblasted or stable, firm rust, it does not still well to nice clean smooth metal. Using bondo over POR-15 will be the same as trying to apply paint, it will not stick. You are better off grinding all the rust off before applying the filler.

I have never use Rust Bullet but I think you can directly paint over it without additional product.

On my latest project I am using a two part epoxy prime used to paint outside structures like water towers and bridges, items that are hard to completely clean of rust and are exposed to the elements.

Rust Encapsulator

It's a two part epoxy mastic, POR-15 and the others are one part urethane mastics. POR-15 will start to dry as soon as you open the can. There a few tricks you can use to stretch out the dry time but it will eventually dry in a relatively short period of time. The epoxy mastic I am using it a two part system and will not harden until the two parts are mixed together. It is also about 1/3 the price of POR-15. I bought the two gallons, one the base epoxy and the other the activator, for around $100. After thinning with lacquer thinner I'll have about 3 gallons of the primer to use. POR-15 sells for around $45 a quart around here and over $100 for a gallon. The epoxy I am using is a PPG product and I think it can only be bought in the two gallon kit but it's still cheaper than the POR-15 product.

As for durability, the epoxy sprays pretty easy and also brushes on easily. It dries to a matte finish. I haven't had it exposed to the elements yet but while installing my brake system a good amount of brake fluid has leaked on to the frame and the epoxy was not affected at all.

All of these rust encapsulator type paints are UV sensitive and will faint if exposed for long periods of time to the sun. They'll all fade or get chalky looking but they protection will not be affected.

Also, be aware, you need adequate ventilation when using any kind of chemical like paint or body filler. Don't seal up your "body shop" too tight. You need a lot of air and ventilation. I'd leave two sides open to get a good cross breeze going through the space. Also, if your' going to use a fan for ventilation realize you're passing vapor through an electrical motor that can ignite them.

 

Thanks!!! That's alot more than I anticipated. For the two part epoxy mastic, can I bondo over that and get a good stick if scuffed up?

 

Hi, are you talking about just the frame (por15) or the body work or both?

Seeing as how you have not put your year and model or your location in your post your punishment will be the delusional ramblings of a senile old fart.

In my opinion body work is the most frustrating time consuming insane thing a person can do and practice your drinking because anyone that has done it drinks (a lot).

I admire you ambition and by no means are discouraging you, so go at it, just keep in mind that body work takes much (years) time and practice (years) and get used to doing over, and over again.

There is really no right way, just many that will get the same result. (Not like mechanical stuff) The info that you need should be on some of the paint suppliers web sites, and oh, I don’t like body work.

 

I have a 49 f-1 with a 51 cab.... Yes both most of the frame and body and inside the cab(prob just the floor)

 

I used Por 15 on my frame and what I like about it is the coverage you get, especially with a brush. I did my front suspension as well and it is neat to see how it self levels even on the coil springs which I thought I would need to sand blast again as it looked bad at night but in the morning it looked like I had sprayed it. (real nice). Great if you don't have a spray gun handy.
I used latex gloves as it will not come off your hands.
My 2 cents!
Good Luck!

 

Thanks so far por15 for the frame is my direction and the two part epoxy for the body

 

I used POR 15 on my frame (with a brush) & it is tough as nails....and yes, if you get it on your skin, be prepared to have it there for a couple of weeks.

I have some more body work to do on a few small parts & bought some POR products for those. They sell a body filler that bonds to the POR primer. The also sell a gray sanding primer that bonds to both the POR primer and the body filler.

To put the POR primer on, they advise that you use their cleaner (marine clean) followed by a phosphoric acid wash (metal ready), a water rinse, then the POR primer after the metal dries. So far these steps have worked for me, but I haven't tried the body filler yet....maybe this weekend.

Dan

 

I used one (1) quart of POR15 for my entire frame. I painted it on - the missus and I tweaked one evening until midnight brushing away... She was on top and I was on the bottom (keep it clean) of the frame then we both did the sides... Let me tell you, when I say tweaked I mean it because during the process we were giddy, silly even funny but couldn't figure out why..? POR15! Strong, durable, lasting.

When it comes to application, we brushed it on. It seemed that it would look like a brushed on surface looks afterwards, but in reality, the next morning - after sleeping through "the high" - EVERYTHING looked awesome. Had some people asked if the frame had been powder coated? I really like this product.

