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Master Cylinder Bleeding?

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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 06:41 AM
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Master Cylinder Bleeding?

About to replace the master cylinder, calipers and flexible hoses on my 2000 E250 van using Ford OEM parts naturally. Any special steps I need to take when bleeding the system after all these new parts are installed?

Thanks!
 
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 07:23 AM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...es-system.html Maybe watch this vid.
Most important is to "bench" bleed the master cyl, preferably before fitting it. Often new master cyls come with the little pipes and instructions on how to do it.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 06:34 AM
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Thanks for the reply Lazy K------its been nearly 40 years since I changed a master cylinder but that video link brings it all back!

Mucho appreicated!

J W
 
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 12:19 PM
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bleeding

I am still surprised at the number of mechanics that still use the pump-em up method of bleeding the brake lines. Gravity bleeding to me is the best way. It can be done by yourself and it also serves to replace all the brake fluid in the system. A rarely thought of item, as brake fluid does eventually break down. When you gravity bleed, do one at a time till you get clean fluid making sure to keep the master cylinder full at all times.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Deven Mays
I am still surprised at the number of mechanics that still use the pump-em up method of bleeding the brake lines. Gravity bleeding to me is the best way. It can be done by yourself and it also serves to replace all the brake fluid in the system. A rarely thought of item, as brake fluid does eventually break down. When you gravity bleed, do one at a time till you get clean fluid making sure to keep the master cylinder full at all times.
I agree, except how the hell do you do it by yourself????
 
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 12:51 PM
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bleeding by yourself

Fill master to the top and leave open. Open one bleeder and let drain.To keep from making a mess it helps to put a hose on it and drop into container. If it doesn't start by itself you can bump the brake lightly to get the flow going. I've been doing it this way for 30 years. No "pump it up, hold" bs anymore. Master cylinder has to be a firewall mount. There are the rare, usually vintage that are under the floorboard. Feel free to ask if you need help.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Deven Mays
Fill master to the top and leave open. Open one bleeder and let drain.To keep from making a mess it helps to put a hose on it and drop into container. If it doesn't start by itself you can bump the brake lightly to get the flow going. I've been doing it this way for 30 years. No "pump it up, hold" bs anymore. Master cylinder has to be a firewall mount. There are the rare, usually vintage that are under the floorboard. Feel free to ask if you need help.
I would think that would make the brakes extremely soft... and the pressure would move out air, where gravity will not. Not saying air will make you lose brakes... but I don't want any air in my lines if I can help it. Ive replaced a handfull of master cylinders, and always did the pump/hold method...havent had a failure yet.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 01:15 PM
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This method removes all air. When there is no pressure on the pedal there is no pressure in the lines. I always have very firm brakes. All new fluid with no air. It works.
 
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