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Ah, now I remember.
I had issues with my drag truck 2 years back when I did the disk conversion, and I took that valve off in hopes to increase pressure to the rear disks.
Didn't work like I had hoped, but you're right, that there is the prop valve.
No Prop valve needed. Just leave the system as is.
To Bleed PS system jack the truck up and turn lock to lock. Also push the brake numerous times. Double check your PS lines are in the correct ports as well.
ok guys a little update. when the truck is on and the power steering is turned lock to lock it makes a humming noise coming from the power steering gear box. it also makes a humming noise coming from the hydroboost wheel the pedal is fully depressed. Is the line that was previously attached to the vacuum booster supposed to be hooked up to anything? where exactly does each line hook up. Please help guys im getting desperate here.
ok guys a little update. when the truck is on and the power steering is turned lock to lock it makes a humming noise coming from the power steering gear box. it also makes a humming noise coming from the hydroboost wheel the pedal is fully depressed. Is the line that was previously attached to the vacuum booster supposed to be hooked up to anything? where exactly does each line hook up. Please help guys im getting desperate here.
Thanks,
Chris
The Vacuum line from the booster should just be plugged off.
Even if the hydroboost is not working or fails you will have full manual brakes. So with the truck off the pedal should be very firm. What does the pedal do when you pump it with the engine off? It sounds like the rear disc brakes are requiring to much fluid and the master cylinder can not supply the amount you need in one pedal motion. If they firm up when pumped you need to consider adding a 10psi such as this Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-1876 - Wilwood Residual Pressure Valves - Overview - SummitRacing.com . Also these trucks DO NOT have any proportioning valve stock as that feature is all controlled by the RABS system.
ok i thought i read a thread that said there was a proportioning valve installed stock. i guess ill install the one i bought now. whoops. Ill check back in after that
Also the noise you are hearing from the steering box sounds like a cavitation issue to me. Is the pump full of fluid? I am pretty sure the pressure hoses can only go in one way but just to confirm the one on the top is the pressure in from the pump and the one lower towards the drivers fender goes to the steering box. Make sure both return lines are the correct 3/8'' size and have no restrictions.
ok i thought i read a thread that said there was a proportioning valve installed stock. i guess ill install the one i bought now. whoops. Ill check back in after that
Yeah the stock system is not a great setup. The master cylinder will deliver full pressure to the back brakes then the rabs valve on the frame will limit the pressure based on wheel speed and hold it at that pressure during the entire braking cycle. This makes for fun and exciting panic stops as it won't let you use your full braking potential and it puts way to much stress on the front brakes. It should be a 70/30 split on the brakes but stock it is more like 85/15 and not good IMHO.
You have an issue with the actual brake hydraulics no the hydroboost setup. With the truck off you should have a rock solid pedal.
Don't bother with the proportioning valve it is not needed. I speak from experience it is NOT needed. Even in winter ice the brakes function perfect. You either have a push rod issue between the HB and master cylinder or you have air in the system
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