Regarding taking it off your skin once it touches you... FOHGETABOWTIT! I inadvertently laid my head on a drop that somehow spilled (she spilled it) on the floor and reached my scalp - ouch! I had to go get a hair cut later what week - needed one anyway... and as far as the skin, I used one of her foot scrubbing lava rocks - basically rubbed the product AND MY SKIN OFF, but I got it off - while she lived 10 days plus advertising POR15 on her forearm... We laugh about it now.

POR15 hands down is my vote.

Paul

 

Man you guys are reallya something, Dan lmk if you use the filler,Paul I'll have to try those positions with my lady hahahaha, and the rest of you thanks for the info!!!!!!!

 

I haven't had time yet to experiment with the epoxy mastic I'm using on the frame to see if body filler will stick to it. The instructions say you have to recoat with a top coat paint within , I think, 48 hours or after 48 hours give it a scuff down with a scuff pad or the top coat paint won't stick. This is true for any other epoxy primer, they only give you a day or so to apply the top coat before you have to scuff up the surface, which isn't a big deal. The newest trend in auto body repair is to apply body filler over epoxy primer. The epoxy primer bonds better to the bare metal than the body filler. Body filler will not hold very well if it's applied too thick, maybe 1/4" at the most. Some people have been able to build it up 1/2" or thicker and it will look good for a while until some one bumps into the side of the vehicle and then a big chunk will probably pop off.

Body work is as much fun or a challenge as you let it be. I personally like to do body work, especially rust repair by cutting out the rotted metal and replacing with new metal. I have never bought a premade patch panel, I have always made my own. I suppose it's a talent like anything else, some people can do it without much thought others are driven nuts by it. Take you time and think it through.

 

I have used POR15 for about 10 years now. POR can be great or it can be a pain in the butt. MAKE sure you never use a degreaser to prep things (unless it's PORs metal prep). POR also hates mineral spirits and oils on the metal before applying.

Wear latex gloves AND a pair of brown jersey gloves. The brown gloves will keep torn latex gloves to a minimum and the latex will prevent soaking of the skin.

POR will give you decent results but remember it is not the same as blasting the frame, etc. POR encapsulates the rust, it does not remove the rust. Scuff up a cured patch of POR and the rust will still be there. Also make sure to cover POR for UV protection. I scotch-brite scuff POR and paint over with satin black Rustoleum. POR by itself will get chalky with sun exposure and even frames will chalk over time.

Good luck.

 

I used Chassis Saver on my frame 3 years ago and its held up well. In my gallery there are some pics.

 

What about blasting the frame and THEN using POR15? I'm just curious, as of right now that is/was my plan...lol.

 

Hi There,

I wanted to chime in on the POR 15 since I have been using it to paint my front end pieces and have been planning to use it on my frame. The POR 15 itself goes on and dries without brush strokes and yes, use gloves - this stuff will stick and not come off. When I get a hole in my gloves I just throw on another pair, in fact it wouldn't hurt to start with 2 pairs on in the first place.

Go by the instructions and don't cut corners with the prep work. In my opinion, a sandblasted part is best to start with, but if you do a good job with a wire wheel, you'll get good results. I had my front end off my truck in pieces, so the smaller parts like the backing plates, spring hangars, smaller sheet metal, radiator stand, I was able to get sandblasted at my local machine shop and bigger parts, such as my straight axle I used my angle grinder with wire wheel.

It's my suggestion that if you go POR 15, use their products to do the cleaning and preparation. I used their marine clean and metal ready to prep the parts, then brushed 2 coats of POR 15, then one (topcoat) coat of their chassis coat. I'm pretty happy with the results. I found that the more porous the surface (such as the straight axle) turn out better with the topcoat then smooth surfaces. On my tie rod and on my radiator stand, the POR 15 self leveled nicely, but when I top coated them by brush, the topcoat did not self level very well (there's brush marks).

I like the suggestion someone had about brushing the POR 15 and then spraying the topcoat, so after all of your hard work, you don't end up with brush marks on those smooth surfaces. I currently plan to do this with my frame - brush the coats of POR 15 and likely get the rattle can chassis coat (POR 15 product) for the topcoat.

I've also used their engine enamel on my brake drums (brush painted after sandblast) - this turned out real well and a paint called "metal mask" (on my backing plates, spring hangers and perches) and this brushes on and dries nicely too.

Good Luck - show us photos!! Joe

Axle photos: