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EPIC's Door Seal Modification

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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 04:58 PM
  #16  
Tacswa3's Avatar
Tacswa3
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From: Maryland
Has anyone been successful doing it with their Extended cab 6.7? The Ext cab's have a 6 inch piece of foam in the door seal at the bottom of the rear doors. I didn't know this until I couldn't push the tubing through. Its tricky to get that piece of foam out and I ended up tearing the door seal a bit getting it out. Never did get my tubing through. Haven't tried it again after that nightmare.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #17  
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TexasA&M
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
I completed this mod this weekend and all went well. I had trouble getting the hose to stay on the fish tape, so I had to cut the hose, and then actually hook it to the fish tape. Once I figured this out, it went very smoothly.

I did have a couple of problems though... On the first door that I did, I cut the hose flush with the door seal ends and then started putting it back together. I should have left some slack though as the hose was still stretched inside the seal, and when it went back to its natural size/shape, the hose shrunk by about 15"! So basically I have a spot at the bottom of the door that is empty of the surgical hose. It ended up not being a huge deal because my rattle is still gone, but it is something to be aware of. You should leave plenty of slack, and then stretch the door seal out before re-installing and cutting the surgical hose.

Speaking of stretching... On each door, when I put the seal back on, I noticed that I had a gap of about 1". I believe this is due to the new 'shape' that the seal takes when putting the hose inside of it. I had to stretch mine out good between two people, and then stretch it as I was putting it back on the door.

All in all, it was pretty easy to do. So far, it has fixed my door rattle, which was my main goal. I *think* that the wind noise is down, but I'm not positive. I need to ride in my dad's truck and listen to the wind noise, and then ride in mine right after to compare.

FYI, in the 50' spool I ordered, it was a single piece, so that made it very easy to do all four doors. I got it here for $38 shipped.

Latex Tubing | Surgical Rubber Tubbing | ActiveForever.com
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 01:22 PM
  #18  
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EpicCowlick
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: North of Salt Lake City
Originally Posted by TexasA&M
I completed this mod this weekend and all went well. I had trouble getting the hose to stay on the fish tape, so I had to cut the hose, and then actually hook it to the fish tape. Once I figured this out, it went very smoothly.

I did have a couple of problems though... On the first door that I did, I cut the hose flush with the door seal ends and then started putting it back together. I should have left some slack though as the hose was still stretched inside the seal, and when it went back to its natural size/shape, the hose shrunk by about 15"! So basically I have a spot at the bottom of the door that is empty of the surgical hose. It ended up not being a huge deal because my rattle is still gone, but it is something to be aware of. You should leave plenty of slack, and then stretch the door seal out before re-installing and cutting the surgical hose.

Speaking of stretching... On each door, when I put the seal back on, I noticed that I had a gap of about 1". I believe this is due to the new 'shape' that the seal takes when putting the hose inside of it. I had to stretch mine out good between two people, and then stretch it as I was putting it back on the door.

All in all, it was pretty easy to do. So far, it has fixed my door rattle, which was my main goal. I *think* that the wind noise is down, but I'm not positive. I need to ride in my dad's truck and listen to the wind noise, and then ride in mine right after to compare.

FYI, in the 50' spool I ordered, it was a single piece, so that made it very easy to do all four doors. I got it here for $38 shipped.

Latex Tubing | Surgical Rubber Tubbing | ActiveForever.com
Hey Tex - Good pointers. For the section that slid back into the molding, just cut another smaller section of tubing and fill the space. There's no problem with it not being part of a continuous piece, the function is simply to act as a spacer.

I got to help with another set of doors last Saturday with another FTE member. It was fun to do again. Our re-learnings are:
  • Use the liquid silicone spray. Some come in a foamy delivery and it doesn't work as well.
  • Make sure to spray silicone into the holes before running the fish tape up the length of the door seal.
  • Pre-spray the fish tape end so you can get several inches of tubing over it.
  • Wrap the electricians tape tightly over the tubing which is over the end of the fish tape. Loose tape equals disconnect while pulling.
  • Really soak the taped up part of the tubing before pulling through. That really helps.
  • Pull the tubing a good foot past the end and then stretch the entire molding to relieve any remaining stretch in the tubing. The excess tubing at the end will pretty much pull back flush with the end of the molding.
  • If it pulls back into the molding, just cut a few inches as needed and fill the space.
  • When re-installing the molding on the truck, give it a little tension so the ends come together perfectly flush.

Also, consider finding tubing at a medical supply (oxygen tank) store. They have boatloads of it as cheap as any we have found online and it always comes in a continuous single length. Like most things, you get really good at this by about the 3rd door. The work itself is about a half hour. Gabbing about trucks and other upgrades makes it a 90 minute project.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 01:28 PM
  #19  
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TexasA&M
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
I couldn't get the tubing to stay on the fish tape no matter how far I stuck it in there, but cutting a slit and 'hooking' it worked pretty well. No need for tape then.

Also, I thought about putting more tube in the now empty space, but I'm not sure how to cram it in there. I probably won't mess with it at all if in fact my rattle is truly gone.

You are correct... by the third door, it is VERY easy to do. I think it took me as long to do the first door as it did the last three combined.

Very pleased with the mod overall. We'll see if the wife can tell a difference in wind noise later this week when we hit the highway!
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 01:34 PM
  #20  
EpicCowlick's Avatar
EpicCowlick
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From: North of Salt Lake City
Originally Posted by TexasA&M
I couldn't get the tubing to stay on the fish tape no matter how far I stuck it in there, but cutting a slit and 'hooking' it worked pretty well. No need for tape then.

Also, I thought about putting more tube in the now empty space, but I'm not sure how to cram it in there. I probably won't mess with it at all if in fact my rattle is truly gone.
Interesting idea on the slit. I'll try that the next time. The electrician's tape is the worst part of the project.

You can definitely get even a pretty long piece of tubing back into the molding. Just spray it nicely and it will slide in up to about two feet. We had to do this with about and 8 inch section and it's effortless. It's all about the silicone.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 01:53 PM
  #21  
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TexasA&M
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
Sweet! Good to know. I'll probably do that in the next week or so when I have a few minutes to mess with it. I probably won't even have to remove the whole seal from the door.
 
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