72 ELECTRICAL LEMON
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From: ROCKVILLE, CT.
72 ELECTRICAL LEMON
NOTE: I already posted this in the bump side forum but I want to cover the bases. Thanks, Todd.
Man, I really have some luck. Figures I would get a truck that mechanically has been super but electrically speaking a pure effing lemon. The one area that is my Achilles heel.
Okay. new problems. Yes plural. ARRGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!
LEMON: 72 F250
Not quite sure what happened. My son was driving and he said it acted like it was starving for fuel and then died. Would not start again. I checked truck at tow site and it cranked but would not start. Tried starting it Saturday afternoon to see if I could determine if spark was issue. Battery had power ( checked lights, radio, interior light, fan, all good ) went to turn ignition to start and nothing. Not even a click?
History. Had issues with truck back in April / May. Wasn't running right, thought it was ignition system related. Replaced Solenoid, Battery, Alternator, coil, regulators ( OEM on radiator wall and aftermarket on alternator ( how truck was configured when I bought it ...'FUBAR' ) ) and electronic ignition module. Brought truck to shop after all my shade tree mechanic troubleshooting failed and mechanic fixed issue by fixing vacuum and timing. Ran like a top afterwards.
After I picked up the truck the brake lights stopped working. Also, it is apparent that there is a short somewhere ( brakes? ) which is drawing on the battery Battery dead in the morning ( keep in mind new battery ). Battery is also outgassing ( over charging or ground issue? )
I know very little of electrical but I think that the brake light issue is the start to the current problems. I'm probably more wrong than right. It is an old truck and the liklihood that it has multiple issues is high.
Also, it had dual batteries but the way it was wired was not factory. I disconnected ( not right term, hard to explain ) second battery after I got truck back from the shop. I wanted to clean up engine compartment of crap that was apparently doing nothing ( some B.S. horn and the second battery and cables from sceond battery that were not hooked up to anything).
So, WTF???? ARRRRGHHHH!!!! First it dies, will crank but won't start, have it towed, check it the next day, battery is good but no crank, not even a click.
Gee, what should I replace first? Can somebody say truck?
I wish I knew electrical because I would just rip out the harness and start from scratch. Still tempted to rip it out and make it a 5 grand planter. ARRRGGGGHHHHH!!!!
Ideas??? any help would be great. Thanks Todd.
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Man, I really have some luck. Figures I would get a truck that mechanically has been super but electrically speaking a pure effing lemon. The one area that is my Achilles heel.
Okay. new problems. Yes plural. ARRGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!
LEMON: 72 F250
Not quite sure what happened. My son was driving and he said it acted like it was starving for fuel and then died. Would not start again. I checked truck at tow site and it cranked but would not start. Tried starting it Saturday afternoon to see if I could determine if spark was issue. Battery had power ( checked lights, radio, interior light, fan, all good ) went to turn ignition to start and nothing. Not even a click?
History. Had issues with truck back in April / May. Wasn't running right, thought it was ignition system related. Replaced Solenoid, Battery, Alternator, coil, regulators ( OEM on radiator wall and aftermarket on alternator ( how truck was configured when I bought it ...'FUBAR' ) ) and electronic ignition module. Brought truck to shop after all my shade tree mechanic troubleshooting failed and mechanic fixed issue by fixing vacuum and timing. Ran like a top afterwards.
After I picked up the truck the brake lights stopped working. Also, it is apparent that there is a short somewhere ( brakes? ) which is drawing on the battery Battery dead in the morning ( keep in mind new battery ). Battery is also outgassing ( over charging or ground issue? )
I know very little of electrical but I think that the brake light issue is the start to the current problems. I'm probably more wrong than right. It is an old truck and the liklihood that it has multiple issues is high.
Also, it had dual batteries but the way it was wired was not factory. I disconnected ( not right term, hard to explain ) second battery after I got truck back from the shop. I wanted to clean up engine compartment of crap that was apparently doing nothing ( some B.S. horn and the second battery and cables from sceond battery that were not hooked up to anything).
So, WTF???? ARRRRGHHHH!!!! First it dies, will crank but won't start, have it towed, check it the next day, battery is good but no crank, not even a click.
Gee, what should I replace first? Can somebody say truck?
I wish I knew electrical because I would just rip out the harness and start from scratch. Still tempted to rip it out and make it a 5 grand planter. ARRRGGGGHHHHH!!!!
