The door sticker says 8/82

 

I did some more research, I think you guys are correct, I found out the 351w version of the zf does have the 1 1/16" input shaft, it's the diesel zf's that have the 1 1/4" input shaft. Learn something new everyday.

 

This is what mine looked like, I drilled out the two dimples for the bolt holes, then used a hole saw on a drill to make the bigger hole.

 

That's a VERY late build date. Are you sure it's an 82? My 83 has a 10/82 build date, I believe. The 460 was definitely built 10/82.

 

I'm sure. I have the original 1982 manual, warranty card, build sheet (in pieces) and the title .

 

cut off usually is august or September for new vehicles. My 90 was built 9/89 . My 89 was built 12/88

 

I completed my hydraulic clutch conversion and figured I'd give yall an update: it was fairly easy and I did NOT change out the pedals. First I measured everything and determined that it would all line up, and that the mechanical clutch arm on the end of the rod coming from the pedal (above the gas pedal) is about 1/2" longer than the same for a factory hydraulic pedal assembly, also that the mechanical angle is about 60 degrees off (it's pushing down at an angle, the hydraulic arm is pushing straight at the firewall.

After measuring I made a template in card board of the back of the master cylinder and traced it onto the firewall. It JUST had enough clearance from the brake booster. More on this in a sec. Cutting the holes was a pain when my 1.5 inch hole saw stopped cutting, so a new saw was in order and finishing the job went quickly. With the two small holes drilled and the big center hole cut it was time to test fit. Good and bad: the holes were fine but the reservoir on the MC hit the side of the brake booster, preventing the MC from going all the way into the firewall. I measured from the barrel of the MC, not the reservoir thinking it would clear.

After lots of head scratching I noticed that the aftermarket MC I had gotten from AutoZone had the mounting flange snap ring clipped on, not cast into the body like the OEM one. I tried turning it and, yes!, it turns. Back in business. I drilled two more holes for the bolts at 12 and 6 o'clock (the stock MC has them at 7 and 1) and it went all the way to the firewall, with the reservoir canted off to one side at a small angle.

Next on the the little arm at the end of the rod that the pedal hangs on. I was initially going to swap it with one from a factory assembly but the arm will only go on the shaft one way (I thought it would be splined, it's not). Plan B: weld another arm onto the existing arm. Measure, measure some more, cut some pieces of steel, dry fit, wonder where all my little 1/16" 6011 rods went, weld it, and presto! It doesn't quite fit.

The arm modification came out perfect, but the push rod going into the MC is about an inch too short. I had measured to the back of the MC, not into the depression in the cylinder (d'oh!), so that's where I was off. I cut the push rod in half, welded a two inch 3/8 iron pipe nipple to one end, drilled it an inch in, and cross bolted it so that the other half of the rod would be pushed by the cross bolt, which would hold it at the correct depth in the pipe nipple for the desired length.

Put it all back together, bleed MC and slave and...it's perfect! The extra 1/2" of length on the pedal arm gives enough additional leverage to make the pedal as easy to push as the clutch in a Honda Civic and the alignment of everything worked out to having the pedal release the clutch just off the floor, which is right where I like it.

Been driving the truck for a couple of weeks now since swapping the ZF in and I'm overall very happy. I was surprised by how low first is (the close ratio ZF in my diesel F350 has a much higher first gear), but other than that it's great.

I didn't take any pictures as I did it, but if I remember the next time I have the camera out I'll get a couple pics.