Ideas??? any help would be great. Thanks Todd.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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Likes: 2,742
From: Virginia
First off, do you have a voltmeter or multi-meter? If not, you need to get one and learn how to use it. If you are going to keep this truck and do the work yourself, you are going to have to learn about electrical and how to use the meter. If you have a meter, write back in and we can test some things.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,936
Likes: 9
From: Acworth, GA
First off, do you have a voltmeter or multi-meter? If not, you need to get one and learn how to use it. If you are going to keep this truck and do the work yourself, you are going to have to learn about electrical and how to use the meter. If you have a meter, write back in and we can test some things.
Very wisely put Franklin.
I have some good reading that might help you with some troubleshooting issues here;
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Grubbworm's Album: Troubleshooting help, for anyone that needs it.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: ROCKVILLE, CT.
MULTIMETER
Very wisely put Franklin.
I have some good reading that might help you with some troubleshooting issues here;
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Grubbworm's Album: Troubleshooting help, for anyone that needs it.
I have some good reading that might help you with some troubleshooting issues here;
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Grubbworm's Album: Troubleshooting help, for anyone that needs it.
Thanks guys! I do have a multimeter and I need to read the manual. I'm going to go into grubworms stuff here as soon as I can. Thanks again, Todd.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: ROCKVILLE, CT.
First off, do you have a voltmeter or multi-meter? If not, you need to get one and learn how to use it. If you are going to keep this truck and do the work yourself, you are going to have to learn about electrical and how to use the meter. If you have a meter, write back in and we can test some things.
Thanks Franklin. Why is it that multimeter makers think everyone knows electrical vocabulary, symbols, or other basics? My instruction manual makes many assumptions on user knowledge. It says to put the meter on a setting ( Volts ) but on the meter it uses symbols and I'm not sure which symbol goes to what setting. Yes, I am that ignorant. I didn't say stupid.
AC volts
DC volts
OHMS
Amps
Arrrgghhh!!!! Hair tearing out!!
Seems like there is no electrical for dummies book out there.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Most vehicles use 12 volts DC with a few exceptions that you will probably not run into. So you need to set the meter to read DC(direct current) and you need to estimate what voltage you will be reading and set the range if your meter is not auto-ranging.
So if you meter has a 0-20 volt range, a 0-200 volt range, etc. and you know you will be reading in the neighborhood of 12 volts, you need to set the meter on the 0-20v range. A good thing to do each time you are going to use the meter is set it up, and then stick it on the battery terminals to make sure it's working correctly.
If your meter has a A/C scale, then that's what you would use to test a outlet in your house, since the house electric is A/C(alternating current). You know the outlet is around 110 volt to 120v, so you would set the range on the 0-200 volt scale to take that reading.
So if you meter has a 0-20 volt range, a 0-200 volt range, etc. and you know you will be reading in the neighborhood of 12 volts, you need to set the meter on the 0-20v range. A good thing to do each time you are going to use the meter is set it up, and then stick it on the battery terminals to make sure it's working correctly.
If your meter has a A/C scale, then that's what you would use to test a outlet in your house, since the house electric is A/C(alternating current). You know the outlet is around 110 volt to 120v, so you would set the range on the 0-200 volt scale to take that reading.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: ROCKVILLE, CT.
Ford
Well some good news cuz I'm a glass half full kinda guy.
Found out the ignition module was fried after I replaced the solenoid. So, it is running but I know my root cause is still there. I can't see any logical reason why the solenoid would fry right after the ignition module unless there was an underlying problem. Especially since both parts are new.
Still have to figure out the problem with the brake lights and also where the drain is coming from.
Found out the ignition module was fried after I replaced the solenoid. So, it is running but I know my root cause is still there. I can't see any logical reason why the solenoid would fry right after the ignition module unless there was an underlying problem. Especially since both parts are new.
Still have to figure out the problem with the brake lights and also where the drain is coming from.
Trending Topics
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
New parts are not always good parts. There has been a rash of cheap junk solenoids being sold the past few years that do not last.
Here's a way to see if you have a drain.
Here's a way to see if you have a drain.
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From: forest city nc.
I recently finished repairing a customers '89 diesel after he tried replacing 3 starter solonoids and draws. I replaced the STARTER with the new underdrive unit, new solonoid,2 new BATTS., and a glowplug timer ! truck runs new again.
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From: ROCKVILLE, CT.
Hey Franklin, with the ignition off correct?
Moderator
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From: Virginia
Yes, with the ignition off, and make sure the door is closed to turn the domelight off. Anything that comes on will be a draw. Small drains for radio memories and things like that are normal, and should not make the testlight glow.
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